My First Time in Rio de Janeiro

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Possibly the most famous stretch of sand in the world, Copacabana beach is synonymous with the hedonistic side of Rio – with sun, sea, beautiful bodies and New Year celebrations on the beach. Stretching for around five kilometers (the beach is called Leme at its northern end), Copacabana boasts soft white sand that is crammed with locals in tiny bikinis and shorts. Stalls selling ice-cold beers and caipirinhas line the beachfront, and joggers run along the pavements – famous for their distinctive wave-patterned black and white tiling. Copacabana beach is overlooked by the attractive, jungle covered hill of Morro do Leme, and Sugar Loaf mountain is resplendent in the background. Avenida Atlantica is the busy road running along the beachfront, and across from the sands the road is lined with towering high rise hotels and apartment blocks, as well as any number of places to eat and drink. Be warned, however, that while a visit here is a must, Copacabana is not the best place to sunbathe. The water is too dirty for swimming, the beach is rife with pickpockets, and vendors selling tourist tat are annoyingly relentless in their drive to relieve you of your tourist dollar.

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It may be more than a little touristy, but there´s many a good reason why visitors flock to take the cable car ride up to the top of Sugar Loaf mountain. Rising sheer out of the ocean and towering almost 400 meters above Guanabara Bay, the mountain offers spectacular views from its peak.  A dizzying two-stage cable car ride takes in sweeping vistas of the city, and once you reach the top you´ll be in no doubt as to why Rio de Janeiro is known as the Cidade Maravilhosa (marvelous city).  As condors soar overhead, can  look out over the mountains, dense jungle and those world famous city beaches. Take time to wander around and catch your breath; at the top of Sugar Loaf you will find snack bars, toilets and plenty of prime photo opportunities. At the bottom you will find the small but perfectly formed Praia Vermelha beach, a military barracks (making this perhaps the safest neighborhood in Rio) and a delightful short trail that will take you along a path overhung by trees that are home to plentiful marmosets and exotic birds. Dawn is the perfect time to visit Pão de Açucar to catch the best of the wildlife, before the crowds arrive and drive some of the shyer creatures away.

Our Local Expert Says:

Set off in the early morning for the best views from the Christ statue, as clouds (and crowds) tend to gather in the afternoon. Alternatively, make the trip at sunset for spectacular views as the city below lights up.

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The sweeping vista takes in white sand beaches, urban mountain and jungle, bays dotted with boats, towering skyscrapers and, of course, the magnificent Sugar Loaf mountain. As you stand at the feet of the Christ, you will be able to pick out other city landmarks such as Copacabana beach and the world-famous Maracana football stadium. Standing with outstretched arms, embracing the stunning cityscape below, the statue of Christ the Redeemer (Christo Redentor) is one of the most famous landmarks in the world. The statue stands atop the 700-metre Corcovado (meaning hunchback) mountain, and to come to Rio without visiting 'the big guy' would be simply unthinkable. Indeed, in 2007 the Christo Redentor was named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World by the New Open World Corporation. At 39.6 metres tall and weighing 700 tons, the Christ statue is an impressive sight in itself, but it is the views from his mountain-top home, high amid the trees of the Tjuca Forest, that really make the trip a must do.

Our Local Expert Says:

Take advantage of the incredibly cheap rates for hiring bicycles, and cycle around this pretty little island. Alternatively, take to the waters by hiring a peddle boat at the beachfront. The best time to come is on weekdays, when the island is quiet and prices drop even further.

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Immortalized by Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes in the song "Garota de Ipanema", this is a more fashionable alternative to Copacabana. Besides enjoying the wonderful stretch of beach with great surf and umbrellas to camp under, you can wander through the streets to discover chic boutiques, trendy restaurants and hip cafés. On Sundays, there is a hippie market in Praça General Osório where handcrafts, clothes and souvenirs from Rio can be found.

Our Local Expert Says:

Be sure to visit the Lagoa if you are in Rio over the Christmas season. An enormous Christmas tree is placed in the centre of the lake, and the lights sparkling on the water make this an ideal place to come for a romantic Christmas meal or drink.

