Deep in South Philly, this contemporary Italian brasserie stands out among its smaller, older neighborhood predecessors. The menu here ranges from classic to edgy; the wine list is big into California, if you can believe it. Chef-owner Lynne Marie Rinaldi bedecks hanger steak with white bean purée and horseradish gremolata. She wraps scallops in speck and endives, and dresses them with saffron vinaigrette. Come wintertime, there's rabbit cacciatore. In the summer, it's sushi-grade tuna with blood oranges and Gaeta olives. There's track lighting, jazz bands on weekends, and tall windows that open out to the sidewalk during warm weather. Lunch offers scaled-down Italian sandwiches and basic linguine with clams. Those of us who know South Philly know this spot is new school. But we like it anyway.
- © Frommer's 2013
- Recommended 2010