Prague on a Wing and a Prayer

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All homemade, all delicious. Bakeshop Praha will win dessert lovers over with their famous carrot cake, chocolate chip cookies and fabulous brownies. Sourdough bread fans will find a winning selection that includes black olive and multigrain. A variety of sandwiches, soups and savory pies are prepared daily; so while this isn't the cheapest place to stop for lunch; it will be well-worth it.

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Located between Old Town Square and the Vltava River, the Jewish Quarter (Josefov) is what remains of Prague's Jewish ghetto. In the 13th century, Prague's Jewish community was ordered to all move to this one small area. As time passed, the population grew and this part of Prague became extremely overpopulated. In late 19th century, an intense redevelopment was undergone but that doesn't mean the Jewish people were off the hook. They remained in this ghetto until WWII, when the majority of the Czech Republic's Jewish population either died or was forced out of the country by communist leaders. Today, Josefov is an important cultural area. Within its borders lies the best-preserved group of Jewish historical monuments in Europe. This includes six synagogues, including the Old-New Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue, the Jewish Town Hall, the Old Jewish Cemetery, and museums, such as the comparatively new Robert Guttmann Gallery. Most of these sites are controlled by the Jewish Museum in Prague.

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The Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov) is Europe's oldest existing Jewish cemetery. In use from 1439 to 1787, there are more than 12,000 gravestones in the compact area, which houses the remains of over 100,000 people. To manage this, about 12 layers of graves lie under the storied soil. Prominent Jewish leaders and scholars rest here, most notably the creator of the mysterious Golem, Jehuda ben Bezalel, also known as Rabi Löw.

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The Old-New Synagogue (Staronova synagoga) is one of the Jewish Quarter's must-see sights. Completed in 1270, it was one of Prague's first buildings built in the gothic style. This is the synagogue where Franz Kafka had his bar mitzvah. Furthermore, it is said that the body of Golem (created by Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel to protect the Jews) is kept in the attic, which is not open to the public. Because the streets have been raised since the time it was built, the building is low and, in turn, quite dark inside. Even in the darkness, though, one can appreciate the Cathedral-esque interior, which hasn't been altered for more than 700 years.

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Named after the Prague painter Robert Guttmann, this modern venue is a new addition to the Jewish Museum in Prague. It is dedicated primarily to displaying work created by Czech Jewish artists from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, although these aren't strict boundaries. Much of what is exhibited will come from the Museum's significant art collection, which previously had no permanent venue through which to rotate. The Gallery offers the perfect venue for displays of the Jewish Museum's ongoing research and restoration work to be relayed to the public. Promoting young or lesser-known artists is another goal of the Robert Guttmann Gallery. With four to five exhibitions a year, the gallery is dynamic but gives each artist a bit of time for their great work to get noticed. At only 30 CZK for an adult ticket, this is a valuable stop on your tour of the Jewish Museum; it will, like the other parts of the Museum, tell you stories from Prague's rich history but the Robert Guttmann Gallery will speak through beautiful and thought-provoking art instead of tombstones and sad stories.

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This is the site where the Jewish Museum's historical displays continue the story up to the modern day. The exhibits are mostly books, photographs and documents covering the eighteenth century beginnings of Jewish emancipation and enlightenment, the period of assimilation in the nineteenth century, the catastrophe brought about by Hitler and his willing executioners and post-war efforts to revitalize the community. The synagogue itself dates back to 1868. It is a dazzling Moorish-style structure and its two-level, domed hall can be said to be one of the city's most stunning interior spaces.

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The word "dhaba" refers to a small local restaurant along a highway in India. They are usually in gas stations and open 24 hours a day. Sometimes they even have places for a quick nap. Beas Vegetarian Dhaba, located about 100m off Old Town Square, doesn't offer naptime but it does offer cheap and tasty Northern Indian cuisine. It has a small set menu but the best value changes daily. You can choose the "Male" (small) or "Velke" (big) menu. Cafeteria-style, your Czech order-taker will take a big stainless steal platter and spoon several of the day's specials into the individual compartments. For about $4 you can have a fresh, flavorful, and very velke lunch. You'll find pitchers of free water on each table but if you want something a bit more authentic to drink with your meal, a lassi (Indian yogurt drink) will only cost you an extra $0.50.

