Covering Rome in Six Days

Description:

The lovely Villa Celimontana was originally a vineyard that was bought by the Mattei family to whom the new design of the gardens is owed. On the Celio hill, it has long attracted visitors with the beauty of the villa and the trees and ancient marbles in its gardens, including an obelisk from the times of Ramses II. It became the property of various foreigners until 1918 when it was confiscated by the Italian state. The last owner, Baron Riccardo Hoffmann, contributed to its expansion and added a small Neo-Gothic temple, which is now the home of the Italian Geographic Society. The villa is as beautiful as ever and a lovely spot to pass a few hours (or take in the talents of renowned musicians at the Jazz & Image festival).

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No visit to Rome is complete without having seen its magnificent Colosseum, a vast amphitheatre with seating for 55,000 that was designed as a horse racing circuit and arena for animal fighting and gladiatorial battles. Upon its completion, spectacular 100-day celebrations were organized as part of the opening ceremony in 72 AD. Its name is believed to come from Nero's enormous statue of Colossus that stood close by.

Our Local Expert Says:

This arch is the largest of the three remaining arches from ancient Rome.

Description:

The Arch of Constantine is particularly interesting because it is like a jigsaw made up of other monuments. It was built using material from Trajan's Forum, from where the statues of the Dacian prisoners and the friezes representing Marcus Aurelius were also taken. The Arch was erected at the beginning of the fourth century in honour of Constantine, following the victory over Maxentius. It is considered one of the last great monuments to be constructed by the Romans. It stands beside the Colosseum in the huge square which in summer is the site for one of the events of the 'Estate Romana'. A huge screen is hung from the arch, onto which films and videos are projected.

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The Forum was designed to be the centre of social, political and economic life in the city. The innumerable remains include the well-conserved triumphal arch of Emperor Septimius Severus, with reliefs depicting his victories and the base of the Temple of Saturn with its eight columns and their splendid Ionic capitals. The 'Rostrum' is the famous platform from which Mark Antony gave his oration in Shakespeare's play after Julius Caesar's assassination. The platform became the setting for many important events in Rome's history. It was named the 'rostrum' after the bows of the ships that form the decorative motif. The Temple of Vesta was the home of the Vestal Virgins, charged with keeping the sacred flame alight. The circular foundations still remain, near to a garden in which traces of the House of the Vestal Virgins can still be seen. The Basilica of Constantine and Massentius was used as the court, and the three remaining barrel-vaulted naves give an idea of its gigantic structure. The Arch of Titus celebrates victories in Judea, and in the reliefs you can see the spoils of war, including an altar and a seven-armed chandelier.

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This is probably the oldest shopping centre in the world. Built by the Emperor Trajan in the 2nd century A.D, it consisted of 150 offices and shops selling food, flowers, jewellery and wool. The finest shops were decorated with mosaics depicting the merchandise on sale. Today the shops are intact, but empty, even though, when the wine-shops were rediscovered, they were full of amphors of wine. The offices on the floor above organised the distribution of free rations of corn to the citizens of Rome.

The recently opened Museum of Imperiali is nearby and a must see to get a glimpse into Trajan's offices. It is truly one of the top sites in Rome.

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The broad Via dei Fori Imperiali is lined on either side by the remains of the Imperial Forums of ancient Rome. The street was laid in 1932 with the name Via dell'Impero (Empire Street) which reflected Mussolini's aims. It connects the centre to the districts of San Giovanni and Celio and is therefore an important artery for the city. The long existing plan to remove the road has never been implemented because the result would be paralysis of the city traffic. However, the plus side would be that the rest of the forums could be excavated. The street runs from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum with the Basilica Ulpia, Trajan's Forum and Augustus' Forum on the right and Caesar's Forum and Nerva's Forum on the left. About halfway along, on both sides, lies the Forum of Peace which is currently being excavated.

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The Capitoline Museums are housed in two palaces that face each other. The one on the left of Michelangelo's steps is the New Palace, which houses one of Europe's most important collections of sculpture. It was designed by Michelangelo and became the world's first public museum in 1734 by order of Pope Clement XII. The other palace, the 'Conservatori,' houses important paintings such as Caravaggio's "St John the Baptist" and works by Titian, Veronese, Rubens and Tintoretto. A sculpture of an enormous foot that was once part of a statue of Emperor Constantine stands in the courtyard. One of the most famous pieces is unquestionably the "She-wolf", a bronze Etruscan sculpture from the 5th century BC to which the twins Romulus and Remus were added by Antonio del Pollaiolo during the Renaissance. General admission is EUR6.20, free to Italian children under 18 and seniors over 65.

