Rome Transportation

Getting There

Air

Rome is served by two airports, Fiumicino and Ciampino. Fiumicino is the main international airport while Ciampino to the south is a bit closer to the city center and often served by budget airlines.

Fiumicino (a.k.a. Leonardo da Vinci) International Airport (FCO)
+39 06 6567 1349
http://www.adr.it

The Rome Fiumicino (a.k.a. Leonardo da Vinci) International Airport is Rome's major airport, located about 35 kilometers (22 miles) to the west of the city just off of the coast. It consists of three terminals (A, B, C) each possessing ample shopping opportunities (including duty free), numerous restaurants, info booths, currency exchange center and ATMs. Abundant short term parking is located outside each terminal.

Ciampino (a.k.a. G B Pastine) Airport (CIA)
+39 06 65 951
http://www.adr.it

Rome's smaller airport, Ciampino, is located a little closer to the city center, about 15 kilometers (nine miles) to the southeast. Most intra-European flights land here, as do several budget European airlines such as Ryan Air and Easy Jet.

Airlines serving Fiumicino or Ciampino include:

Air Berlin (+49 1805 73 78 00 / http://www.airberlin.com/)
Air Canada (+1 888 247 2262 / http://www.aircanada.com/)
Air France (+1 800 237 2747 / http://www.airfrance.com/)
British Airways (+1 800 247 9297 / http://www.british-airways.com/)
Condor (+1 800 524 6975 / http://www7.condor.com/)
Continental (+1 800 523 3273 / http://www.flycontinental.com/)
Delta (+1 800 221 1212 / http://www.delta-air.com)
Easy Jet (+33 8 25 08 25 08 / http://www.easyjet.com/)
Hapag-Lloyd Express (+180 509 3 509 / http://www.hlx.com/)
Japanese Airlines (+1 800 525 3663 / http://www.japanair.com/)
Lufthansa (+1 800 645 3880 / http://cms.lufthansa.com/)
United Airlines (+1 800 241 6522 / http://www.ual.com/)
U.S. Airways (+1 800 428 4322 / http://www.usairways.com/)
Virgin Express (+0821 2230 202 / http://www.virgin-express.com/)

From the Airport

Fiumicino/Leonardo Da Vinci International Airport

Train: One of the easiest ways to reach the city from the airport is by train, as long as you are not lugging along serious baggage. Follow signs for "Stazione FS/Railway Station," located on the second floor. The Leonardo Express runs directly from the airport to the main rail terminal, Roma Termini. Trains depart every 30 minutes from 6:35a-11:35p and the trip takes about half an hour. (From Termini to the airport, trains run every half hour between 5:50a-10:50p). Tickets are EUR14 and can be purchased either from a window or automated machines; (just be sure to validate at one of the validation machines located on the platforms before you board). Children under 12 accompanied by an adult ride free. The other rail option, the Metropolitan FM1 Train, is cheaper at around EUR5 and more frequent (leaves every 15 minutes during the week and Saturdays, every 30 minutes on Sundays), but slogs along, stopping often, including a pause at the Tiburtina Station.

Bus: Terravison (http://www.terravision.eu/rome_fiumicino.html) operates a shuttle service to Roma Termini, with several stops between. The trip takes around 70 minutes, tickets are EUR7 and require a valid boarding pass or ticket from one of their airlines (see website for details).

Taxi: Rome's official taxis are white with black identity codes on the door. A ride from the airport to the city center should cost around EUR40, with additional fees for large pieces of luggage. There are taxi lines at each of the arrival areas of the airport and it is best to wait for an official taxi rather than be persuaded out of line by non-licensed drivers.

Rome Ciampino

Bus: SITbusshuttle (+39 06 591 7844 / http://www.sitbusshuttle.it/) has service to Roma Termini and Tiburtina Railway stations. A one way fare is EUR6, and tickets can be purchased on board.

The COTRAL bus costs EUR1 (http://www.cotralspa.it/) and operates bus service between the airport and the Anagnina metro stop, located on line A.

Terravision (http://www.terravision.eu/rome_ciampino.html) also operates a frequent shuttle service to Roma Termini, but requires a valid boarding pass from one of the airlines they work with, (see website for detailed list), as well as a Terravision voucher. Vouchers can be purchased for EUR8 (one-way) at the Terravission office on Via Marsala at Roma Termini, or at the airport. They can also be purchased at various airports in other parts of Europe, including London Stansted and Frankfurt Hahn airports. Taxi: The taxi line is located outside the arrivals hall. From Ciampino to the city center should cost around EUR35. Rome's official taxis are white with an identification number on the door, and it is advisable to use only authorized (metered and regulated) taxis.

