Off the Beaten Path Rome

Description:

Villa Doria Pamphili has its main entrance at San Pancrazio Gate though it has other entrances around its 9-kilometre perimeter. Besides being Rome's largest park, it is also one of the richest in terms of vegetation with tall trees and rare plants. There are also many animals: marsh turtles, moorhens, herons, swans, geese and fish in the pool. The park was laid out on the orders of Prince Camillo Pamphili, the nephew of Pope Innocent X, between 1644 and 1652. The villa was designed with sculptor and architect Alessandro Algardi, the creator of the fountains of the Lily and the Snail. Algardi is also attributed with the Casino di Allegrezza, one of the park's best features, although it is argued by some that he only contributed to the decoration. The last changes to the villa were made by Andrea Busirici Vici who was commissioned by Prince Filippo Andrea V Doria Pamphili. Currently the Casino and the secret garden are owned by the state while the rest of the park is owned by Rome Council and is open to the public.

Description:

This lovely garden is filled with 7000 exotic flowers from all over the world. The collection of marvelously coloured orchids is probably the centrepiece of the entire gardens, which were at one time part of Palazzo Corsini. The stepped fountain with a composition of flowers is very picturesque.

Description:

The cooking is typically Roman with lots of fried food, pastas, vegetables, cheeses and herbs. The wines are, of course, mostly Roman. The restaurant is housed in a 16th century building and is named after a love-affair that took place there. It is said that the artist Raphael met Margherita Luti here, a woman who became his model and with whom he fell in love. Margherita was nicknamed 'la Fornarina', being the daughter of a baker. Eating under the trees in this romantic setting is a delight. The opening hours are: 1p-3p and 8p-midnight, Tuesday-Sunday.

Description:

Piazza di Pasquino is one of the many squares that has become a feature of the great Roman empire. But it has become more famous because of the statue of Pasquino—a tailor who enjoyed speaking ill about the nobles. Even today people paste messages and claims under the statue continuing the Roman tradition of lampooning. Palaces and historic buildings still stand side by side with the modern brick buildings. Although many old buildings have been pulled down to be replaced by newer ones, the love of tourists for this Piazza has not declined even a bit. One of the reasons for this is the many shops and restaurants that abound here and the proximity to Piazza Novona, which is another shopping district.

Description:

Pope Sixtus IV called on the architect Baccio Pontelli for the construction of this church at the end of the 15th century, during a period of peace after the end of the war with the Turks. It was, indeed, dedicated to the Madonna, as a token of thanks for that peace. At the beginning of the 16th century Bramante added the cloister, which, though modest in itself, lent an effect of size to the church. Among the frescoes present are Raphael's 'Sybil' and 'Prophets', designed by Raphael but executed by his pupil Timoteo Viti.

Description:

This national French church holds the tombs of many famous French people. Caravaggio is one artist who features in this beautiful Renaissance church. There is a wooden pulpit with painted panels, fairly unusual for Roman churches; the façade was carried out by Domenico Fontana following a design by Giacomo della Porta; San Luigi is immortalised in a fresco by Natoire, and Il Domenichino frescoed Santa Cecilia's chapel.

Description:

The Tarpea cliff over which traitors were thrown stands between the Teatro di Marcello and the Foro Romano; it is visible from Piazza della Consolazione. The cliff was named after Tarpea, the beautiful but perfidious woman who betrayed Rome. She is said to have told the Sabines (who were warring against the Romans) the secret path to reach the city's defensive fort. For this she was dispatched over the edge. Another legend says that she was buried on the cliff and covered by gold paid to the Sabines for her help against the Romans.

Description:

This fairly unknown church was designed and built in 1612 by Sebregondi over an earlier church in front of which, in 1546, the Virgin Mary miraculously appeared crying on the scene of a cruel crime. The event is commemorated in a fresco, the Madonna of the Lament, over the high altar. There is also the painting of the Miracle of the Weeping Madonna opposite the organ on one of the two sides of the altarpiece. Entrance to the church in the shape of a Greek cross is from either of two side roads, Via del Pianto and Via Santa Maria dei Calderari, and not from the main façade, which was never completed. The main façade faces 'Piazza Giudìa' in the district known as the Ghetto where the Jews were required to live during the 16th-19th centuries.