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Since the 10th century, Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) has been the central square in Prague. At its conception, it was the city's main market place. Then, in the 20th century, buildings began to rise around its rim, bringing with them stories of ghosts and intrigue. Now, the square stirs with cafes, souvenir shops, and art galleries. A mixture of Romanesque and Gothic buildings surround the Old Town Square, the most notable being the Old Town City Hall (on whose exterior the Astronomical Clock can be found), the Church of Our Lady before Tyn, St. Nicholas Church, and Kinsky Palace. Old Town Square's centerpiece is a monument to reformer, martyr, and Czech hero, Jan Hus.

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The monument to Jan Hus stands in the centre of Old Town Square. It was sculpted by Ladislav Saloun and unveiled in July 1915 on the 500th anniversary of Hus' death. Jan Hus (1369-1415) was a Czech theologian and preacher who became Rector of Charles University in 1403. He drew attention to the poor social conditions in the city and criticised the funding of the Papal Wars. He was tried for heresy in 1415 and burnt at the stake, thus becoming a Czech martyr and national hero whose death is celebrated with a national holiday on July 6th each year

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This is the vortex of tourist activity in Prague, whether it be to catch a glimpse of the clock's elusive statuettes, check out one of the town hall's exhibitions or climb the tower. It was in 1338, during the reign of King John of Luxembourg (1310-1346), that work began on the building of a town hall. The oldest parts of this complex of buildings are the Gothic sections and the tower. In May 1945, the Nazis set fire to the building as their last act during the occupation, but most of the damage has been repaired. The clock originated from the beginning of the 15th century and, every hour, the Twelve Apostles (added in 1490) move across just above the clock face, bowing to the crowd on the square. Finally, the clock strikes the hour.

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This fairy tale Gothic church with its twin towers is an Old Town landmark, and its ominous presence has dominated the square for centuries. Most noteworthy on the inside is the tomb of Rudolf II's personal astronomer, Tycho Brahe. When lit up at night, it adds to the "magic Prague" effect the city has on many visitors. Work on the church began in the first half of the 14th century but it was not until the end of the 16th century that it was completed. Its 80-meter towers topped by four small spires were customary during the reign of Emperor Charles IV.

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This punch-drunk heavyweight of the nightlife ring is a definite love-it or hate-it place for Praguers. Inside, DJs spin house, funk, and even the occasional rockabilly tunes to an often packed, truly 'United Nations' assortment of tourists and locals, with plenty of the attendant eyeballing and drink-buying that you'd expect at this kind of place. Bordello red walls (appropriate, this) with giant drink-price chalkboards hanging from them dominate the sightline. A pinball machine in the front and table football in the rear contribute to the near-deafening noise. A bust of Marilyn Monroe smiles approvingly at the shenanigans below. They probably sell more absinthe here than anywhere else in the city!

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You spend hours seeing everything there is to see in Old Town (which is A LOT), and you're hungry but everything you can find is either a tourist trap or some swanky spot. Enter: Giallo Rossa. This very central restaurant serves up good pizzas, pastas, and drinks in a clean, comfortable (although sometimes slightly cramped) environment for shockingly low prices. Giallo Rossa doesn't just offer food, but connections, too. Free with any meal is 30 minutes of Internet use on one of its four upstairs computers. Although this place is small, tables aren't terribly hard to come by. If you can't get a table, though, Giallo Rossa's got you covered. Immediately next to the restaurant is a take-away counter where you can get a slice of pizza for a dollar. This is also a convenient service when you're on your way to a bar and you haven't had dinner yet…

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Extremely popular among students, this tiny Old Town pub (near the Staromestka Metro station) is generally pretty crowded, day or night. Reserve a table in advance or try to wedge your way in at the bar until you can snatch one up as it empties. During the day, you'll find local students and ex-pats (and, sometimes, their professors) having a quick lunch or enjoying interesting conversation over a cup of coffee or a pint of beer. In the evening, crowds are a bit more raucous, what with the live music and well-priced cocktails. A visit to Hany Bany is definitely worth enduring the cramped quarters.

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Bohemia Bagel is Prague's first bagel bakery. Hand-rolled and baked on the premises, the bagels come in a huge variety of flavors from poppy and sesame to sun-dried tomato and basil. Top any one of these with one of their five cream cheeses (the honey, walnut and raisin is a local favorite). If you want something more filling, try any one of a number of fresh sandwiches like the Turkey Club, Marinated Chicken Breast, and the Int'l Rueben to name but a few. They also serve fresh quiche, soups and salads daily. For dessert, dive into moist, homemade brownies or a chocolate/espresso cheese cake. A gourmet coffee should nicely top it all off. The staff here are primarily Czech, but the clientele sometimes seems to be predominantly made up of ex-pats and lost-looking American backpackers.