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Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (or Lagoa, as it is popularly known) is the perfect place to come to unwind. A vast lagoon surrounded by dramatic mountains, Lagoa attracts fitness fanatics making use of the running track and exercise stations; families taking to the water on peddle boats; couples and groups of friends wining and dining at the many waterside bars and restaurants; and pensive types mulling things over as they stroll around the lake and take in the stunning views. The 7.5 kilometre running/cycling/walking track is a great way to exercise in beautiful surrounds, and the nearby Parque Catacumba, entrance to which is free, boasts walking trails that will lead you through bamboo groves to a lofty viewpoint with stunning vistas across the lake and over to Ipanema beach.

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A vast landscaped park within the heart of central Rio, Parque do Flamengo was designed by none other than Roberto Burle Marxe – Brazil's most celebrated landscaped architect. Stretching along the waterfront from Flamengo to Gloria, the park encompasses green open, giant palms: green open spaces; sports courts; and running, cycling and walking tracks. Interestingly, the area was once submerged below the water of Guanabara Bay before town planners levelled two hills in the city centre – the resulting rubble was shifted into the water and created the space where Parque do Flamengo stands today. For this reason, the parque is known locally as 'Aterro' – landfill.

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The beaches of Rio's Zona Sul (south zone) stretch for miles, and walking the length of these famous stretches of sand is a great way to catch some sun while taking some exercise and enjoying fantastic views. Walking and cycling tracks make seaside strolls a safe activity any day of the week, but the best time for a walk by the beach is Sunday, when the roads are closed to traffic from Leblon right down to the far end of Copacabana. Joggers, cyclers, roller-bladers and power walkers all head here on Sundays to take in some hard core exercise, but a less strenuous option is just to walk along at your own pace, stopping now and then for a cooling agua de coco (chilled coconut water) at one of the many beachside kiosks.

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The Niterói Contemporary Art Museum presents a frequently changing selection of the best of Brazilian contemporary art, focusing on sculpture, textiles and painting. Designed by Oscar Niemeyer with the assistance of structural engineer Bruno Contarini, who had worked with Niemeyer on earlier projects, the MAC-Niterói is 16 meters high; its cupola has a diameter of 50 meters with three floors. The museum projects itself over Boa Viagem ("Bon Voyage," "Good Journey"), the 817-square meter reflecting pool that surrounds the cylindrical base "like a flower," in the words of Niemeyer. A wide access slope leads to a Hall of Expositions, which has a capacity for sixty people. Two doors lead to the viewing gallery, through which can be seen the Guanabara Bay, Rio de Janeiro, and Sugarloaf Mountain. The saucer-shaped modernist structure, which has been likened to a UFO, is set on a cliffside, at the bottom of which is a beach. Given the alien quality of Rio's landscape, it seems appropriate that the form of the museum should most obviously suggest a flying saucer, seemingly poised for take-off on the edge of the water. Cantilevered out from a stout central stalk, the saucer-like volume of the building has an unmistakable iconic presence, its seductive, sci-fi geometry creating a new landmark for the district.

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Built in the 1750, the iconic Arcos Da Lapa (or 'Lapa Arches') were historically used to ship water from the hills to downtown Rio. Today, the rattling yellow Santa Teresa bonde (tram) clatters over the arches before climbing up the steep cobbled streets. After dark, hordes of locals and foreign visitors gather beneath the Arcos da Lapa to meet, mingle and sample the delicious fruit cocktails offered by the many street vendors.

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For fans of 'futebol' (football/soccer), a trip to the legendary Maracanã stadium is every bit as vital as visiting the Christ statue or taking the cable car up the Sugar Loaf. Football is often described as 'the beautiful game', and nowhere is this description more apt than in Brazil. The national side has won the football world cup five times, and is pretty much every non-Brazilian's favorite foreign team. While the big names may have left for high profile, high wages teams in Europe, locally played Brazilian football is still a joy to behold, largely due to the fantastic festival atmosphere. Samba drumming, singing, dancing, firecrackers and enormous flags liven up even the most humdrum of games, and if you are lucky enough to catch a local derby or important cup match then the atmosphere will be even more electric.

Our Local Expert Says:

Arrive early or book in advance to grab a table on the outside terrace and enjoy terrific views over Santa Teresa

Description:

The antique street car that rattles through Rio's Santa Teresa district passes right in front of this bar/restaurant serving terrific pan-Brazilian dishes. Much use is made of ingredients native to the country - most notably Amazonia. If piranha soup sounds a little too adventurous, try the mixed entree which combines tasty nibbles such as fresh palm heart and acai (Amazonian berry) chutney. Alongside excellent fish, seafood and meat dishes are some good vegetarian options - try the mixed root vegetables topped with abobora (similar to pumpkin) and melted cheese. Chef Natacha Fink has picked up a string of awards for her work here, and it's not hard to see why. The wine list is also decent, and the caipirinhas made with passionfruit are delicious.

