Exploring Historic Rio

Description:

Part of the Windsor chain, this hotel has 485 rooms with air-conditioning, telephone, cable TV and fridge. On the roof, there is a swimming pool, sauna, bar and body-building room, from which there is a lovely view of the Guanabara Bay. The hotel also has a piano bar, which is a good option for happy hour. The restaurant is famous for its feijoada, served on Fridays, and also serves a wide variety of international dishes.

Description:

Inaugurated in 1910, the National Library is the largest in Latin America, with a collection of over eight million titles, including many rare books and manuscripts. The building is in neo-classical style, with Corinthian columns, and was designed by Souza Aguiar. The stairway was decorated by some of the most famous names of the 19th century, such as Rodolfo Amoedo, Eliseu Visconti, Henrique Bernadelli and Modesto Brocas.

Description:

This hectic thoroughfare in Centro may bear little resemblance today to the elegant Parisian boulevards it was modelled on, but take time to glance upwards as you dodge the crowds and you'll spot some seriously impressive architecture. The rushing traffic and crush of bodies makes it a little difficult to navigate at times, but try to take a slow stroll down here to appreciate what was once Rio's most celebrated street.

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Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candalaria , or the church of our lady of Candalaria, to give it the English name, is without doubt Rio's most imposing church. The church has a long tradition of hosting events for high society Rio, and many celebrity weddings still take place here, with prestigious guests gathered in the marble interior. The church was built on the site of a chapel founded in 1610 by the Spaniard Antonio Martins Plam, who arrived in Rio after surviving a terrifying sea storm. He built the chapel in homage to Nuestra Senora de Candelaria, the patron saint of is home in the Canary Islands. The Church is modeled on the Basilica da Estrela in Lisbon, and indeed the tiles in the dome are from the Portuguese city. The marble is Italian, from Verona, and the heavy bronze doors were shipped from France. A snobbish attitude among high society meant that all these fine European finishings were shipped across at great expense in the late 18th Century, despite such materials being readily available in Brazil - at much lower prices. The church does not lie in a particularly illustrious location, however, standing on an island amid a sea of traffic, some 500 meters from Praca XV de Novembro. read more

Description:

This beautiful baroque church was built in 1714, and has a peculiar figure-of-eight shaped nave and choir. Dom Pedro II was married here and his daughter, Princesa Isabel, was baptized here also. The main features are the ornate tiles and the altar carved by Mestre Valentim. If you happen to be in Rio on August 15, you can join the festa of Nossa Senhora da Glória do Outeiro, where you will get a taste of Brazilian religious celebrations. There is a small sacred art museum as well.

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The place for anyone looking for a good overview of Brazilian history from Cabral's arrival in 1500 to the present. Housed in the former national armory, the National History Museum features seven permanent exhibits on themes such as early exploration, coffee plantations, and modernism, each of which is illustrated with abundant maps and artifacts. Even better, much of the Portuguese signage comes with often very opinionated English translation. Keep in mind that Brazilian museums haven't bought into the "interactive learning" idea. Instead, displays consist of glass cases and explanatory text. They're carefully curated -- one case shows a mattock used in an 18th-century peasant rebellion juxtaposed with a bright red banner of the modern Sem-Terra movement, a telling evocation of the land distribution problem that has plagued the Brazilian countryside for 400 years and counting. Allow 2 hours (longer if you're a serious history buff).

Our Local Expert Says:

If you don't want a full meal, a patio in front of the restaurant is a great place to sit and enjoy drinks and 'petiscos' - light snacks.

Description:

Right at the heart of Lapa's weekend street party action, Cosmopolita is always busy on Friday and Saturday nights. A combination bar and restaurant with plenty of outdoor tables and chairs, this is a great spot to come and line your stomach before indulging in one of the many varieties of fruit cocktail available on the streets of Lapa. Finger food includes a very good version of the ubiquitous Bolinhos de Bacalhau (fried cod and potato balls), while main dishes tend to feature steak, fish or chicken served with rice, fries and salad.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be startled by locals jumping on and off the tram as it clatters along - an unwritten rule holds that the ride is free for anyone who travels standing on the platforms on the side of the tram.

