L'angle du Faubourg

Description:

• Throughout the 1980s and early 1990s, a reservation at the ultra-upscale Taillevent was sought after by diplomats, billionaires, and demi-mondains from around Europe. In 2001, the Taillevent's owner, M. Vrinat, opened a cost-conscious bistro that capitalizes on Taillevent's reputation, but at much lower prices. Lunches here tend to be efficient, relatively quick, and businesslike; dinners are more leisurely, even romantic. The restaurant has an ultramodern dining room, additional seating in the cellar, and a menu that simplifies Taillevent's lofty culinary ideas. The best examples include braised lamb with the juice of black olives; risotto with ingredients that change weekly (during our visit, it was studded with braised radicchio); and a grilled, low-fat version of daurade (bream), served with artichokes and a reduction of mushrooms, appreciated by the many diet-conscious photo-modèles who stop in.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010