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The origins of this theatre run back to 23 BC, when Augustus had it built in honour of Marcus Claudius Marcellus, his nephew and adopted son. The theatre had space for 20,000 people, and was used for games and celebrations. The construction fell into ruin during the following centuries due to plunder and fire: in fact it became a sort of quarry from which materials were taken for the construction of buildings, churches and so forth. Restoration began in about 1300 when the Savelli family bought the ruins. The same family performed further work two centuries later, and this was continued by the Orsini who acquired the complex in order to enlarge their own building: they restored part of the theatre. It is a top thing to do in Rome. Today, concerts are organised here, and this is the only way of seeing it from the inside.

Our Local Expert Says:

Lines to enter the museum are inevitable throughout the entire year. The only way to be sure to avoid them is by booking or joining a tour as the tickets are pre-purchased.

Description:

This unique art collection is exhibited in surroundings of unparalleled beauty. The magnificent Raphael Rooms are among the masterpieces of the collection, where each room is decorated with frescoes by great artists. The best known is The School of Athens, in which contemporary artists appear as classical characters (Leonardo da Vinci, for example, appears as Plato). The Sistine Chapel is the museum's finest treasure, and features Michelangelo's famous Last Judgement. He was one of many artists including Perugino, Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Pinturicchio who contributed to the chapel.

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Visiting Rome for the first time, visitors must experience the Sistine Chapel, the Vatican structure with 50 million monthly visitors. The Chapel was built between 1477 and 1481 by Pope Sixtus IV. From 1480 to 1483 the walls were decorated by famous artists of Renaissance, such as Botticelli, Perugino, Ghirlandaio. After twenty years, Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to decorate the ceiling in 1508. Today, after the restoration, tourists can visit the chapel and see Michelangelo's 'Last Judgement'. The Vatican has placed its enormous art collection on the Web in hopes that it will attract more tourists. The site allows visitors to take a virtual reality tour of some of the dozen museums and galleries that make up the Vatican collection, viewing Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel with a three-dimensional video. At the Chapel, you will invariably find it crowded with hundreds of tourists, so be prepared. The best way to see it is to go to the Vatican Museums early, so that you're among the first in line when they open. Silence should be observed and photography is not prohibited.

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People come by the millions each year to receive the Pope's blessing, traditionally given on Sundays at noon. St Peter's has undergone many transformations since the original Constantine basilica of AD320. The top of its majestic dome (designed by Michelangelo), provides the best vantage point from which to marvel at Bernini's magnificent colonnade surrounding the square, the gilded bronze canopy above the altar and Michelangelo's Pietà. Bramante, Pietro da Cortona and Canova are just a handful of the many other artists who worked together on this monumental basilica's decoration and design.

Description:

In the heart of the Prati district, this is pizzeria has an old-world atmosphere. The pizzas are nearly always classic: the Neapolitan-style pizza is available on request. There are also canapés, savory filled pizza envelopes, Focaccia, and a range of first and second course dishes. At lunch there are fixed-price menus that start at about EUR 6. Also check out San Marco for an after-theatre dinner, but be sure to make a reservation.

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The splendid fortress of Castel Sant'Angelo was originally built as a mausoleum for the Emperor Hadrian in 139 AD. In the 10th century AD it was transformed into a castle, then, 500 years later, into the elegant residence of Pope Alexander VI Borgia. Michelangelo designed the marvellous main court for Pope Leon X and many of the rooms inside are decorated with frescoes of great beauty. It's also been used to house prisoners, including the sculptor Benvenuto Cellini. The terrace offers a fine view of the river Tiber and opera lovers will know that this was where the final act of Puccini's opera "Tosca" took place. The building is now a museum with a fine collection of suits of armour.

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Prati di Castello - or simply Prati - was built beside Castel Sant'Angelo at the end of the 19th c. It was developed around Via di Cola di Rienzo which is cut by a number of smaller parallel streets to form a chessboard pattern. Prati is bounded by Piazza Cola di Rienzo and Piazza Risorgimento which was recently renovated for the Jubilee. The district also borders Vittoria, and those of Santo Spirito and Sant'Angelo. The palaces in Prati are not particularly tall. The first were built in simply decorated forms but then Art Deco, Neo-Gothic and Medieval styles were introduced. The following buildings are particularly worthy of note: nos. 85, 212 and 243 Via Cola di Rienzo; the palaces that face onto Piazza Cola di Rienzo; certain buildings on Via Marcantonio Colonna; and 67 Via Andrea Doria, but there are many more.