From Ciampino to Fiumicino:

Schiaffini Travel S.p.A. (http://www.schiaffini.com/) provides a transfer service between Ciampino and Fiumicino airports. Tickets are EUR5 and can be purchased on board.

Train: There is no rail service connecting the airport to Rome, but you can take a taxi to the Ciampino train station, not far away, and then take a regional (not fast) train into Rome’s Termini Station.

Train

Although the major hub for European train travel in the country is Milan, Rome has its fair share of long-haul international services and is part of a far-reaching domestic rail network. It is managed and maintained by the Italian State Railway (http://www.trenitalia.com/) and offers a variety of options for roving across Europe or just traveling throughout Italy. EuroStar Italia has several high speed lines throughout the country and its major cities. Most of the trains arrive and depart at Rome's Termini Station, including all InterCity, regional and national trains. A few international trains also stream into Ostiense and Tiburtina stations. Train routes include the EuroCity Michelangelo between Rome and Munich, the E368/369 Express Train between Rome and Nice and the EuroNight train connecting Rome, Basel and Geneva. Artesia has overnight service between Rome and Paris.

Roma Termini is the main transport hub of the city. Both lines of the metro system converge here. Just outside the station you will find a number of bus stops, and many airport shuttle services drop off here as well.

Stazione Tiburtina is a smaller rail station, located northeast of the city center. Most intercity and international buses are based here.

Bus

Stazione Tiburtina (http://www.romatiburtina.it/) is located northeast of the city center and is the base for most intercity buses. The bus terminal where you can purchase tickets is located adjacent to the rail station. Euroline (http://www.eurolines.it/) services bus lines that run internationally.

Car

It’s true what they say: all roads lead to Rome. The A1, Italy's famed superhighway running from Milan in the north and to Naples in the south, has a spur to Rome. The A24 spans east and the SS1 Aurelia coastal route splits the A12/E80 between Genoa and Rome. All converge with Rome's circular road, the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA). With gas prices paid by the liter and toll roads littering the motorways, driving can be quite expensive. Check out the Autostrade website (http://www.autostrade.it/) for toll information throughout the country.

Getting Around

Public Transport

Rome Metropolitana or metro has two lines (A and B) recognizable by large red signs marked ""M"". The lines criss-cross through the city, intersecting only at Stazione Termini. Tickets can be purchased at newsstands, tabaccherie, or from machines located in the subway stations. Trains run from 5:30a-11:30p everyday, and until 12:30a on Saturdays.

One of the easiest and cheapest ways to get around is by bus. They run 24 hours a day throughout the entire city, and a single ticket is good for 75 minutes on any means of transit. An all day (BIG) ticket runs EUR4, and is valid until midnight the day it is stamped. The BTI tourist ticket is EUR11 and can be used any time for three days after the date of validation. Children under ten years ride free. For information about other special tickets, visit http://www.atac.roma.it/ (Italian only site).

Taxi

Rome's official taxis are white or yellow and have a black identification number on the door. It is advisable to use only these authorized taxis, as they are metered and regulated. Normal starting fare (between 7a-10p) is EUR2.50; night fares (10p-7a) are higher at EUR5. Remember that Sunday and holiday fares also apply between 7a-10p, and that the rate per mile increases if you travel outside the city limits. Be sure to bring plenty of small bills as Roman taxi drivers are notorious for not having change! Taxi Companies include:

Cooperativa Radiotaxi Samarcanda
Radiotaxi 3570

Car

Driving in Italy can be a harrowing experience, but driving in Rome can be worse. Much of the historical center is a restricted driving zone (Zona Trafica Limitata - abbreviated ZTL), and non-resident vehicles are prohibited M-F 8a-6p and Sa 8a-1p. This is strictly enforced and violations can result in major fines. Free public spaces are indicated by white lines. Paid parking spaces are marked by blue lines, and can be found in semi-central areas such as Termini and the Vatican, although finding a space (especially during tourist season) can be more hassle than it's worth. Parking Termini is located in front of the main train station and is open from 6a-1a. Rates start at EUR5 for two hours, EUR2 each additional hour, EUR1 per hour after the twelfth hour. ParkSi and Parking Ludovisi are located near the Villa Borghese and have slightly cheaper rates. Another option are the parcheggi di scampio lots, located farther outside the city center usually near metro stops. Around EUR2 a day, this is a very economical but riskier option as lots are unattended.

