Margutta

Description:

• Restaurants often have a limited life span so those that have been around for 10 years or more must be doing something right. Remember to reserve a table -- even on a Tuesday night the place was packed. Owner and chef Paolo Neroni greeted us at the door. He is there on most nights to personally oversee the finishing touches on all dishes before they are served. We started off with deliciously sautéed mushrooms, followed by the farfalle al gamberi e zafferano, bowtie pasta with prawns in creamy saffron. For our entree we tried the signature dish, the Pesce alla Neroni (oven-roasted fish with fine herbs and a side of roasted potatoes and tomatoes). What really impressed us was the simplicity of the dishes. No convoluted sauces, long lists of ingredients, or fancy fusion. Most dishes seem to consist of three or four ingredients and just the right amount of herbs to balance out the flavors. The result is a simple and elegant cuisine that brings out the best of all ingredients. The restaurant itself is lovely: cozy and intimately lit and pleasantly decorated with nice linen and fresh flowers. All in all it's easy to see why Margutta is still at the top of its class.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010