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The local market is held around Piazza dell'Unità on Via Cola di Rienzo. It covers the block from Via Fabio Massimo to the Unità Square. The 1928 building was constructed in neoclassical style in white and pale yellow. The main facade has an enormous arched entrance supported by two Doric columns and symmetrical to the one at the back on Via Dei Gracchi. Two small fountains against the walls to the sides of the entrance act as decorations. They have two basins, one above the other, and are housed in decorated niches. Large coats of arms can be seen above the fountains.

Our Local Expert Says:

Once a thriving spot for ancient temples, the ruins have been taken over by cats! The Roman Cat Sanctuary, located among the ruins, takes in abandoned cats and provides them with a safe playground away from the traffic. The sanctuary is run by volunteers and houses up to 250 cats, all available for adoption.

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The ancient buildings that can be seen here were discovered during excavation work in the 1920s. The four temples from the Republican era were named A, B, C and D. Temple C is the oldest, Temple A is from the 3rd c. BC, and some of the flooring and mosaics of Temple B are still visible. Though Temple C was built in 100 BC, the mosaic decorations were added during a later period.

Description:

This celebrated theatre was founded in 1732. However, structural changes and renovations carried out over the years mean that nothing remains of the original structure. The museum is situated in the theatre's attic; photographs, fragments of the original ceiling dating from the 1800s, curtains, posters and designs abound. Unfortunately none of the antique costumes or sets have been saved. There are also displays chronicling the changes in the area surrounding the theatre. The caretaker is usually available in the morning to let visitors into the museum. Admission: Free.

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Tradition says that Campo dei Fiori was named after the woman loved by Pompey, Flora, but it is more likely to have come from something a bit less romantic: in the 14th century, Campo dei Fiori was a long-abandoned field filled with flowers. In the second half of the 19th century the square was used for a colourful market that has been held each morning since then. It was also the scene of many executions, most notably that of Giordano Bruno, the philosopher who was burned here in 1600. The statue dedicated to him replaced a fountain that was moved to the nearby Chiesa Nuova square, and a reproduction of it was moved to the side of the Campo dei Fiori.

Our Local Expert Says:

All year round, this square is filled with artists, circus acts and puppet performers.

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During the Christmas season this square is packed with stalls selling toys, sweets and decorations for the Nativity scene or Christmas tree, making it a favourite spot for children. Its unusual shape recalls the time of Domitian, who built a stadium for equestrian displays here. The Fountain of the Rivers, with the obelisk, and the Fountain of the Moor, with the god of the sea, at the centre of the square, are both by Bernini.

Our Local Expert Says:

Live entertainment from pianists makes this café a great place to eat or meet for coffee.

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Italians love to look good while drinking their cappuccino and there's no better place to look candid while sipping on some favoloso café than Caffè della Pace. This chic bar has been around for nearly 100 years and has always attracted tourists and locals thanks to its perfect people watching setting near Piazza Navona. The outdoor tables with ivy draped over the building certainly makes for a picture perfect moment. No matter what time you come here, this café is always crowded.
- Nicole Arriaga, Rome Expert

Description:

Commissioned by Marcus Agrippa, restored by Domitian, and subsequently rebuilt by Hadrian (who added the dome) before being turned into a church in the early 7th century by Pope Boniface IV. The building's sole source of light is the opening at the dome's apex (the oculus); according to popular legend, this formed the base for the bronze pinecone that is now in the Vatican's 'Pigna' courtyard, where it is used as a fountain. Many famous Italians are buried in the Pantheon, including Renaissance painter Raphael and King Vittorio Emanuele I.

Our Local Expert Says:

Bar del Fico is a trendy bar that has become popular with young Romans as well as tourists.

Description:

Recently renovated, Bar del Fico is a historic local caffe in the neighborhood side streets behind Piazza Navona. Popular for its morning pastries and late night crowd. With its recent upgrade, Bar del Fico hopes to remain historic while setting its food in the door of Rome's new hipster groups.

Our Local Expert Says:

Piazza Venezia is perhaps the most central location in Rome with the Coliseum and Roman Forum to the right, the Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica to the left (across the river) and Via del Corso straight ahead leading to Piazza del Popolo, the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain.