Planning a Trip

This section is devoted to the where, when, and how of your trip -- the advance planning required to get it together and take it on the road. A little planning will help you steer clear of disappointment and stay open to unanticipated pleasures.

Getting There

By Plane

High season on most airlines' routes to Rome is usually June to the beginning of September. This is the most expensive and crowded time to travel. Shoulder season is April and May, early September to October, and December 15 to 24. Low season is November 1 to December 14 and December 25 to March 31.

From North America -- Fares to Italy are constantly changing, but you can expect to pay somewhere in the range of $550 to $1,580 for a direct round-trip ticket from New York to Rome in coach class.

Flying time to Rome from New York, Newark, and Boston is 8 hours; from Chicago, 10 hours; and from Los Angeles, 12 1/2 hours. Flying time to Milan from New York, Newark, and Boston is 8 hours; from Chicago, 9 1/4 hours; and from Los Angeles, 11 1/2 hours.

American Airlines offers daily nonstop flights to Rome from Chicago's O'Hare, with flights from all parts of American's vast network making connections into Chicago. Delta flies from New York's JFK to Milan, Venice, and Rome, and from Atlanta to Rome and Milan. AmericaWest/US Airways offers one flight daily to Rome out of Philadelphia. And Continental flies five times a week to Rome and Milan from its hub in Newark.

Air Canada flies daily from Toronto to Rome. Two of the flights are nonstop; the others touch down en route in Montréal, depending on the schedule.

British Airways, Virgin Atlantic Airways, Air France, Northwest/KLM, and Lufthansa offer some attractive deals for anyone interested in combining a trip to Italy with a stopover in, say, Britain, Paris, Amsterdam, or Germany.

Alitalia is the Italian national airline, with nonstop flights to Rome from different North American cities, including New York (JFK), Newark, Boston, Chicago, Miami, Washington, and Toronto. Nonstop flights into Milan are from New York (JFK) and Newark. From Milan or Rome, Alitalia can easily book connecting domestic flights if your final destination is elsewhere in Italy. Alitalia participates in the frequent-flier programs of other airlines, including Continental and US Airways.

From The United Kingdom -- Operated by the European Travel Network, www.discount-tickets.com is a great online source for regular and discounted airfares to destinations around the world. You can also use this site to compare rates and book accommodations, car rentals, and tours. Click on "Special Offers" for the latest package deals.

British newspapers are always full of classified ads touting slashed fares to Italy. One good source is Time Out. London's Evening Standard has a daily travel section, and the Sunday editions of almost any newspaper run many ads. Although competition is fierce, one well-recommended company that consolidates bulk ticket purchases and then passes the savings on to its consumers is Trailfinders (tel. 0845/050-5945; www.trailfinder.com). It offers access to tickets on such carriers as SAS, British Airways, and KLM.

Both British Airways and Alitalia have frequent flights from London's Heathrow to Rome. British Airways also has one direct flight a day from Manchester to Rome. Bargain fares are offered by smaller carriers flying from the British Isles to Italy. Easyjet (tel. 08712/442366; www.easyjet.com) flies into Rome from London, as does Ryanair (tel. 0899/289993; www.ryanair.com).

Chances are, you'll arrive at Rome's Leonardo da Vinci International Airport (tel. 06-65951), popularly known as Fiumicino, 30km (18 1/2 miles) from the city center. (If you're flying by charter, you might land at Ciampino Airport, discussed below.)

In 2008 a new Terminal 5 opened at Fiumicino for departing passengers of American Airlines, Continental Airlines, Delta, United Airlines, and US Airways. The terminal is connected to other parts of the airport by shuttle bus.

Arriving passengers at Fiumicino must clear Passport Control. After that, you'll see two information desks (one for Rome, one for Italy; tel. 06-65954471). At the Rome desk, you can pick up a general map and some pamphlets daily from 8:15am to 7pm; the staff can also help you find a hotel room if you haven't reserved ahead. A cambio (money exchange) operates daily from 7:30am to 11pm, offering surprisingly good rates.