Description:

The streets between Piazza Venezia, Piazza del Campidoglio and Via delle Botteghe Oscure lead to Piazza Margana or Piazza Marghane, the square named after the powerful family that lived in the district. This medieval area was not touched during modifications to Rome made in the 19th and 20th centuries. The palaces of the nobility were all built in the 17th c. over Renaissance buildings so they have maintained their original characteristics. The Palazzo Albertoni was frequented by artists and writers who instituted the monthly prize, the 'Tor Margana', which lasted until the 1970s. The square was also used for open-air art exhibitions during those years.

Description:

Vecchia Roma is a charming, moderately priced trattoria in the heart of the Ghetto. Movie stars have frequented the place, sitting at the crowded tables in one of the four small dining rooms. The owners are known for their frutti de mare (fruits of the sea), a selection of briny fresh seafood. The minestrone is made with fresh vegetables, and an interesting selection of antipasti, including salmon or vegetables, is always available. The pastas and risottos are savory, including linguine alla marinara with calamari and risotto with red cabbage and "fruits of the sea." The chef's specialties are lamb and spigola (a type of white fish).

Description:

The Hotel Napoleon faces the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which hosts one of the city's largest markets every morning. Termini rail station is close by and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore can be reached on foot in a few minutes (this is one of the Catholic church's loveliest and most important churches.) A short bus ride takes you to the Colosseum, Trajan's market, the imperial forum and Piazza Venezia. The hotel is in a quiet and attractive building and the staff are extremely helpful.

Description:

Head out of Rome and off the beaten track to experience a different side of Italy in Tuscany and Umbria. You'll visit the lovely towns of Cortona and Montepulciano, and sample wine, cheeses, salami, olive oil and other local specialties.

Leaving Rome, you'll head north to cross the Tiber valley to Cortona. This town has changed little since the Middle Ages, and was most recently depicted in the Oscar-winning film La Vita e Bella and described by American novelist Frances Mayes in her book Under the Tuscan Sun. As a result, Cortona is enjoying renewed popularity. Stroll through the historic center, absorbing the atmosphere of this picturesque town.

Next you'll drive along the shores of Lake Trasimeno, where you will stop to taste, and perhaps purchase, some of the local products (olive oil, cheeses, salami and ham). Lunch will be served in a typical country restaurant.

In the afternoon, you'll drive through the hills of the Chianti region to reach the hilltop town of Montepulciano. The ruby-red Vino Nobile wine of this town is famous the world over. You'll visit one of the oldest wine cellars, discover the winemakers' secrets and taste the final result!

Description:

Sit back and relax after your day of sightseeing and experience Rome's night-time magic from the comfort of your air-conditioned coach. You'll throw coins in the Trevi Fountain and experience 'la dolce vita' on this brilliant after-dark tour of Rome's floodlit monuments, the ideal pre-dinner tour.

Your night-time tour includes two stops: Piazza Navona, to discover Bernini's beautiful Fountain of the Four Rivers, and the Trevi Fountain, where you can continue the tradition of throwing coins into the impressive Baroque fountain to ensure you return to Rome in the future.

Highlights on your nocturnal tour of Rome's famous illuminated sights include:

• Piazza Venezia with its tomb to the unknown soldier
• Capitoline Hill
• Imperial Rome's Forum, Colosseum, Arch of Constantine and Circus Maximus
• The Jewish Quarter on the banks of the River Tiber
• Imposing Castel Sant'Angelo,
• St Peter's Basilica
• The ancient Aurelian Walls framing the Villa Borghese park

Rome's beautiful gateways: Porta Flaminia, through which you can admire the Piazza del Popolo, and Porta Pinciana, which leads to the famous Via Veneto, symbol of 'la dolce vita' (the sweet life) in Rome.