Description:

Beset on all sides by roads, the square is heavily congested with traffic. In the background, the Altare della Patria is dedicated to King Vittorio Emanuele. Romans refer to it as the 'wedding cake' or the 'typewriter' because of its shape and colour. Shortly after WW1, the body of the Unknown Soldier was brought here and placed in the centre of the steps of the Vittoriano. It has a permanent armed guard. Palazzo Venezia was built during the second half of the 15th c. and was where the Venetian ambassadors to Rome stayed. Later it became the residence of the Cardinal of the Basilica of St Mark.

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Construction of this palace begun in 1455 for the Venetian cardinal, Pietro Barbi, who made it his residence. Construction of the first palace was completed shortly before his election to the Papacy in 1464 when he adopted the name Paul II. He then decided to amplify the palace and make it a dwelling worthy of a pope. The work continued until 20 years after the Pope's death and it underwent architectural transformations on several occasions over the centuries. In 1916 it was confiscated by the state of Italy which decided to make it the Palazzo Venezia museum, a role it still plays, as well as being the library of the National Institute of Archaeology and History of Art. During the Fascist regime, the palace was made famous by newsreels of the time, showing Mussolini speaking to the crowds below from a window in the palace.

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For centuries Via del Corso has been the main road of access to the city for pilgrims coming in from the north. Originally, it was known as Via Flaminia during the time of the Roman Empire, and then went on to be known as Via Lata in the Middle Ages. This road, measuring 1500 metres, connects Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo. Here, among other things, you can find elegant palaces dating back to ancient times. Most tourists today love taking a walk down this road only to lose themselves in ancient history and the essence of this culturally rich city.

Description:

Tradition has it that throwing a coin over your left shoulder into the fountain guarantees a swift return to the world's most beautiful city. Anita Ekberg's dip in it was immortalized in Fellini's 'La Dolce Vita', and Italian actor Toto even sold it to an American, passing himself off as its owner. Earlier it was the setting for the award-winning "Three Coins in the Fountain" motion picture, ensuring its popularity worldwide. Designed by Nicola Salvi for Pope Clemente XII, it was completed in the second half of the 1700s. The statues in the centre represent Neptune supported by Tritons on either side while rococo-style Poli Palace provides the perfect backdrop.

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Via dei Condotti is one of the most elegant streets in the capital. It gets its name from conduits that used to take water to the baths of Agrippa near the Pantheon. On this street, which runs from Via del Corso to Piazza di Spagna, there are many upscale shops: Bulgari, Gucci, Ferragamo & Louis Vuitton, to name but a few. The shops are patronised by tourists and upper class Romans. The Caffé Greco, whose elegance and character are not to be missed, is also found on this street.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Spanish Steps area is the cobblestone equivalent to Fifth Avenue in New York City or Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, with upscale shops and expensive cafes. Every spring, the steps are covered with bright flowers.

Description:

An incredible, almost theatrical square with the lovely Spanish steps leading up to the Chiesa di Trinità dei Monti. One of the most important fashion shows is held here, the steps being used as a catwalk. It is now an international meeting point. The fountain known as the 'Barcaccia' (boat) was commissioned by Urbano Barberini to commemorate the alliance made with the King of France, whose coat of arms can be seen on Trinità dei Monti. The square leads into several famous streets, Via Dei Condotti, Via Frattina and Via Borgognona with their luxurious boutiques, and Via Del Babuino with its antique shops.

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Grom is a gelateria that is frequented by not only tourists but Florentines as well. It has their own specific gusti (flavors) that really entice the new traveler. Founded in 2003 in Torino, it grew very successful and famous among the Italians. In fact, in 2007 Grom opened in New York it being the first city abroad to take on this delicious gelato. In Florence, there is constantly a line running along side the tiny shop near the Duomo.

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During the Middle Ages, this square formed the main entrance to the city for pilgrims and travellers arriving on the Via Flaminia (from the north). It was only when Pope Sixtus V placed the 1200 BC Egyptian obelisk of Ramses II in the centre of the square that Piazza del Popolo took on its current function. The obelisk is the tip of the trident formed by the three streets that begin in the square: Via del Corso, Via di Ripetta and Via del Babuino. Valadier was the architect who gave the square its present elliptical appearance by building the two ramps that lead to the Pincio. Two shell-shaped fountains overlooked by groups of statues stand in the two hemicycles. Valadier was also responsible for the buildings on Via del Babuino and Via di Ripetta that are today occupied by the famous cafés Rosati and Canova.

