Shopping spree!

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be startled by locals jumping on and off the tram as it clatters along - an unwritten rule holds that the ride is free for anyone who travels standing on the platforms on the side of the tram.

Description:

The Santa Teresa bonde (streetcar) is the last reminder of what was once Rio's principle form of public transport. But far from being just a historical artifact, the rattling yellow tram is great fun to ride, as it clatters over the iconic Arcos da Lapa and up the winding cobbled streets of Santa Teresa. Locals jump on and off the bonde as it rattles by - there is no charge for those who choose to stand on the running board instead of taking a seat. There are two lines - one to Paulo Mattos, and one to Dois Irmaoes. Both pass tram stops at Largo do Curvelo, where there is regular live samba on Sundays, and Largo do Guimaraes, which is the central point for the neighborhood's many excellent bars, restaurants and shops. Jump off at either point and you will be well-placed for exploring this bucolic neighborhood.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you want to take photos here consider visiting as part of an organized tour. Lapa is not the safest part of Rio and lone tourists with cameras can be a target for thieves. Ask around about tours that take in the 'Lapa Steps'.

Description:

The steps between Lapa and Santa Teresa have been turned into an ongoing work of art by eccentric Chilean artist Selarón. The artist has used painted and decorated tiles from across the world to create something truly unique - musicians such as Snoop Dogg and Pharell have shot promotional videos here.

Our Local Expert Says:

You have a choice of eating in or take away ('para viagem'), and there's a great health food store tagged onto the side of this restaurant.

Description:

New Natural is a fantastic health food buffet. It's largely veggie-friendly, with a lot of soy dishes, although chicken and fish do make an appearance. The nourishing and delicious soups, pastries and hot dishes are popular with Ipanema's health-conscious beachgoers, as well as with travelers staying at 'Hostel Alley', the strip of backpacker accommodation next door to the restaurant.

Description:

Baronetti is the place to be if you want to mingle with Brazil's most beautiful. Exclusive venue for eating, dancing and posing. Be warned - cover and drinks are expensive.

Description:

This is the place to come if you want expert and caring treatment for you feet. Not only are the latest scientific methods on hand, including shiatsu and reflexology, to make your tootsies feel better, but you also will find a very relaxed environment where the staff is professional and pleasant. Locations can be found in all the major shopping centres in Rio, and the city center branch also offers full body massage treatments. Call ahead for an appointment.

Our Local Expert Says:

By day, Santa Teresa is a great place to pick up some arty knick-knacks and enjoy a bite to eat in one of the many traditional restaurants. By night, the neighborhood becomes a hip hangout for bohemian types of all ages, as the bars, cafes and restaurants become packed with students, musicians and artists.

Description:

Once home to Rio's wealthiest inhabitants, the charming hillside neighborhood of Santa Teresa began to fall into disrepair during the 1960s and 70s, when the emergence of favelas nearby drove the rich towards the city's beaches. Artists and musicians moved into the abandoned mansions, and today Santa Teresa is known as Rio's most bohemian neighborhood. Vintage clothes stores, artists workshops and wonderfully laid-back bars and restaurants make the neighborhood well worth a visit, and the iconic yellow tram that clatters its way along the twisting streets is a joy to ride. Despite its close proximity to the city centre, Santa Teresa has preserved a charming small-town atmosphere, and there is a real community atmosphere to the place. Santa Teresa is well-policed and its reputation as a dangerous area to visit is largely undeserved , however, do take the usual precautions, and take taxis between here and Santa Teresa at night.

Description:

Housed in huge, gorgeous old building filled with antiques, Rio Scenarium has been named as one of the best bars in the world by the UK's Guardian newspaper. Live samba bands play onstage while locals strut their impressive stuff on the dancefloor. Good food is also served.

Description:

Devassa is a chain of bars in Rio, brewing its own beers which are served to thirsty customers in a laid-back, bistro style setting. Tasty food completes the experience.

Our Local Expert Says:

Arrive early or book in advance to grab a table on the outside terrace and enjoy terrific views over Santa Teresa

Description:

The antique street car that rattles through Rio's Santa Teresa district passes right in front of this bar/restaurant serving terrific pan-Brazilian dishes. Much use is made of ingredients native to the country - most notably Amazonia. If piranha soup sounds a little too adventurous, try the mixed entree which combines tasty nibbles such as fresh palm heart and acai (Amazonian berry) chutney. Alongside excellent fish, seafood and meat dishes are some good vegetarian options - try the mixed root vegetables topped with abobora (similar to pumpkin) and melted cheese. Chef Natacha Fink has picked up a string of awards for her work here, and it's not hard to see why. The wine list is also decent, and the caipirinhas made with passionfruit are delicious.

Description:

Shopaholics simply can't afford to miss this - the famous market held every Sunday in Ipanema. This is a large square just a couple of streets back from the beach, opposite the Zona Sul supermarket. Otherwise known as Feira de Arte de Ipanema, the fair is not just for hippies - the sprawling market sells everything from gorgeous handmade jewelry and pretty dresses, to paintings, figurines, and numerous arty knick knacks. You can also pick up the more obvious tourist stuff here - replica football shirts, baseball caps etc, and watch out for 'Pelé' - the guy in a Brazil football kit who manages to keep the ball up, on his head, feet, chest etc, for hours at a time, all the while blowing a referee's whistle! You'll need to set aside a good couple of hours to see everything, there are so many stalls to browse around and so many tempting wares on offer.

Our Local Expert Says:

Beach towels and umbrellas can be borrowed from the hotel - just ask at the front desk.

Description:

This dinky little hotel has no views to speak of, but with a location just a few minutes' walk from the beach, it's unlikely you'll be spending too much time in your hotel room. The hotel was given a top-to-to facelift in 2007 and is now tastefully, if simply furnished. Close to the bars, restaurants and shops of Leblon, Ipanema Inn is one of the most affordable hotel options in the area. A good breakfast is served each day, there's public internet access, and a shop attached to the hotel sells colourful handicrafts that make excellent gifts.