Rome 2006

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Description:

The Forum was designed to be the centre of social, political and economic life in the city. The innumerable remains include the well-conserved triumphal arch of Emperor Septimius Severus, with reliefs depicting his victories and the base of the Temple of Saturn with its eight columns and their splendid Ionic capitals. The 'Rostrum' is the famous platform from which Mark Antony gave his oration in Shakespeare's play after Julius Caesar's assassination. The platform became the setting for many important events in Rome's history. It was named the 'rostrum' after the bows of the ships that form the decorative motif. The Temple of Vesta was the home of the Vestal Virgins, charged with keeping the sacred flame alight. The circular foundations still remain, near to a garden in which traces of the House of the Vestal Virgins can still be seen. The Basilica of Constantine and Massentius was used as the court, and the three remaining barrel-vaulted naves give an idea of its gigantic structure. The Arch of Titus celebrates victories in Judea, and in the reliefs you can see the spoils of war, including an altar and a seven-armed chandelier.

Description:

Just south of the Roman Forum and offering a stunning view of the ancient city, this area includes imperial and patrician residences including those of the Emperor Domitian. Originally the Domus Flavia had walls completely lined with polished marble - Domitian feared assassination and in this way he could see the reflection of anyone coming towards him. The courtyard still has its fine pavement in coloured marble. Close by can be seen a number of holes, made for the posts of huts, possibly dating from the 9th century BC. It is thought that these were Rome's first huts, attributed by legend to the hand of Romulus himself. The Palatine Hill is a top site in Rome.

Description:

This restaurant, in one of the loveliest areas of the city, is in a building that has been used as an inn since 1815. The menu offers excellent Roman dishes alongside classic Italian recipes including risottos, porcini mushrooms, different types of pasta, both fish and meat dishes and cooked vegetables. The speciality of the restaurant is the truffle ice cream, which was created in 1946 by the head of the Ciampini family and is still served with the same recipe. The restaurant is loved by both Romans and tourists for its typical Roman food in a rustic setting.

Description:

No visit to Rome is complete without having seen its magnificent Colosseum, a vast amphitheatre with seating for 55,000 that was designed as a horse racing circuit and arena for animal fighting and gladiatorial battles. Upon its completion, spectacular 100-day celebrations were organized as part of the opening ceremony in 72 AD. Its name is believed to come from Nero's enormous statue of Colossus that stood close by.

Description:

This is considered such a good wine bar that you can book a table on entry. The place resembles a narrow corridor inside but it is actually quite a large room with wide tables that must be shared with other customers. Coats and hats are dumped in large nets and there are bottles all over the place. The whole is set off by the background music. There is an enormous choice of wines and the staff are very knowledgeable. There is hot food on offer including Pizzoccheri, Baccalà, savoury Vegetable Cakes and more. The slices of cheese, salami and patés are all excellent and bring out the taste of the wine.

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Description:

Enclosed by Bernini's magnificent colonnade, this square has the largest number of visitors in the world. Millions of tourists wait here either for the Pope's Sunday blessing or to enter the Basilica. More than a square, the colonnade gives it the atmosphere of a courtyard, inviting people to enter the church. During Christmas, a nativity scene and a Christmas tree are installed, and there is a remarkable atmosphere of celebration, with the majestic dome dominating the scene behind.

Description:

People come by the millions each year to receive the Pope's blessing, traditionally given on Sundays at noon. St Peter's has undergone many transformations since the original Constantine basilica of AD320. The top of its majestic dome (designed by Michelangelo), provides the best vantage point from which to marvel at Bernini's magnificent colonnade surrounding the square, the gilded bronze canopy above the altar and Michelangelo's Pietà. Bramante, Pietro da Cortona and Canova are just a handful of the many other artists who worked together on this monumental basilica's decoration and design.

Description:

Il Matriciano is a family restaurant with a devoted following and a convenient location near St. Peter's. The food is good but mostly country fare. For openers, you might enjoy a bracing zuppa di verdura (vegetable soup) or creamy ravioli di ricotta. From many dishes, we recommend scaloppa alla valdostana (chicken sautéed with ham and mushrooms in a cream sauce) or abbacchio (suckling lamb) al forno, each evocative of the region's bounty. The specialty, and our personal favorite, is bucatini matriciana, a variation on the favorite sauce in the Roman repertoire, amatriciana, richly flavored with bacon, tomatoes, and basil. Dining at the convivial tables, you're likely to see an array of Romans, including prelates and cardinals ducking out of the nearby Vatican for a meal.

Description:

The altar, commissioned by the Senate following pacification work launched by Emperor Augustus, dates from 9 BC. The first panels were found in 1500 and ended up in Paris and Florence. Made from marble and beautifully sculpted, probably by Greek artists, the panels formed an enclosure around a base with an altar in the centre. The figures are from the imperial family. Restoration work was begun in 1938. Now the altar is protected by a glass covering.