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A legend in his own lifetime, Alfons Mucha precipitated his rise to world fame in 1894 with his poster of actress Sarah Bernhardt in 'Gismonda' which introduced the art nouveau style. Mucha was born in 1860 in Moravia, now part of the Czech Republic. His family opened this museum in 1998. It contains the artist's famously ornate posters, biscuit and champagne labels, bicycle ads, etc. Each item shows off his use and mastery of intricate detail and pastel colours. There are also other images: painted depictions of age, poverty and war, the artist's sketchbooks showing how he worked out his decorative patterns, and photographs both by and of Mucha. Prague is full of Mucha souvenirs, and the gift shop here is a good place to find some of the more tasteful ones.

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The Franz Kafka Society runs this gallery, which lies within steps of the writer's birthplace, one of his childhood homes and his school; these are all scattered around Staromestske namesti (Old Town Square). There are often exhibitions by either Jewish or Czech-born German artists, as well as those which are linked in some way to Kafka's writings.

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This interesting museum offers visitors a selection of the most famous ghosts and legends in the historical city of Prague. The house dates back to the early 14th century and the museum claims all contents of the exhibition are based entirely on authentic records and legends, not on fairy tales, films, or the organizer's imagination.

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There are modest displays on the life and works of the most famous of Czech composers, with his music ever-playing in the background. The charming upstairs hall is used for concerts during tourist season. The jewel-box-like house itself dates to the early 18th century, when a local nobleman commissioned the great Baroque architect Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer (best known for his two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one in the Old Town and the other in Mala Strana) to design a weekend retreat in what were then the rural outskirts of town.

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This monumental gate (just to the left of the Municipal House) dates from 1475 and was rebuilt at the end of the 19th Century. Renovated in the mid-1990s, the gold fixtures stand out brilliantly against the tower, now darkened to a coal gray from years of exposure to the elements. Originally used for storing armaments and gunpowder and to guard the entrance to the Old Town, it is now one of only two such towers remaining from the original thirteen. Inside is a small historical exhibition that traces the architecture of the building over the centuries. The tower is open from April to October.

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This stunning stone bridge in the Gothic style replaced the Judith Bridge, which collapsed in a flood. Called the Stone Bridge for several centuries after its construction in 1357, Charles Bridge (Karlův most) connects Old Town to Lesser Town. Allegedly, egg yolks mixed into the mortar strengthened the bridge's construction. Perhaps it is those egg yolks that helped Charles Bridge to survive many disastrous floods. At each end of the bridge stands a tower, like bookends for the row of 30 Baroque statues that have lined the bridge since 1657. Today, Charles Bridge is a constantly bustling pedestrian bridge, lively with artists, musicians, and vendors.

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The Strahov Monastery (Strahovsky Klaster) was established by the Premonstratensians, a Catholic religious order of canons founded by St. Norbert. The Romanesque stone monastery was first built in 1140. However, the abbey has met with serious challenges. In 1258, a fire almost completely destroyed the church. Hussites plundered the monastery, followed by a similar event during the Thirty Years' War. Then, in 1742, the French army bombarded the church. In dealing with this devastation, the Strahov Monsatery was reconstructed in the Gothic style then given Baroque qualities in the early 18th century. Finally, in 1989, the monastery was given back to the Premonstratensians. Today, believers still take pilgrimages to this site. On the Strahov Monastery's peaceful and beautiful grounds are an important museum and word-renowned library, rife with rare volumes.

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Here you will find a choice collection of Czech art including Gothic altars and altar paintings and a number of paintings from the time of Rudolf II (the turn of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries). The works here are a reminder of the former affluence of this monastery which stands looking down on Prague Castle.

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With a brewery, restaurant, and patio, just choosing where to sit is something to think about at this monastic pub. Right on the grounds of the exquisite and meditative Strahov Monastery, the restaurant offers decent fare at slightly inflated prices. The microbrewery, where you can order off the extensive food menu, serves some excellent beer. The dark is smooth and rich while the amber is simultaneously deep and crisp. There's also a special, of which only a batch or so is brewed, that, more often than not, is also quite tasty. If you love beer and peaceful beauty, the Strahov Monastery and its brewery should definitely be on your itinerary.