There's a train station in the airport. To get into the city, follow the signs marked TRENI for the 30-minute shuttle to Rome's main station, Stazione Termini (arriving on Track 22). The shuttle runs from 6:36am to 11:36pm for 9.50€ ($15) one-way. On the way, you'll pass a machine dispensing tickets, or you can buy them in person near the tracks if you don't have small bills on you. When you arrive at Termini, quickly get out of the train, and grab a baggage cart. (It's a long schlep from the track to the exit or to the other train connections, and baggage carts can be scarce.)

A taxi from da Vinci airport to the city costs 45€ ($72) and up for the 1-hour trip, depending on traffic. The expense might be worth it if you have a lot of luggage or just don't want to bother taking a train. Call tel. 06-6645, 06-3570, or 06-4994 for information.

If you arrive on a charter flight at Ciampino Airport (14 km/9 miles south of Rome)tel. 06-65951), you can take a CoTral bus (tel. 800-150008 within Italy), which departs every 30 minutes or so for the Anagnina stop of Metropolitana (subway) Line A. Take Line A to Stazione Termini, where you can make your final connections. Trip time is about 45 minutes and costs 1€ ($1.60). A taxi from this airport to Rome costs the same as the one from the da Vinci Airport , but the trip is shorter (about 40 min.).

By Train Or Bus -- Trains and buses (including trains from the airport) arrive in the center of old Rome at the silver Stazione Termini, Piazza dei Cinquecento (tel. 06-478411); this is the train, bus, and subway transportation hub for all of Rome and is surrounded by many hotels (especially cheaper ones).

If you're taking the Metropolitana (subway), follow the illuminated red-and-white M signs. To catch a bus, go straight through the outer hall and enter the sprawling bus lot of Piazza dei Cinquecento. You'll also find taxis there.

The station is filled with services. At a branch of the Banca San Paolo IMI (at tracks 1 and 24), you can exchange money. Informazioni Ferroviarie (in the outer hall) dispenses information on rail travel to other parts of Italy. There's also a tourist information booth here, along with baggage services, newsstands, and snack bars.

By Train

Trains provide a medium-priced means of transport, even if you don't buy the Eurailpass or one of the special Italian Railway tickets (below). As a rule of thumb, second-class travel usually costs about two-thirds the price of an equivalent first-class trip. The relatively new InterCity trains (IC on train schedules) are modern, air-conditioned trains that make limited stops; compared to the slower direct or regional trains, the supplement can be steep, but a second-class IC ticket will provide a first-class experience.

A couchette (a private fold-down bed in a communal cabin) requires a supplement above the price of first-class travel. Children 4 to 11 receive a discount of 50% off the adult fare, and children 3 and under travel free with their parents. Seniors and travelers under age 26 can also purchase discount cards. Seat reservations are highly recommended during peak season and on weekends or holidays; they must be booked in advance.

Trenitalia Pass for Italy covers 4 to 10 days of travel within 2 months. Price for 4 days 217€ ($347) first class, 174€ ($278) second class. Additional days 22€ ($35) first class, 18€ ($29) second class.

Discounts and bonuses include ferries to Sicily; they do not include international Artesia, France-Italy Night, and Elipsos trains, but they do offer passholder fares on those trains.

You can buy these passes from any travel agent or by calling tel. 800/848-7245. You can also call tel. 800/4-EURAIL or 800/EUROSTAR.

By Bus

We don't recommend traveling to Rome by bus from some other Italian city. All the major cities are connected by rail, which is the fast, efficient, and affordable way to go.

By Car

From the north, the main access route is the Autostrada del Sole (A1), which cuts through Milan and Florence, or you can take the coastal route, SSI Aurelia, from Genoa. If you're driving north from Naples, you take the southern lap of the Autostrada del Sole (A2). All the autostrade join with the Grande Raccordo Anulare, a ring road encircling Rome, channeling traffic into the congested city. Long before you reach this road, you should carefully study a map to see what part of Rome you plan to enter and mark your route accordingly. Route markings along the ring road tend to be confusing.

Important advice: Return your rental car immediately, or at least get yourself to a hotel, park your car, and leave it there until you leave Rome. Don't even try to drive in Rome -- the traffic and parking are just too nightmarish. Many hotels do not have their own parking lots, and the closest paid parking garage may be blocks away.

U.S. and Canadian drivers don't need an International Driver's License to drive a rented car in Italy. However, if driving a private car, they need such a license.

