The best Italian restaurant in America? That's what the critics say. Chef-owner Marc Vetri's showplace offers 35 seats on the first floor of a walk-up brownstone. Diners sit elbow to elbow, anticipating each bite of ethereal spinach gnocchi in brown butter, watching as warm olive oil melts a chocolate disc suspended over a scoop of lavender gelato. Vetri takes extra pride in his milk-fed baby goat with soft polenta, his sweetbread dumplings in broth, his tissue-thin antipasto meats -- which he makes a display of slicing on an antique meat slicer at the center of the dining room. It is very hard to get a reservation here, so call ahead. And, for goodness sakes, dress up. And order wine. Sommelier Jeff Benjamin is justly proud of the exceptional wine list.
- © Frommer's 2013
- Very Highly Recommended 2010