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Near Prague Castle and Strahov Monastary, Maly Buddha (Little Buddha) offers sanctuary from overpriced tourist traps. You walk into a long corridor, where the calming atmosphere already begins taking effect. Low lights, fragrant teas, bamboo, and some gorgeous paint on the walls are overwhelmingly relaxing. Stop here for a pot of tea off of their long list of options or for a healthy, Vietnamese-style meal. The food won't blow in terms of variety but, overall, it's good-for-you food with good flavor for a great price. Taking into account location and ambiance, Maly Buddha offers idyllic refuge from the hustle and bustle of vacation.

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Completed in 1992, the tower reaches a height of 474 metres, although viewing and other facilities are at 100 metres. It provides a panoramic view of Prague with visibility estimated at 100 kilometres. Lifts take visitors to the viewing areas at 4 metres per second and entry to these areas costs 60 Kcs per person. The air-conditioned cabins house a restaurant offering Czech and international cuisine, all of which are open from 10a until 11p daily. The tower is within a 30 minute walk of Wenceslas Square.

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Established in 1680 as plague burial ground for Prague's Jewish Community, the First Israeli Cemetery continued to be valuable when a ban on burials within the city began in 1987. Burials continued there until 1890, when the New Jewish Cemetery came into being. Although some 40,000 people rest here, it fell into a state of disrepair, even before the massive Zizkov TV Tower was built just above it. In 1998, the oldest parts of the cemetery became part of the Jewish Museum in Prague and, after extensive restoration work, it was opened to the public in 2001. Notable rabbis and leading Jewish entrepreneurs were laid to rest in this cemetery in addition to prominent members of the Enlightenment and contemporary Jewish intelligentsia.

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The custom bar is the centerpiece of this bright, modern café just down the street from Palac Akropolis. Pavlac, run by a young Czech photographer, began with a specifically artistic idea: small exhibitions from local artists could be found out back, so you can imagine how local scenesters and artistic ex-pats were drawn to the joint. While there hasn't been much new art up for a while, free wifi and shockingly cheap but thoughtful fare keeps stylish students coming back to spend hours, chatting, working, and even conducting language exchanges. Although the service can be a bit curt, it's efficient and generally servers can conduct business in English, which can prove quite useful. This café is perfect for a filling breakfast, a long lunch, or a cheap and trendy dinner. It's even got a fully stocked bar, making it a good place for a drink on a Friday or Saturday evening before hitting the lively Zizkov bar-scene.

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In a city that isn't heavy on grass, this park offers wide-open spaces, a great view of Prague Castle, a kid's playground, and a massive outdoor pub. Named after a 19th-century Czech politician, Reigrovy Sady was established in the early 1900's as an English-style public garden. There isn't anything particularly English about it, but that's part of its charm. Riegrovy Sady is full of locals on any given day, as long as the weather's nice. Stroll through the greenery and enjoy the view before enjoying a fresh Gambrinus beer and maybe some grilled meat in the pub. There's even a huge screen where sports can often be watched.

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Walking into U Sadu is like walking into a junk shop. Relics from the communist-era litter the place. Fascination with the bizarre decor or the prospect of sitting in the summer patio out front might keep you upstairs, but keep in mind that billiards and access to the summer beer garden await below. At U Sadu, you can enjoy beer after beer without having to hunt down a waitress (even if that also means without a smile from the waitress) and have a hearty Czech meal off their eclectic menu. This completely enjoyable, authentic Czech experience is one you shouldn't pass up, especially if you're visiting the TV Tower just down the street.

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Contemporary cooking in an upscale atmosphere makes Mozaika a great choice for a relaxed yet refined meal. You'll have a choice from American (burger); Italian (fusilli with spicy sausage) or French (duck breast) just to name a few of the unique creations on offer. Competent staff and a fashionable interior add to the enjoyment. Reservations recommended.

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The Prague Castle (Pražský hrad) is the largest castle complex in the world and one of the most important cultural sites in the Czech Republic. Founded in the 9th century as a wooden fortress, it expanded to include a palace, three churches, and a monastery. Extensive renovations took place in the early 20th century and again after the Velvet Revolution. Over the course of its many face-lifts, the castle has taken on Baroque, Gothic, and Neo-Gothic qualities. The complex includes three courtyards, in which you can find such important sites as St. Vitus Cathedral, Mihulka Powder Tower, and St. George's Basilica, among others. The ceremony of the changing of the guard takes place every hour; at noon, some fanfare accompanies this ceremony. The Prague Castle currently houses the Czech President and is the seat of Czech political power.

