Don Tonho em Gaia

Description:

• Set almost directly across the river from its older and more deeply entrenched twin (Don Tonho, with which it shares a common management team), this restaurant occupies what looks like a streamlined, mostly glass-sided railway car -- a very different venue from the original Don Tonho, whose medieval roots are clearly visible within its antique stonework. And whereas the original eatery evokes a 17th-century cellar loaded with archaeological discoveries, this postmodern annex boasts a hip and minimalist European design. Most of the port wines served here derive from the Calém Company, its sponsors, whose headquarters and showrooms lie within about 20 paces. During the midafternoon, when the main menu isn't available, snack and grill items include about a dozen different preparations of beef steak, each with a different garnish, sandwiches, and hamburgers. During mainstream meal hours, menu items include grilled octopus, fried salted cod with potatoes and sautéed vegetables; grilled sea bass, and traditional oven-baked rice with duckmeat and cheese toppings. Desserts might include homemade crème brûlée and chocolate cake.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010