Rio - Beyond the Beaches

Description:

The oldest hotel in Rio, Hotel Gloria may not quite measure up to Copacabana Palace in the glamour stakes, but it remains jam-packed with historic charm. With a glistening white façade and antique furnishings, the hotel is a great bet for anyone who wants to be close to Centro as well as the beaches (a handy Metro stop puts Copacabana beach within a few minutes' reach). The hotel also boasts gorgeous tropical gardens and two enormous outdoor swimming pools, and there are beautiful views out across Parque do Flamengo and Guanabara Bay.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be startled by locals jumping on and off the tram as it clatters along - an unwritten rule holds that the ride is free for anyone who travels standing on the platforms on the side of the tram.

Description:

The Santa Teresa bonde (streetcar) is the last reminder of what was once Rio's principle form of public transport. But far from being just a historical artifact, the rattling yellow tram is great fun to ride, as it clatters over the iconic Arcos da Lapa and up the winding cobbled streets of Santa Teresa. Locals jump on and off the bonde as it rattles by - there is no charge for those who choose to stand on the running board instead of taking a seat. There are two lines - one to Paulo Mattos, and one to Dois Irmaoes. Both pass tram stops at Largo do Curvelo, where there is regular live samba on Sundays, and Largo do Guimaraes, which is the central point for the neighborhood's many excellent bars, restaurants and shops. Jump off at either point and you will be well-placed for exploring this bucolic neighborhood.

Our Local Expert Says:

By day, Santa Teresa is a great place to pick up some arty knick-knacks and enjoy a bite to eat in one of the many traditional restaurants. By night, the neighborhood becomes a hip hangout for bohemian types of all ages, as the bars, cafes and restaurants become packed with students, musicians and artists.

Description:

Once home to Rio's wealthiest inhabitants, the charming hillside neighborhood of Santa Teresa began to fall into disrepair during the 1960s and 70s, when the emergence of favelas nearby drove the rich towards the city's beaches. Artists and musicians moved into the abandoned mansions, and today Santa Teresa is known as Rio's most bohemian neighborhood. Vintage clothes stores, artists workshops and wonderfully laid-back bars and restaurants make the neighborhood well worth a visit, and the iconic yellow tram that clatters its way along the twisting streets is a joy to ride. Despite its close proximity to the city centre, Santa Teresa has preserved a charming small-town atmosphere, and there is a real community atmosphere to the place. Santa Teresa is well-policed and its reputation as a dangerous area to visit is largely undeserved , however, do take the usual precautions, and take taxis between here and Santa Teresa at night.

Our Local Expert Says:

Finish your meal with a delicious, creamy coconut or passionfruit 'batida', condensed milk and cachaca - that famous Brazilian firewater. It might taste like a dessert, but it packs a punch!

Description:

If you're looking for good food that will fill you up without blowing the budget, Bar do Arnaudo is the place to come. This traditional, homely restaurant (no, it's not actually a bar…) serves delicious food from the North East of Brazil in absolutely enormous portions. The set meals for one easily serve two or even three - take your pick from sundried meat or queijo coalho (a hard white cheese, similar to halloumi, served grilled), with brown beans, yucca, rice and pumpkin farofa (toasted seasoned yucca flour). Wash it down with a large, ice cold bottle of beer to share, or - even better - a delicious coconut or passionfruit batida. These creamy drinks are made with fruit, condensed milk and cachaca, the sugar cane rum that is Brazil's national drink. Beware, however, that although they may taste innocent they really pack a punch!

Our Local Expert Says:

If you want to take photos here consider visiting as part of an organized tour. Lapa is not the safest part of Rio and lone tourists with cameras can be a target for thieves. Ask around about tours that take in the 'Lapa Steps'.

Description:

The steps between Lapa and Santa Teresa have been turned into an ongoing work of art by eccentric Chilean artist Selarón. The artist has used painted and decorated tiles from across the world to create something truly unique - musicians such as Snoop Dogg and Pharell have shot promotional videos here.

Description:

On a leafy side street in bohemian Santa Teresa, Museu Chácara do Céu is a former mansion house that is now home to an impressive collection of art works - including pieces by Picasso, Monet and Degas. There are also plenty of pieces from Brazilian artists, and the museum itself is located in beautiful shady gardens that provide a welcome retreat from the beating sun. Entrance to the park is R$5.

Description:

Looking rather incongruous on a concrete island in Rio's slightly shabby docklands, Ilha Fiscal is a bright green palace that looks like it has been lifted straight out of a fairy tale. The elaborate neo-gothic construction was built for the less than glamorous purposes of customs verification, but secured its place in history when, in 1889, it was the venue for the Portuguese empire's last ever ball - Brazil was declared a republic just three days later. Beautiful stained glass windows depict Dom Pedro and Princess Isabel, and there are fantastic views over Guanabara Bay from here.