Description:

The Santa Teresa bonde (streetcar) is the last reminder of what was once Rio's principle form of public transport. But far from being just a historical artifact, the rattling yellow tram is great fun to ride, as it clatters over the iconic Arcos da Lapa and up the winding cobbled streets of Santa Teresa. Locals jump on and off the bonde as it rattles by - there is no charge for those who choose to stand on the running board instead of taking a seat. There are two lines - one to Paulo Mattos, and one to Dois Irmaoes. Both pass tram stops at Largo do Curvelo, where there is regular live samba on Sundays, and Largo do Guimaraes, which is the central point for the neighborhood's many excellent bars, restaurants and shops. Jump off at either point and you will be well-placed for exploring this bucolic neighborhood.

Our Local Expert Says:

By day, Santa Teresa is a great place to pick up some arty knick-knacks and enjoy a bite to eat in one of the many traditional restaurants. By night, the neighborhood becomes a hip hangout for bohemian types of all ages, as the bars, cafes and restaurants become packed with students, musicians and artists.

Description:

Once home to Rio's wealthiest inhabitants, the charming hillside neighborhood of Santa Teresa began to fall into disrepair during the 1960s and 70s, when the emergence of favelas nearby drove the rich towards the city's beaches. Artists and musicians moved into the abandoned mansions, and today Santa Teresa is known as Rio's most bohemian neighborhood. Vintage clothes stores, artists workshops and wonderfully laid-back bars and restaurants make the neighborhood well worth a visit, and the iconic yellow tram that clatters its way along the twisting streets is a joy to ride. Despite its close proximity to the city centre, Santa Teresa has preserved a charming small-town atmosphere, and there is a real community atmosphere to the place. Santa Teresa is well-policed and its reputation as a dangerous area to visit is largely undeserved , however, do take the usual precautions, and take taxis between here and Santa Teresa at night.

Description:

In the middle of the 18 century two sisters began to build the convent, where the chapel of Desterro formerly existed. The nuns belonged to the order of Saint Clara, but in 1777 adopted the severe rules of the Teresianas, and so they started a life of seclusion; only their superior is allowed to communicate through an ingenious device on the wall of the vestibule. One cannot visit the closure, but in the vestibule there is a fine work in Portuguese tiles, depicting Bible scenes. The tiny drawing room is the only place where the nuns can get in touch with the outside world, through a window with iron bars. To reach the church the visitors pass through a rough iron gate and after climbing a slope they arrive in front of the austere building, with its white washed walls and stonework windows, some of them with huge spikes, turned outside out, to show the isolation of the order. Access to the church is strictly limited to moments during the religious services. In t he vestibule there is a reproduction of the superior's room with her few personal belongings.

Our Local Expert Says:

Head here on a Sunday afternoon and you’ll find the place full of cheerful locals making the most of the weekend. The drinking and socialising goes on until the wee small hours, with revellers spilling out onto the street outside. Don’t plan to visit Bar do Mineiro on a Monday, however – it’s closed!

Description:

Bar do Mineiro may look unassuming, but it has been drawing hordes of hungry and thirsty Santa Teresa locals for decades. The Minas Gerais cuisine is good, and the petiscos (light snacks) go very well with the bottled beers that are enthusiastically consumed at this lively spot. The white walls are hung with images of the great and good of Brazil's Tropicalia music scene.

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Linking Rio's port with Centro's bustling shopping streets, this 17th Century archway leads to a wealth of hidden charms. Head through the arch and you'll find the Travessa do Comércio and Beco do Teles - historic alleyways, closed to traffic and flanked by handsome colonial buildings that now house restaurants and bars. With tables and chairs on the flagstones and ornate lanterns hanging overhead, this is one of the most pleasant spots in the city centre to enjoy a drink and a bite to eat. The alleyways are also home to several good book/record stores and small galleries.

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This old church offers everything for the visitor: interesting history, colonial architecture and a richly decorated interior. Located in the city centre, it was built in the early 17th century by Benedictine monks as a place for worship and study. The façade is simple yet pleasant, while the baroque interior abounds with gold and silver, from the wood carvings of the altar to the spiral columns. On Sundays at 10a, a special attraction: the celebration of a Gregorian chant mass.