Description:

The Hotel Napoleon faces the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which hosts one of the city's largest markets every morning. Termini rail station is close by and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore can be reached on foot in a few minutes (this is one of the Catholic church's loveliest and most important churches.) A short bus ride takes you to the Colosseum, Trajan's market, the imperial forum and Piazza Venezia. The hotel is in a quiet and attractive building and the staff are extremely helpful.

Description:

This museum covers the period between the end of the Roman Empire and the beginning of the Renaissance. The collection includes extremely valuable finds, such as swords made of engraved silver and gold, buckles and tack for horses, alongside more frivolous items like jewelry with painted ceramic pearls and what can only be called the first European collapsible seat. Religious works depicting Celtic designs engraved in stone and rich embroidery from the garments worn by medieval priests are well worth seeing.

Our Local Expert Says:

Though the church is small and a bit out of the way, the visit may be worth it just to get the chocolates! In Italy, monks are renowned for their production of olive oil, wine and chocolates. At this spot, make sure to get a variety of the Monk-made chocolates to bring home as gifts.

Description:

According to tradition, when St Paul was decapitated his head bounced on the ground three times and where it bounced rose three springs. This is where the 'Abbazia delle Tre Fontane' was founded, which during the Jubilees became a place of pilgrimage where faithful followers received plenary indulgence. The Abbazia is a complex of three churches built where the three fountains emerge. It is set in a tranquil location, surrounded by eucalyptus trees planted in 1868 by Trappist monks who, still famous for the liquor they produce from eucalyptus plants and their excellent chocolate, became proprietors of the land (which had been left since 1600 due to its barrenness). The three churches are the SS Vincenzo and Anastasio, the largest of the three, Santa Maria in Scala Coeli and S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane.

Description:

The restaurant is called 'The Three Brothers' because it belongs to Franco, Attilio and Mario. The brothers were amongst the first to open a restaurant serving Arab food in Rome. The menu is excellent, including many dishes from other countries such as Paella from Valencia or Tournedos Cordon Rouge, as well as classic Italian food. Its best dishes, however, are the turbot marinated in Arab spices with lemon and the Chicken Kebabs (Tawok). The mixed Arab antipasti are really generous as are all the portions at 'I Tre Fratelli'. The traditional Arab desserts are excellent including dishes such as Basbous made from coconut flour.

Our Local Expert Says:

This park, not far from Appia Antica, differs from the other larger parks in Rome because it has not been groomed in any way. A nature park in its true sense, visitors will be able to picnic or bike ride among ruins from ancient Rome.

Description:

La Caffarella is off the tourist track so visitors often miss out on an important part of history--and nature. With old farm buildings, hidden caves and large ruins, tourists should make sure to request a map of the park and description of the sights.

Our Local Expert Says:

A trip to this cave is an emotional voyage. When the Italian Resistance set off a bomb that killed German soldiers during WWII, Adolf Hitler was rumored to have ordered 100 Italians shot for each German killed. Although it would be expected that the prisoners were primarily Jewish, only 75 of the 335 were Jewish. The rest were either residents of the area where the bomb went off or members of the Italian Resistance involved in fending off the Nazis. Be prepared for a shock of WWII reality.

Description:

Located behind the Catacombe di Domitilla, this is also an old burial site of Christian martyrs. More than three hundred people, mainly Jews, political prisoners, and even a priest and a 14-year-old boy, were brought here and killed. After this massacre, the German troops blew up the tunnel leading to the Chamber of death in an attempt to destroy all traces of the crime. This modern catacomb can be visited together with the Museum of the Resistance and modern sculptures by Coccia and Basaldella. Admission is free.