Description:

It may look unassuming, but this pretty whitewashed building was the site of many an important political happening during Portuguese rule. Built in 1973 as the seat of the Portuguese government, the former palace building was the spot in which Portuguese king w Dom João VI established his court in 1808; where his son Dom Pedro V publically refused to return to Portugal in 1822; and where Princess Isabel announced the abolition of slavery in 1888. Today, the cool whitewashed walls house a bistro serving delicious, fresh light lunches and good wines, as well as a small cultural centre that doubles as a book and CD store.

Description:

Any bar named after the controversial American writer Charles Bukowski is bound to be a little different from the norm, and this kooky Botafogo hangout is no run of the mill bar. In a converted colonial building, it is not unusual to be served a shisha pipe by a dwarf, and the DJs spin some interesting tracks too. Expect the unexpected.

Our Local Expert Says:

The best time to visit Praca IV de Novembro is Saturday morning, when it hosts a very lively flea market . Early arrival ensures you will have your pick of the best bargains - although take extra care and do not bring too many valuables as the streets of Centro are quieter and less safe at weekends than during the week.

Description:

Just a stone's throw from the ferry terminal that links Rio with the city of Niteroi and the island of Paqueta, Praca 15 de Novembro is a lively square that hosts a bustling flea market each Saturday. With vendors selling everything from antique furniture to vintage vinyl, clothes, and accessories, it's easy to while away an entire Saturday morning browsing the stalls. Midweek, the square is quieter, but the Espaco Cultural da Marinha - a museum dedicated to Rio's seafaring history - is well worth a visit, and there are numerous good lunch spots nearby. - Lucy Bryson

Description:

Parque Nacional de Tijuca is the largest area of urban rainforest in the world, and is testament to the huge success of a reforestation scheme from the Brazilian government. When the Portuguese arrived, the area which is now the city of Rio was covered by dense green tropical forest. As the city grew the trees were felled and the timber used in construction or for charcoal. However, if you look up from the streets of Zona Sul today, the mountains running southwest from the Corcovado are still covered with exuberant forest, the periphery of the Parque Nacional da Tijuca which covers an area of approximately 120 square kilometres, and is maintained by Brazil's State Institute of Forestry (IBDF). In the seventeenth century the forests of Tijuca were cut down for their valuable hardwood and the trees replaced by sugar cane and, later, coffee plantations and small-scale agriculture. In the early nineteenth century the city authorities became alarmed by a shortage of pure water and by landslides from the Tijuca slopes. Eventually it was decided that a concerted effort was needed to restore Rio's watershed and, in 1857, a reforestation project was initiated: by 1870 over 100,000 trees had... read more

Our Local Expert Says:

All the furnishings at Miam Miam are sourced from local antiques store Hully Gully, and all are for sale - the décor is changed every couple of months to keep things fresh.

Description:

Housed in a tiny white colonial building in Botafogo, Miam Miam is easy to miss. Once inside, however, the kitsch décor can't fail to catch your attention. But while the authentic 1940s, 50s and 60s furnishings impress, it's the food that really impresses. The restaurant, which opened in 2007, has won a string of awards for its contemporary take on 'comfort food,' and the drinks are award-winning. Try the Caipivodka with pepper vodka, lime, pineapple and mint to see why. Botafogo might not be a tourist hotspot, but it boasts good backpacker hostels and some of Rio's most interesting drinking and dining options - Miam Miam being a great example of this.

Description:

A dramatically different park that has featured in videos for Snoop Dogg and Pharell Williams as well as the Black-Eyed Peas, Parque Lage sits right next door to Rio's famous Botanical Gardens, but remains something of a secret to tourists. The park is set in teh grounds of a beautiful 1920s mansion, now a coffee house and art school, and the grounds are dotted with little caves that are filled with tropical fish tanks. Teh cafe is a beautiful spot to enjoy a leisurely breakfast or brunch, or make like local families and bring along a cool box filled with picnic goodies and wine. For the more adventurous, trails run into the Tijuca National Park from here.

Description:

The oldest hotel in Rio, Hotel Gloria may not quite measure up to Copacabana Palace in the glamour stakes, but it remains jam-packed with historic charm. With a glistening white façade and antique furnishings, the hotel is a great bet for anyone who wants to be close to Centro as well as the beaches (a handy Metro stop puts Copacabana beach within a few minutes' reach). The hotel also boasts gorgeous tropical gardens and two enormous outdoor swimming pools, and there are beautiful views out across Parque do Flamengo and Guanabara Bay.