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A Gothic work of art, St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála sv Vita) is the largest and most significant church in Prague. Commissioned in 1344 by Kind Wenceslas, the cathedral was not actually completed until the second half of the 19th century due to the Hussite War and Thirty Years' War. St. Vitus Cathedral has seen a number of royal coronations. Today, visitors can walk through the Golden Portal (south entrance) and see the Last Judgment Mosaic. Further important parts include the decorated Chapel of St. Wenceslas (Svatováclavská kaple) and the Wallenstein Chapel (Valdstejnská kaple), where the cathedral's architects lie. In front of the high alter stands the Royal Mausoleum. Underneath, the Royal Crypt houses the bodies of some notable kings and queens. Additionally, the Sarcophagus of St. John of Nepomuk has a bit of legend associated with it. Allegedly, the body was exhumed in 1721 and, shockingly, Nepomuk's tongue was still full of hot blood. This was likely a ploy to create a new legendary hero for the Czech people and it accomplished this nicely. Additionally, St. Vitus Cathedral houses the Crown Chamber, the storage room for the Bohemian Coronation Jewels. This area is not accessible... read more

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Conveniently located right between Hradčany and Petrin Park, this quirky café has a less-touristy and less-expensive atmosphere than most restaurants in the area. A modest café, the menu is small but honest, much like the décor. The name, which means "the hanging coffee cup," comes from an unusual tradition: the idea is that affluent clients can sponsor a cup of coffee for the next starving artist who comes in. This support for struggling scribblers and sculptors exemplifies the warm spirit of this comforting café.

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Ride a cable car from street level to the top. Once up there, the Petrin Observation Tower, built in 1891 and modelled on the Eiffel Tower, affords a magnificient view. There is also an observatory and two formal gardens. At street level is a rose garden planted around a children's maze. Through a gate in the ancient wall (the Hunger Wall) lies a lush, quiet garden with a small waterfall and pond with many varieties of flowers. This is possibly one of the most idyllic spots in the city.

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The charming Victorian Funicular is one of Prague's most popular sights, and is run by the public transit authority. It offers a slow, but enjoyable trip to the top of Petrin Hill where there are splendid panoramic views of the city, a replica Eiffel Tower, and a strange Mirror Maze. The funicular, tower and maze date from an exhibition in 1891. Although the small train was out of service for two decades, it was beautifully restored and reopened in 1985.

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The lookout tower (Petřínská rozhledna) on Petřín Hill looks much like a miniature Eiffel Tower. Built in 1891 as a celebration of the Czech lands, it initially did the trick. However, since that time it has become a topic of debate, with many people harboring serious dislike for what seems like an inferior version of Paris' main attraction. Although the exterior is the source of some resentment, the tower's purpose makes it a major tourist attraction. Set atop Petřín Hill, it takes a mere 299 steps to reach the top, where a breathtaking view awaits. It is said that on a clear day, you can see 150 km in any direction. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and offering the most comprehensive bird's eye view of the city, Petřín Observation Tower has earned its spot as one of Prague's top-ranking tourist sites.

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The Mirror Maze is in Petrin Park, near the Petrin Observation Tower. It resembles a medieval castle and has a hall of mirrors inside, to the confusion and delight of children and parents alike. The building also houses a large, realistic painting of the Czechs and Swedes battling for control of Charles Bridge in the mid 1600s.

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Bar Bar's underground locale in Mala Strana is popular with many thanks to its well-priced meals and interesting interior - one that is kept fresh by rotating art exhibits. The drink and menu list are both wide-ranging, making it a perfect stop for lunch, dinner, or simply a drink.

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Once upon a time, a central location, clean water, and cool Romanesque cellars inspired the opening of a classic pub, one that became a fast success. Seven hundred years later, it's still a popular Malá Strana watering hole (in spite of a decade-long closure owing to crumbling foundations). U Glaubiců serves up classic Czech dishes, albeit at a slightly inflated price. The beer, in contrast, is still impressively cheap considering the neighborhood. As a matter of fact, U Glaubiců prides itself on the low low price of a half-liter of Pilsner. This traditional tavern has a long history in this city among politicians, nobility, and the public alike, so it's a good place to visit for a refreshingly inexpensive beer when you're in the very expensive Malá Strana neighborhood.