Description:

This trattoria, a longtime favorite, offers a great introduction to the Neapolitan kitchen. Here you can taste a genuine Neapolitan pizza (crunchy, oozy, and excellent) with clams and mussels. Or, you can start with a medley of savory stuffed vegetables and antipasti before moving on to chicken cacciatore or well-flavored tender veal scaloppini. Scoglio di Frisio also makes for an inexpensive night of hokey but still charming entertainment, as cornball "O Sole Mio" renditions and other Neapolitan songs issue forth from a guitar, mandolin, and strolling tenor. The nautical decor (in honor of the top-notch fish dishes) is complete with a high-ceiling grotto of fishing nets, crustaceans, and a miniature three-masted schooner.

Description:

The Hotel Napoleon faces the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which hosts one of the city's largest markets every morning. Termini rail station is close by and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore can be reached on foot in a few minutes (this is one of the Catholic church's loveliest and most important churches.) A short bus ride takes you to the Colosseum, Trajan's market, the imperial forum and Piazza Venezia. The hotel is in a quiet and attractive building and the staff are extremely helpful.

Description:

This museum is small but holds a valuable collection of scientific instruments used in the study of stars throughout the ages. Here you'll find telescopes, lenses, protractors, as well as sundials, hourglasses and clocks, up to the present day. The first portable clocks, originating in the 1600s, are on display, even though they weren't very precise. The conflict between the Church and Science is also referred to in the decrees issued by the Inquisition that branded Copernicus and Galileo heretics. The museum was burgled about fifteen years ago, but the recovery of the stolen artefacts meant it could be reopened a year or so later. Arturo Wolynskia, a Polish scholar, donated the collection to the Italians in 1882. Admission is free.

Description:

With a romantic view of the city, this is a favourite for couples looking for a little peace and quiet. Good coffee is served, as well as appetising treats and a range of cocktails.

Description:

This street is one of the oldest roads in Rome; it gets its name from the trade in salt that took place with the Sabina. Over the centuries, the road was divided into the Salaria Vecchia (Old Salaria) that has, over time, lost its importance, and the Salaria Nuova (New Salaria), the current road. Traces of ancient buildings can be seen amongst the modern buildings on each side. There are also medieval remains such as the catacombs of Bassilla, an underground basilica, and the catacombs of San Panfilo, Priscilla and Santa Felicita. The Giordani cemetery is also found on this street.

Description:

Ultra-modern, spacious atmosphere with a young clientele that sometimes get out of hand. Luckily there's fast and efficient service. The pizzas are round and sold by the metre, extensive hors d'oeuvres buffet, croquettes, rice croquettes and bruschette. At lunch it's a tavola calda where lots of business people have a nice hot lunch.

Description:

The Hotel Napoleon faces the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which hosts one of the city's largest markets every morning. Termini rail station is close by and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore can be reached on foot in a few minutes (this is one of the Catholic church's loveliest and most important churches.) A short bus ride takes you to the Colosseum, Trajan's market, the imperial forum and Piazza Venezia. The hotel is in a quiet and attractive building and the staff are extremely helpful.

Description:

Porta San Sebastiano was originally known as Porta Appia but has also had other names in the past. It was built by Aurelian in 275 CE and renovated by various emperors and popes over the centuries. Today it is one of the best of Rome's conserved gateways. The most important renovation works were carried out by Emperors Arcadius, Honorius and Theodosius, although its current appearance is owed to Belisarius and Narsete from the 6th century. An inscription engraved on the inside of the gate in the 14th-century characters records the defeat of Robert of Anjou, king of Naples, in 1327. But the gate also witnessed triumphal events such as the entrance to Rome of Charles V in 1536 after his expedition to Tunisia, and of Marcantonio Colonna in 1571 returning from the victory over the Turks at the Battle of Lepanto. Inside, the Museum of the Roman Walls displays interesting information and exhibits on the development of the city walls.

Description:

Founded in the 5th century, this church stands on ancient ruins. Its shape is unique and was probably inspired by the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Throughout the centuries stucco work, marble, mosaics, courtyards and three great arches were added. A series of frescoes with chilling scenes featuring the martyrdom of many saints decorate the walls. Their purpose was to 'instruct' novices leaving for missions, so they would know that they too could meet with the same fate. The Byzantine-style mosaics were commissioned under the papacy of Theodore and show St Primo and St Feliciano at the sides of a bejewelled cross.