Our Local Expert Says:

Amarelinho is one of the best spots in the city to see cariocas enjoying 'Happy Hour' - the term given to post-work drinks

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Amarelinho sits right by the impressive Theatro Municipal on the flagstones of Cinelandia, a bustling square at the heart of downtown Rio. Always packed at lunchtimes and after work, the bar serves well-kept draught beer and simple but very good Brazilian dishes. Set meals of meat, fish or chicken with rice, black beans and farofa (toasted manioc flour) are very popular, as are the pizzas. Amarelinho's prime location also enjoys a direct view of the Biblioteca Nacional, making this a great place to recharge your batteries during a tour of Centro.

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Don't be put off by the name, which means "big pig" in Portuguese, this legendary churrascaria caters to a well-heeled crowd. The decor is sophisticated, the ambience is relaxed, and the food is of the very highest quality. Waiters brandishing spits bring cuts of meat to your table until you can eat no more, while a buffet invites you to try excellent salads, sushi, pasta dishes, cheeses, breads, olives and countless other treats.

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Relax with a frothy coffee or tangy fruit cocktail and soak up the opulence at this antique coffee house and restaurant.


The sprawling building is full of historic charm, and was the favored meeting point of carioca high society during Brazil's Belle Epoque.


There's formal dining in the upstairs restaurant, light meals and snacks below and, front of house, a stand-up snack bar selling tasty sweet and savory pastries and expressos to office workers on the go.

Our Local Expert Says:

Finish your meal with a delicious, creamy coconut or passionfruit 'batida', condensed milk and cachaca - that famous Brazilian firewater. It might taste like a dessert, but it packs a punch!

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If you're looking for good food that will fill you up without blowing the budget, Bar do Arnaudo is the place to come. This traditional, homely restaurant (no, it's not actually a bar…) serves delicious food from the North East of Brazil in absolutely enormous portions. The set meals for one easily serve two or even three – take your pick from sundried meat or queijo coalho (a hard white cheese, similar to halloumi, served grilled), with brown beans, yucca, rice and pumpkin farofa (toasted seasoned yucca flour). Wash it down with a large, ice cold bottle of beer to share, or - even better – a delicious coconut or passionfruit batida. These creamy drinks are made with fruit, condensed milk and cachaca, the sugar cane rum that is Brazil's national drink. Beware, however, that although they may taste innocent they really pack a punch!

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Famously the spot where Vinicius de Moraes and Tom Jobim penned the bossa nova classic 'Girl from Ipanema', this Ipanema bar/restaurant is always busy, despite lacklustre service and less-than-inspired meals. Prices are reasonable given the venue's historic status and enviable Ipanema location, but the food, from pizzas to bar snacks such as codfish balls, tend to be bland and/or greasy. Come here by all means if you want to sit in the same spot where the famous songwriters watched the beach beauty idle by each day, and so inspiring the song, but don't expect anything so inspired from the kitchen. Occasional live music performances, held in a cosy space above the restaurant, are usually lively and good fun.

Our Local Expert Says:

Try the aged cachacas from Minas Gerais - sweet with a slightly honeyed taste. For an authentic Minas experience, share a bottle with friends and drink neat in shots. And don't plan anything energetic for the next day…

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At the Academia da Cachaca you'll learn how to eat, drink and be merry ... like the Brazilians. With over 500 concoctions to choose from, you'll never tire of visiting this up-scale yet casual place. Most drinks are made from the traditional Brazilian spirit of Cachaca. The food, which comprises of North East Brazilian cuisine, is also quite an attraction. Enjoy a Manioc Croquette with Cream Cheese while you sip on a Passion-Fruit Caipirinha (made with real fruit).

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Great prices, good food and late opening hours have combined to make Simplesmente a firm favorite among Santa Teresa's many night owls. This laid-back bar is open until 4:30am every night except Sunday, and serves bottled beers and tasty bar snacks to hordes of locals and tourists alike. The lighting is low, the ambiance is friendly, and snacks such as sun-dried beef with fried aipim keep energy levels from flagging. During the summer months (December-March), samba bands play inside the bar, and the tables and chairs are cleared to create a dance floor that gets absolutely packed after 2am.