Our Local Expert Says:

Make sure to request a map of the park as there are many hidden sights and museums.

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Design of the villa began at the start of the 17th century when Pope Paul V Borghese was elected. Its style resembles that of city villas from 100 years earlier. The gardens were especially cared for - aviaries were added to house exotic birds and areas of the gardens were stocked with peacocks, ostriches, gazelles and even lions. Over the years, the garden was altered into an English-style space designed by Jacob Moore. One of the park's loveliest areas is the Lake Garden, which is enclosed by a railing that emphasises the lake's irregular shape. In the centre of an artificial island, a temple was built dedicated to Aesculapius. The famous Square of Siena has been the scene of horse-jumping and carriage-racing competitions since it was first built.

Description:

The wonderful view of Rome, pleasant live music in the background, highly professional service and chef Enrico Derflingher are the elements that make this an excellent restaurant. The cuisine is mostly based on typical Mediterranean cooking, particularly the macrobiotic menu and traditional Roman cooking. However, there are some original touches - for example, Maccheroncini (a kind of short pasta) with artichokes, pistachios and duck sauce, potato and spinach gnocchi with cress and smoked ricotta, and slices of salt-roast bass with black olives, oregano and bacon. The desserts and wine-list are excellent.

Description:

San Giovanni in Laterano is the oldest church in the world. It was founded by Pope Melchiade at the start of the 4th century on the ruins of the villa of the Roman family, the Laterani. The church's current appearance was created by Borromini for the 1650 Jubilee. Although he retained the 16th century ceiling and floor, the architect altered the appearance by joining pairs of columns in the central nave to make a single pillar inside. In this he built coloured marble niches and placed statues of the apostles. In 1735, Alessandro Galilei renewed the façade entirely in travertine stone and crowned it with 15 statues, and at the end of the 19th century the apse was also rebuilt. The admission to the basilica is free.

Description:

On Good Friday this location is packed with pilgrims who perform penitence by climbing these twenty-eight wood-covered steps on their knees. According to tradition, these steps were trod by Christ when he was led to Pontius Pilate for his trial. St Helen, mother of Emperor Constantine, brought the steps to Rome from Jerusalem. Pope Sixtus V had them placed in their present position. They are covered in wood so that no foot can touch them, and this is the reason why the faithful climb up them on their knees.

Our Local Expert Says:

This park, not far from Appia Antica, differs from the other larger parks in Rome because it has not been groomed in any way. A nature park in its true sense, visitors will be able to picnic or bike ride among ruins from ancient Rome.

Description:

La Caffarella is off the tourist track so visitors often miss out on an important part of history--and nature. With old farm buildings, hidden caves and large ruins, tourists should make sure to request a map of the park and description of the sights.

Our Local Expert Says:

This ancient cobblestoned street offers visitors a glimpse into the past with its ruins and historic markings.

Description:

The ancient Appian Way was the most important of the consular roads. It was inaugurated in 312 B.C. by censor Appius Claudius Ciecus after whom it was named. The road was especially important for economic reasons as it connected Rome with the south of Italy. Initially it only went as far as Capua along the Pontine marshes, but was later extended to Benevento and then all the way to Brindisi, which encouraged trade with the eastern Mediterranean. This last stretch lost importance however when the Appia Traia Way was opened that stretched down to Bari. Lined with pines and cypress trees, the road is very attractive, particularly where the original paving can be seen. There are many remains of Roman constructions that testify to its ancient splendour and archaeological importance.

Description:

The catacombs of San Callisto, known for more than two centuries as the Church of Rome's cemetery, contain the tombs of nine popes buried in the Crypt. They extend over approximately 20km on four floors. Strangely enough, the tomb of Callisto I, martyred in 200 while celebrating a mass in Trastevere, is not to be found here. The most visited sites are obviously the papal 'crypt' and Santa Cecilia's sepulchre. These places were accidentally discovered by the scholar Giovanni Battista de Rossi, who entered a vineyard and noticed two unusual structures; one was converted into a farmhouse and the other was used as a wine shop and contained bottles of wine. Acquiring the land with the consent of Pope Pius IX and starting excavations, he found some relics, which led to the final discovery of the entire complex.

Our Local Expert Says:

Great establishment on a street off of Via Appia Nuova.