Description:

In all probability, this arch was the ancient Porta Celimontana of the Servian walls, the first defensive walls raised by Servius Tullius, which were later used to support the Neronian aqueduct. The single arch gateway was raised by Consuls Cornelius Dolabella (from whom it takes its name) and Junius Silanus. On the wall to the right of the arch you will see a portal with an interesting mosaic shrine built by the Cosmati in the 13th century. Dolabella Arch stands at the crossroads of the Via Claudia with the Via S. Paolo della Croce before you reach the Largo della Sanità Militare.

Description:

The walls running along Via degli Annibaldi contain a small gate that generally passes unnoticed, but is the entrance to a nymphaeum dating back to the time of Augustus. It is located underground and is dedicated to nymphs, plants and the magical atmosphere typical of woodland mythology. The interior has a stucco apse and a fountain, which was probably taken from a patrician home and is an oasis of tranquillity ideal for meditation. Phone or fax to arrange a visit.

Description:

Well-known, time-tested Roman trattoria that has been around since 1906. The atmosphere is unpretentious and the restaurant is located in a lovely part of town. Book if you want a late night meal. The menu has excellent fried starters including vegetables and gnocchi with potatoes, ricotta, carrots and spinach. There are seven types of home-made pasta and a wide variety of desserts.

Description:

In 1099 Pope Pasquale II had a chapel erected in honor of the Madonna, to commemorate the victory of the crusaders who had liberated the Holy Sepulchre. Two hundred years later, Pope Gregory IX enlarged this chapel and brought to it a painting of the Virgin, said to be by St Luke. But it was under Pope Sixtus IV that the church really took shape. Its interior presents numerous works of art, including frescoes by Pinturichhio in the Cappella Della Rovere, dramatic paintings by Caravaggio in the Cappella Cerasi, and the Cappella Chigi, designed by Raphael with sculptures by Bernini and Lorenzetti. The splendid stained-glass windows, by the French artist Guillaume de Marcillat, are unique in Rome for the period.

Description:

The collection housed in this Neo-classical building includes works from the 19th and 20th centuries. The 19th century works are mostly those of the macchiaioli (Florentine impressionist painters), a similar movement to puntinismo (pointillism), a style based on the use of spots of colour to create paintings whose subjects were distinguishable only from a certain distance. Among the 20th century artists are works from De Chirico, Carrà, Sironi, Casorati, Marini and many others. The museum often organises temporary exhibitions and has its own shop. Disabled access from via Gramsci, 71.

Our Local Expert Says:

Upon exiting the crypt, visitors encounter some chilling words: "What you are now we used to be, what we are now you will be." There is no entrance fee though donations are much appreciated by the Capuchin monk who greets you at the door.

Description:

Creepy, bizarre and completely captivating, the crypt of the Capuchin Friars is worth the venture. The crypt, or cemetery of sorts, lies under the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini. Since 1764 the bones of over 4,000 deceased Capuchin Franciscans were arranged in elaborate, decorative floor to ceiling designs spread throughout five rooms. Each room highlights certain bones, and the designs even extend onto the light fixtures. Skulls flanked by shoulder blades create angelic figures looming above on the ceiling and the final room contains the skeleton of a child grim reaper and the inscription 'what you are, we once were too and what we are now, you will be'. Morbid, but like nothing you have ever seen before or could even imagine.

Our Local Expert Says:

Typical specialties from Bolgona include tortellini, lasagna and of course the famous Bolognese sauce.

Description:

If you are longing for real home cooking, look no further than this traditional Bolognese restaurant.

Description:

The Hotel Napoleon faces the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which hosts one of the city's largest markets every morning. Termini rail station is close by and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore can be reached on foot in a few minutes (this is one of the Catholic church's loveliest and most important churches.) A short bus ride takes you to the Colosseum, Trajan's market, the imperial forum and Piazza Venezia. The hotel is in a quiet and attractive building and the staff are extremely helpful.