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Looking rather incongruous on a concrete island in Rio's slightly shabby docklands, Ilha Fiscal is a bright green palace that looks like it has been lifted straight out of a fairy tale. The elaborate neo-gothic construction was built for the less than glamorous purposes of customs verification, but secured its place in history when, in 1889, it was the venue for the Portuguese empire's last ever ball - Brazil was declared a republic just three days later. Beautiful stained glass windows depict Dom Pedro and Princess Isabel, and there are fantastic views over Guanabara Bay from here.

Description:

Part of the Windsor chain, this hotel has 485 rooms with air-conditioning, telephone, cable TV and fridge. On the roof, there is a swimming pool, sauna, bar and body-building room, from which there is a lovely view of the Guanabara Bay. The hotel also has a piano bar, which is a good option for happy hour. The restaurant is famous for its feijoada, served on Fridays, and also serves a wide variety of international dishes.

Description:

Relax with a frothy coffee or tangy fruit cocktail and soak up the opulence at this antique coffee house and restaurant.


The sprawling building is full of historic charm, and was the favored meeting point of carioca high society during Brazil's Belle Epoque.


There's formal dining in the upstairs restaurant, light meals and snacks below and, front of house, a stand-up snack bar selling tasty sweet and savory pastries and expressos to office workers on the go.

Description:

Central Rio might not be the first place you'd think of looking for authentic Swiss cuisine, but at Casa daSuica you'll find quality Swiss dishes that go way beyond fondue. The pork escalope stuffed with emmental cheese and ham, served with potato rosti and buttered peas, is a delicious example of the hearty dishes on offer. But the famous Swiss fondue is far from neglected - indeed, here it comes in 11 varieties, including a seagfood version, a classic emmental and gruyere version, and an unusual version with cheese, pears and mushrooms.

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This cultural centre, Brazil's first neo-classical building, was built in 1820. Designed by French architect Grandjean de Montigny, it started as an indoor market. Today, it is home to different exhibitions reflecting the cultural relationship between France and Brazil, through exhibits that include painting, photography, prints and sculpture. Entry is free. There is also a restaurant on the premises.

Description:

Housed in an elegant 19th-century mansion in a quiet part of Botafogo, the Indian Museum's collection is one of the most important in Latin America, with over 14,000 artifacts, 16,000 papers and books on indigenous topics, and over half a million historical documents on Brazilian Indian tribes. All that sounds a little dry, but the museum is anything but. Instead, its exhibits are some of the most innovative and artistic I have come across in a Brazilian museum, including striking wall-size black-and-white photos adorned with colored feathers and a display on kids' toys where the objects dangle from the ceiling at various heights. The symbolism of the hunt is portrayed in a dark room with just a ray of light illuminating the floor, casting an eerie glow on spears and animal skulls. There are no signs in English, but the exhibits are so vivid they speak for themselves. For kids there is a gallery with (washable) body paint and a large selection of stamps so they can practice adorning themselves as warriors, hunters, chiefs, or shamans. It's a great spot for children and an easy place to spend 2 hours. As a good portion of the displays are outside, avoid going on a rainy day.

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Formerly known as Forte São Teodósio, the current name became official in 1618 when the elaborate stone gate was built. In 1872, the fortress was remodeled and modern weapons were installed among which were 15 cannons. It was later renovated, and only the old gate and some ruins remain of the original structure. Additionally, there is a private beach for use by the military staff. From the fortress there is a superb view of the Guanabara Bay.

Description:

Hidden among the mountains and jungle of Tijuca National Park, this 18th Centutry former mansion home looks somewhat at odds with its jungle surrounds.
Outside, waterfalls and sculptures make eye-catching displays, while inside this colonial building houses some impressive exhibits of clothing, jewelry and other artefacts that once belonged to the wealthy coffee plantation owners that lived in the area.

Our Local Expert Says:

The best time to visit Praca IV de Novembro is Saturday morning, when it hosts a very lively flea market . Early arrival ensures you will have your pick of the best bargains - although take extra care and do not bring too many valuables as the streets of Centro are quieter and less safe at weekends than during the week.