Description:

This extremely modern bar offers a vast choice of cocktails, long drinks and beers. Excellent food is available until late at night.

Description:

This newer pizzeria has already attracted a loyal clientele with its Mediterrenean flavors and aromas. They serve traditional Neapolitan meals and pizzas, with the freshest ingredients and buffalo mozzarella. Excellent fish and classic Neapolitan desserts.

Our Local Expert Says:

While still populated with Italian Jews, many former residents of the Ghetto have moved outside the city center since the area has become very popular, and therefore very expensive.

Description:

This area has been frequented by the Jewish community since the year 1000, thus the name "ghetto." It is full of archeological remains, dating to the medieval period and earlier. The significant monuments that can be seen include Octavia's Portico, built by Augustus for his sister, now incorporating the church of Sant'Angelo in Pescheria. Cola di Rienzo was born in this area, and a plaque marks his birthplace in what was once Via della Fiumara. The Synagogue, with its square dome, is very different from the surrounding Roman city architecture, and on the wall of the riverside street there are slabs with inscriptions commemorating the death of the Jews in the Nazi concentration camps and at the Fosse Ardeatine.

Description:

Via del Portico d'Ottavia was a type of boundary for Jewish people confined to the Ghetto. The Jewish Ghetto was created in 1500 following an order by Paul IV and the Jewish people of Rome have lived here since 1870. The left side of the street has remained almost unchanged. There are some very interesting Medieval and Renaissance buildings, such as the house of Lorenzo Manilio at numbers 1-2, and the buildings at numbers 8-11 and 12-15. They all have picturesque windows and porticos. There is also the church of S. Gregorio a Ponte Quattro Capi, known as the church of the Divina Pietà and, at the bottom of the street, the old remains of the Portico d'Ottavia.

Description:

The remains of Octavia's Portico stand at the end of the road known as Portico d'Ottavia. It was called this, despite being built in 146 BC by Quintus Cecilius Metellus, because it was rebuilt by Emperor Augustus in the 1st century AD who dedicated it to his sister Octavia. Two centuries later it was renovated by Emperors Septimus Severus and Caracalla but it retained its Augustan name. Initially, the rectangular area was used for promenading and was decorated with sculptures and paintings; some sculptures were also placed at its centre where Octavia's library and several temples once stood. During the Middle Ages - up until the destruction of the Ghetto walls - the function of the portico was altered and it was used as a fish market. One of the results was that the church behind the portico was given the name Sant'Angelo in Pescheria. A Latin inscription on the arch at the end of the portico refers to the curious tradition that allowed the Conservatori - the magistrates of the city - to receive the heads of the largest fish!

Description:

The New Synagogue was built in memory of the Ghetto which was created under the orders of Paolo IV in the middle of the 16th century. Rome's Jewish population was forced to live in the Ghetto's squalid conditions until 1870. The Synagogue remains under continual police surveillance. The Jewish community has a permanent exhibition inside which includes prints, silver, holy objects and other items which help to introduce visitors to Jewish culture.

Description:

The owner is always happy to explain each of the dishes to new customers. The menu includes dried meats or pickled courgettes as antipasti. First courses include fusilli with grouper, marrow flowers and classic tagliatelle con stracotto (with braised meat sauce). From the second courses, the sea bass with squash is superb. They also serve delicious desserts and have a selection of Italian wines. The restaurant can cater for up to 50 and is located inside a 14th-century palazzo. There is an area at the entrance to the restaurant, which is used solely for blessing bread and hand washing. It closes during the Jewish holidays

Description:

This fairly unknown church was designed and built in 1612 by Sebregondi over an earlier church in front of which, in 1546, the Virgin Mary miraculously appeared crying on the scene of a cruel crime. The event is commemorated in a fresco, the Madonna of the Lament, over the high altar. There is also the painting of the Miracle of the Weeping Madonna opposite the organ on one of the two sides of the altarpiece. Entrance to the church in the shape of a Greek cross is from either of two side roads, Via del Pianto and Via Santa Maria dei Calderari, and not from the main façade, which was never completed. The main façade faces 'Piazza Giudìa' in the district known as the Ghetto where the Jews were required to live during the 16th-19th centuries.

Our Local Expert Says:

The word "Trastevere" combines two separate meanings: "tras" and "tevere" which translate as "beyond" and "tevere" since it is across the Tevere river from the bustling city center.