You can apply for an International Driver's License at any American Automobile Association (AAA) branch. You must be at least 18 and have two 2*2-inch photos and a photocopy of your U.S. driver's license with your AAA application form. The actual fee for the license can vary, depending on where it's issued. To find the AAA office nearest you, check the local phone directory or contact AAA's national headquarters (tel. 877/288-4546; www.aaa.com). Remember that an International Driver's License is valid only if physically accompanied by your original driver's license and only if signed on the back. In Canada, you can get the address of the Canadian Automobile Association closest to you by calling tel. 800/267-8713; www.caa.ca.

The Automobile Club d'Italia (ACI), Via Marsala 8, 00185 Roma (tel. 06-49981; www.aci.it), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 2pm.

Rentals -- Many of the loveliest parts of Italy lie away from the main cities, far away from the train stations. For that, and for sheer convenience and freedom, renting a car is usually the best way to explore the country. But you have to be a pretty aggressive and alert driver who won't be fazed by superhigh speeds on the autostrade (national express highways) or by narrow streets in the cities and towns. Italian drivers have truly earned their reputation as bad but daring.

However, the legalities and contractual obligations of renting a car in Italy (where accident and theft rates are very high) are a little complicated. To rent a car here, a driver must have nerves of steel, a sense of humor, a valid driver's license, and a valid passport and (in most cases) be over 25. Insurance on all vehicles is compulsory, though any reputable rental firm will arrange it in advance before you're even given the keys.

The three major rental companies in Italy are Avis, Budget, and Hertz. U.S.-based companies specializing in European car rentals are Auto Europe, Europe by Car, and Kemwel Drive Europe.

In some cases, discounts are offered to members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) or AARP.

Gasoline -- Gasoline, or petrol (known as benzina) is very expensive in Italy. Be prepared for sticker shock every time you fill up even a medium-size car with super benzina, which has the octane rating appropriate for most of the cars you'll be able to rent. Gas stations on the autostrade are open 24 hours, but on regular roads gas stations are rarely open on Sunday; also, many close from noon to 3pm for lunch, and most shut down after 7pm. Make sure the pump registers zero before an attendant starts filling your tank. A popular scam, particularly in the south, is to fill your tank before resetting the meter, so you pay not only your bill but also the charges run up by the previous motorist.

Driving Rules -- Driving is on the right; passing is on the left. Violators of the highway code are fined; serious violations might also be punished by imprisonment. In cities and towns, the speed limit is 50kmph (31 mph). For all cars and motor vehicles on main roads and local roads, the limit is 90kmph (56 mph). For the autostrade, the limit is 130kmph (81 mph). Use the left lane only for passing. If a driver zooms up behind you on the autostrade with his or her lights on, that's your sign to get out of the way! Use of seat belts is compulsory.

Breakdowns & Assistance -- In case of car breakdown or for any tourist information, foreign motorists can call tel. 803-116 (24-hr. nationwide telephone service). For road information, itineraries, and travel assistance, call tel. 06-514971.

Getting Around

Rome is excellent for walking, with sites of interest often clustered together. Much of the inner core is traffic-free, so you'll need to walk whether you like it or not. However, in many parts of the city, it's hazardous and uncomfortable because of the crowds, heavy traffic, and narrow sidewalks. Sometimes sidewalks don't exist at all, and it becomes a sort of free-for-all with pedestrians competing for space against vehicular traffic. Always be on your guard. The hectic crush of urban Rome is considerably less during August, when many Romans leave town for vacation.

By Subway

The Metropolitana, or Metro, for short, is the fastest means of transportation, operating daily from 5:30am to 11:30pm. A big red M indicates the entrance to the subway.

Tickets are 1€ ($1.60) and are available from tabacchi (tobacco shops, most of which display a sign with a white T on a brown background), many newsstands, and vending machines at all stations. Some stations have managers, but they won't make change. Booklets of tickets are available at tabacchi and in some terminals. You can also buy passes for 1 to 7 days.

A Few Train Station Warnings -- In Stazione Termini, you'll almost certainly be approached by touts claiming to work for a tourist organization. They really work for individual hotels (not always the nicest) and will say almost anything to sell you a room. Unless you know something about Rome's layout and are savvy, it's best to ignore them.

Be aware of all your belongings at all times, and keep your wallet and purse away from professionally experienced fingers. Never ever leave your bags unattended for even a second, and while making phone calls or waiting in line, make sure that your attention doesn't wander from any bags you've set by your side or on the ground. Be aware if someone asks you for directions or information -- it's likely meant to distract you and easily will.