Description:

Just a stone's throw from the ferry terminal that links Rio with the city of Niteroi and the island of Paqueta, Praca 15 de Novembro is a lively square that hosts a bustling flea market each Saturday. With vendors selling everything from antique furniture to vintage vinyl, clothes, and accessories, it's easy to while away an entire Saturday morning browsing the stalls. Midweek, the square is quieter, but the Espaco Cultural da Marinha - a museum dedicated to Rio's seafaring history - is well worth a visit, and there are numerous good lunch spots nearby. - Lucy Bryson

Description:

This small, slightly quirky museum is dedicated to the life of Heitor Villa-Lobos, Brazil's greatest composer, noted for including Brazilian instruments and sounds in his compositions and for using Brazilian folklore in his work. The collection includes musical instruments used by the composer, and some of his personal effects. The English signage is excellent, but even so, expect to spend no more than half an hour. For real fans, the museum library has musical scores, letters, monographs, records, tapes, and movies. The museum website has sound bites of Villa-Lobos's most famous pieces and a comprehensive list of links with resources on Brazilian music.

Description:

Part of the Windsor chain, this hotel has 485 rooms with air-conditioning, telephone, cable TV and fridge. On the roof, there is a swimming pool, sauna, bar and body-building room, from which there is a lovely view of the Guanabara Bay. The hotel also has a piano bar, which is a good option for happy hour. The restaurant is famous for its feijoada, served on Fridays, and also serves a wide variety of international dishes.

Our Local Expert Says:

The bus journey from Rio to Petropolis is a treat in itself - sit on the left hand side of the bus for the best views as you wind through the mountains.

Description:

Petrópolis is a very attractive mountain retreat about 60 kilometers from Rio. Built by German immigrants, it has a distinct European flavor. Petrópolis' main annual event is the Festa do Colono Alemão, which takes place in June. The best way to see Petrópolis' attractions is on foot. It takes about two hours to walk around the city. Buses from Rio to Petrópolis leave daily from 5am every 30 minutes. The trip takes approximately an hour and 30 minutes.

Our Local Expert Says:

Viewing by appointment only. Call ahead to book a visit - your hotel will no doubt be happy to call on your behalf.

Description:

Easily the oldest church in Rio, Convento de Santo Antônio was finished in 1620, and was one of the most powerful religious centres in colonial times. It is known as "Saint Anthony of the rich," as opposed to "Saint Anthony of the poor," in another part of town. It consists of the convent itself and two churches. Inside the church of the Ordem Terceira de São Francisco da Penitência, the wood nave and ceiling frescos depict the glorification of St. Francis. Inside St. Anthony's, the marble and tile sacristy pictures the miracles he performed.

Description:

Nested inside the Paço Imperial, the emperor's first residence in Brazil, this restaurant is known for its sophisticated ambience. The colonial stone floor goes well with the modern paintings that decorate its walls. The menu is also a mixture of tradition and creativity. As starters, a good pick is the pastrami carpaccio with arugula. Suggested entrées: funghi risotto with slices of filet mignon, shredded duck with pepper rosé sauce and hazelnut rice, and berry filet-filet mignon with berry sauce. To finish in style, devil's cake, an unbeatable choice in the menu.

Description:

It may look unassuming, but this pretty whitewashed building was the site of many an important political happening during Portuguese rule. Built in 1973 as the seat of the Portuguese government, the former palace building was the spot in which Portuguese king w Dom João VI established his court in 1808; where his son Dom Pedro V publically refused to return to Portugal in 1822; and where Princess Isabel announced the abolition of slavery in 1888. Today, the cool whitewashed walls house a bistro serving delicious, fresh light lunches and good wines, as well as a small cultural centre that doubles as a book and CD store.

Description:

Part of the Windsor chain, this hotel has 485 rooms with air-conditioning, telephone, cable TV and fridge. On the roof, there is a swimming pool, sauna, bar and body-building room, from which there is a lovely view of the Guanabara Bay. The hotel also has a piano bar, which is a good option for happy hour. The restaurant is famous for its feijoada, served on Fridays, and also serves a wide variety of international dishes.