Description:

It is strange to think that this area of Rome was originally built to be a city port where storehouses held goods at the time of Augustus and continued to do so until the end of the 19th century. Trastevere then became a downmarket residential quarter and has now developed into a very desirable quarter. The heart of the district is Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere with its lovely church, a 17th century palazzo and a fountain in the middle which is probably Rome's oldest, having been designed by architects such as Bernini, Fontana and Della Porta. There are still some well-conserved medieval houses. On Sunday mornings, you can visit the 7th Corte dei Vigili in Via dei Salumi, and if you enter the guards' rooms, you will see grafitti on the walls written by Roman soldiers who served the emperors from Septimus Severus to Caracalla, in addition to notations of their guard duty.

Description:

Villa Doria Pamphili has its main entrance at San Pancrazio Gate though it has other entrances around its 9-kilometre perimeter. Besides being Rome's largest park, it is also one of the richest in terms of vegetation with tall trees and rare plants. There are also many animals: marsh turtles, moorhens, herons, swans, geese and fish in the pool. The park was laid out on the orders of Prince Camillo Pamphili, the nephew of Pope Innocent X, between 1644 and 1652. The villa was designed with sculptor and architect Alessandro Algardi, the creator of the fountains of the Lily and the Snail. Algardi is also attributed with the Casino di Allegrezza, one of the park's best features, although it is argued by some that he only contributed to the decoration. The last changes to the villa were made by Andrea Busirici Vici who was commissioned by Prince Filippo Andrea V Doria Pamphili. Currently the Casino and the secret garden are owned by the state while the rest of the park is owned by Rome Council and is open to the public.

Description:

If you go through the S. Pancrazio entrance to the Doria Pamphilj villa and follow the road upwards, you will reach a small piazza with beautiful flowerbeds. The monumental arch is there, forming a second triumphal entrance to the villa. The arch was built by Andrea Busirici in Casino dei Quattro Venti. The Casino and the nearby Vascello were destroyed and you can still see some of the ruins of these buildings that defended the Roman Republic. The arch has recently been restored; it is red in colour and is made up of three portals (the centre archway being the largest). There are two small white marble statues at the top of the centre archway that stand to either side of the noble family's crest.

Description:

Named after one of the gates of early medieval Rome (Arco di San Pancrazio), which rises nearby, Antico Arco is on Janiculum Hill not far from Trastevere and the American Academy. It's a hip restaurant with a young, stylish clientele. Carefully created dishes include homemade fresh cannelloni with rock fish and aged percorino cheese; or a risotto with red Sicilian shrimp, asparagus, and fresh herbs. The chef has an artisan's devotion to fine ingredients, as evoked by the grilled filet of beef with roasted tomatoes, or the filet of hake from the North Sea.

Description:

This restaurant is made up of two separate parts. The simpler and more informal of the two is a street-level pizzeria, where at least a dozen kinds of homemade pastas and pizzas are offered along with freshly made salads and simple platters of such grilled specialties as veal, chicken, steak, and fish. More upscale, and somewhat calmer, is the upstairs restaurant, where big windows, high ceilings, and lots of exposed brick create an appropriately minimalist setting for cutting-edge cuisine. Look for a fusion of Italian and Pacific Rim cuisine in such combinations as spaghetti stir-fried in a Chinese wok with fresh al dente vegetables, prawns and spring baby vegetables tempura style, buffalo mozzarella intriguingly entwined with tuna and arugula, and Middle Eastern staples.

Description:

Fish, cooked simply but well, abound here: risotto alla marinara, fish soup, linguine allo scoglio, spaghetti with clams and various types of steamed or baked fish with herbs or salt. Other Mediterranean dishes such as ravioli with ricotta cheese and spinach are excellent. The restaurant is clean, airy and well managed, so the relaxed atmosphere makes it an ideal place to take friends.

Our Local Expert Says:

Roman restaurants (and Italian in general) rarely offer meals catered to dieters so this restaurant has come to be appreciated by visitors for healthy choices.

Description:

The homemade pasta is excellent while certain curiosities such as 'Voglio star leggero' ('I want to stay slim') will be welcomed by those on a diet who like a good meal all the same. It is based on pasta seasoned with courgettes, rocket, aubergines and a shower of Parmesan or sheep's cheese. The menu alters with the seasons so winter dishes include Polenta, and pasta and Bean Soup. There is air-conditioning inside and tables outside for those pleasant summer evenings.