Ignore the taxi drivers soliciting passengers right outside the terminal; they can charge as much as triple the normal amount. Instead, line up in the official taxi stand in Piazza dei Cinquecento.

By Bus & Tram

Roman buses and trams are operated by an organization known as ATAC (Azienda Tramvie e Autobus del Comune di Roma), Via Ostiense 131L (tel. 800-431784 for information).

For 1€ ($1.60) you can ride to most parts of Rome, although it can be slow going in all that traffic, and the buses are often very crowded. Your ticket is valid for 75 minutes, and you can get on many buses and trams (and the subway) during that time by using the same ticket. Ask where to buy bus tickets, or buy them in tabacchi or bus terminals. You must have your ticket before boarding because there are no ticket-issuing machines on the vehicles.

At Stazione Termini, you can buy a 1-day ticket (biglietto giornaliero), which costs 4€ ($6.40), or a weekly ticket (biglietto settimanale "carta"), which costs 16€ ($26). These passes allow you to ride the ATAC network without buying individual tickets. A tourist pass costs 11€ ($18) and is valid for 3 days. The tourist pass, the biglietto giornaliero, and the biglietto settimanale tickets are valid on buses, trams, and the subway -- but never ride the trains when the Romans are going to or from work, or you'll be smashed flatter than fettuccine. On the first bus you board, you place your ticket in a small machine, which prints the day and hour you boarded, and then you withdraw it.

Buses and trams stop at areas marked FERMATA. At most of these, a yellow sign displays the numbers of the buses that stop there and a list of all the stops along each bus's route in order, so you can easily search out your destination. In general, they're in service daily from 6am to midnight. After that and until dawn, you can ride on special night buses (they have an N in front of their bus number), which run only on main routes. It's best to take a taxi in the wee hours -- if you can find one.

At the bus information booth at Piazza dei Cinquecento, in front of the Stazione Termini, you can purchase a directory complete with maps summarizing the routes.

Although routes change often, a few reliable routes have remained valid for years, such as no. 75 from Stazione Termini to the Colosseum, H from Stazione Termini to Trastevere, and no. 40 from Stazione Termini to the Vatican. But if you're going somewhere and are dependent on the bus, be sure to carefully check where the bus stop is and exactly which bus goes there -- don't assume that it'll be the same bus the next day.

Two Bus Warnings -- Any map of the Roman bus system will likely be outdated before it's printed. Many buses listed on the "latest" map no longer exist; others are enjoying a much-needed rest, and new buses suddenly appear without warning. There's also talk of completely renumbering the whole system soon, so be aware that the route numbers we've listed might have changed by the time you travel.

Take extreme caution when riding Rome's overcrowded buses -- pickpockets abound! This is particularly true on bus no. 64, a favorite of visitors because of its route through the historic districts and thus also a favorite of Rome's vast pickpocketing community. This bus has earned various nicknames, including the "Pickpocket Express" and "Wallet Eater."

By Taxi

Don't count on hailing a taxi on the street or even getting one at a stand. If you're going out, have your hotel call one. At a restaurant, ask the waiter or cashier to dial for you. If you want to phone for yourself, try one of these numbers: tel. 06-6645, 06-3570, or 06-4994.

The meter begins at 2.80€ ($4.50) for the first 3km (1 3/4 miles) and then rises .92€ ($1.50) per kilometer. Every suitcase costs 1€ ($1.60), and on Sunday, a 4€ ($6.40) supplement is assessed. There's another 5.80€ ($9.30) supplement from 10pm to 7am. Avoid paying your fare with large bills -- invariably, taxi drivers claim that they don't have change, hoping for a bigger tip (stick to your guns and give only about 10%).

By Car

All roads might lead to Rome, but you don't want to drive once you get here. Because the reception desks of most Roman hotels have at least one English-speaking person, call ahead to find out the best route into Rome from wherever you're starting out. You're usually allowed to park in front of the hotel long enough to unload your bags. You'll want to get rid of your rental car as soon as possible or park in a garage.

By Bike

Other than walking, the best way to get through the medieval alleys and small piazzas of Rome is perched on the seat of a bicycle. The heart of ancient Rome is riddled with bicycle lanes to get you through the murderous traffic. The most convenient place to rent bikes is Bici & Baci, Via del Viminale 5 (tel. 06-4828443; www.bicibaci.com), lying 2 blocks west of Stazione Termini, the main rail station. Prices start at 3€ ($4.80) per hour or 11€ ($18) per day.