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If youre looking for the best weekend nightlife action there's only one place to head - Lapa. And for those on a budget, the good news is that you don't even need to pay to enter a club in order to party until dawn. From Thursday to Saturday (Fridays are busiest), the area around the Lapa arches fills up with partiers, live music, and countless vendors selling food and drink - be sure to try some of the mouthwatering cocktails made with vodka and mango or strawberry. The crowd is mainly young and dress is very relaxed. Live music can crop up anywhere but is most often found on the square next to the famous arches - take care here and in other crowded paces as the area is rife with pickpockets.

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This lively samba club is housed in a beautiful old building that doubles as a storage warehouse for props and antiques used by the city's film industry. As a result, you will find yourself shaking your stuff to a backdrop of mannequins, antique furniture and other relics from the past. Spread over three floors, revelers can chose to enjoy a meal from the restaurant, or just strut their stuff on the dance floor among bohemian locals and tourists alike. The club frequently hosts excellent live music, from samba to forro – check the website for listings. Always packed on weekends.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be startled by locals jumping on and off the tram as it clatters along - an unwritten rule holds that the ride is free for anyone who travels standing on the platforms on the side of the tram.

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The Santa Teresa bonde (streetcar) is the last reminder of what was once Rio's principle form of public transport. But far from being just a historical artifact, the rattling yellow tram is great fun to ride, as it clatters over the iconic Arcos da Lapa and up the winding cobbled streets of Santa Teresa. Locals jump on and off the bonde as it rattles by – there is no charge for those who choose to stand on the running board instead of taking a seat. There are two lines – one to Paulo Mattos, and one to Dois Irmaoes. Both pass tram stops at Largo do Curvelo, where there is regular live samba on Sundays, and Largo do Guimaraes, which is the central point for the neighborhood's many excellent bars, restaurants and shops. Jump off at either point and you will be well-placed for exploring this bucolic neighborhood.

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This hectic thoroughfare in Centro may bear little resemblance today to the elegant Parisian boulevards it was modelled on, but take time to glance upwards as you dodge the crowds and you'll spot some seriously impressive architecture. The rushing traffic and crush of bodies makes it a little difficult to navigate at times, but try to take a slow stroll down here to appreciate what was once Rio's most celebrated street.

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The first residential street to be built in Rio de Janeiro, Rua do Lavradio is a long cobbled road flanked by tall and handsome colonial buildings. Many of these have been transformed into bars and restaurants, while others are now, fittingly, antiques stores. It is in Rua do Lavradio that you will find the popular Feira do Rio Antigo, a bustling clothes, arts, and antique fair held on the first Saturday of each month. The bars and restaurants all have pavement tables and chairs, making this a wonderful spot to enjoy a cold drink and a bite to eat as you watch the world go by. - Lucy Bryson

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While tourists flock to the weekly 'Hippie Fair' held in Ipanema each Sunday, shopaholics in the know hold out for the Feira do Rio Antigo, which takes place in the heart of Rio's historic centre on the first Saturday of every month. Alongside antiques of every sort, you'll find vintage and new clothes, bags and jewelery, at colorful stalls that stretch the length and breadth of the historic streets. Live samba fills the air, and weary shoppers can take the weight off their feet by ordering a drink and a bite to eat at one of the many excellent pavement bars and restaurants that line the streets.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you want to take photos here consider visiting as part of an organized tour. Lapa is not the safest part of Rio and lone tourists with cameras can be a target for thieves. Ask around about tours that take in the 'Lapa Steps'.

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The steps between Lapa and Santa Teresa have been turned into an ongoing work of art by eccentric Chilean artist Selarón. The artist has used painted and decorated tiles from across the world to create something truly unique - musicians such as Snoop Dogg and Pharell have shot promotional videos here.

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You can find out about Brazil's cultural inheritance and have a lot of fun at the same time! This Brazilian version of American theme parks offers the best in thrilling and fun rides for grown-ups and kids in a setting that celebrates Brazil's ethnic and cultural aspects in its architecture and landscaping. Enjoy the action-packed roller-coasters and water rides, scream from the top of your lungs as you drop from the 200ft high Cabhum or have a go at the 180 degrees IMAX simulator. The park also offers a restaurant, ice-cream parlor, snack bars and a few shops.