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The construction of this large tomb was undertaken by Octavian in 29 BC. It was known as the Mausoleum right from the start and was built to glorify the name and memory of Octavian and to hold the remains of the Julio-Claudian dynasty (which included Nero and Julia, the daughter of Augustus). Excavations were begun in 1936 and were completed in 1938 when the monument was finally uncovered, albeit in very poor condition. It is circular and has lost all its decoration over time. The entrance was preceded by two obelisks (now in Piazza del Quirinale and Piazza Esquilino). The first to be buried in the tomb was Marcellus who was followed by Agrippa, Drusus the elder and younger, Livia, and Tiberius. Augustus was buried there in 14 AD and Caligula had his mother Agrippina and his brothers and sisters buried there too.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Spanish Steps area is the cobblestone equivalent to Fifth Avenue in New York City or Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, with upscale shops and expensive cafes. Every spring, the steps are covered with bright flowers.

Description:

An incredible, almost theatrical square with the lovely Spanish steps leading up to the Chiesa di Trinità dei Monti. One of the most important fashion shows is held here, the steps being used as a catwalk. It is now an international meeting point. The fountain known as the 'Barcaccia' (boat) was commissioned by Urbano Barberini to commemorate the alliance made with the King of France, whose coat of arms can be seen on Trinità dei Monti. The square leads into several famous streets, Via Dei Condotti, Via Frattina and Via Borgognona with their luxurious boutiques, and Via Del Babuino with its antique shops.

Description:

Close to Campo de' Fiori, this is the classic Roman trattoria you dream of finding but rarely do. An antiques dealer, a marketing manager, an actor, and wine merchant bonded to create this simple yet warm-hearted restaurant, a cross between an old-fashioned French bistro and a Roman hosteria. All the bread, pasta, and desserts are homemade fresh daily, and the wine list of 200 different vintages comes from 20 different Italian regions. Enticing appetizers range from octopus with chick peas to Adriatic mackerel stewed in fresh tomato sauce. We prefer the grilled fish of the day, though you may opt for guinea stew fowl with capers, olives, or sweet-and-sour boar with blood-red oranges and red onions.

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Our Local Expert Says:

Lines to enter the museum are inevitable throughout the entire year. The only way to be sure to avoid them is by booking or joining a tour as the tickets are pre-purchased.

Description:

This unique art collection is exhibited in surroundings of unparalleled beauty. The magnificent Raphael Rooms are among the masterpieces of the collection, where each room is decorated with frescoes by great artists. The best known is The School of Athens, in which contemporary artists appear as classical characters (Leonardo da Vinci, for example, appears as Plato). The Sistine Chapel is the museum's finest treasure, and features Michelangelo's famous Last Judgement. He was one of many artists including Perugino, Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Pinturicchio who contributed to the chapel.

Description:

Commissioned by Marcus Agrippa, restored by Domitian, and subsequently rebuilt by Hadrian (who added the dome) before being turned into a church in the early 7th century by Pope Boniface IV. The building's sole source of light is the opening at the dome's apex (the oculus); according to popular legend, this formed the base for the bronze pinecone that is now in the Vatican's 'Pigna' courtyard, where it is used as a fountain. Many famous Italians are buried in the Pantheon, including Renaissance painter Raphael and King Vittorio Emanuele I.

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Description:

The Capitoline Museums are housed in two palaces that face each other. The one on the left of Michelangelo's steps is the New Palace, which houses one of Europe's most important collections of sculpture. It was designed by Michelangelo and became the world's first public museum in 1734 by order of Pope Clement XII. The other palace, the 'Conservatori,' houses important paintings such as Caravaggio's "St John the Baptist" and works by Titian, Veronese, Rubens and Tintoretto. A sculpture of an enormous foot that was once part of a statue of Emperor Constantine stands in the courtyard. One of the most famous pieces is unquestionably the "She-wolf", a bronze Etruscan sculpture from the 5th century BC to which the twins Romulus and Remus were added by Antonio del Pollaiolo during the Renaissance. General admission is EUR6.20, free to Italian children under 18 and seniors over 65.

Description:

This famous wine bar has a vast wine list that includes vintage wines and a quality international selection. Classic wine bar food with cheeses, pork meats and salads.

Description:

Tradition has it that throwing a coin over your left shoulder into the fountain guarantees a swift return to the world's most beautiful city. Anita Ekberg's dip in it was immortalized in Fellini's 'La Dolce Vita', and Italian actor Toto even sold it to an American, passing himself off as its owner. Earlier it was the setting for the award-winning "Three Coins in the Fountain" motion picture, ensuring its popularity worldwide. Designed by Nicola Salvi for Pope Clemente XII, it was completed in the second half of the 1700s. The statues in the centre represent Neptune supported by Tritons on either side while rococo-style Poli Palace provides the perfect backdrop.

Our Local Expert Says:

Romantic, delicious desserts

Description:

One of the most alluring places near the Vittorio Emanuele Monument is this striking restaurant done up in turn-of-the-20th-century Liberty style. You'll enjoy the creative cuisine of Romeo Caraccio (who manages the dining room) and his wife, Agata Parisella (who prepares her own version of sophisticated Roman food). Look for pasta garnished with broccoli and cauliflower and served in skate broth, as well as risotto with saffron, taleggio cheese, rabbit croquettes, and thyme. For an appetizer consider a flan of aged pecorino cheese from Sogliano with a pear sauce and chestnut honey. Yes, it sounds more like a dessert than a starter. For dessert, consider Agata's millefoglie, puff pastry stuffed with almonds and sweetened cream. There's a wine cellar with a wide choice of international and domestic wines.

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Description:

In the middle of the congested Piazza Barberini stands the Fountain of Triton, one of Bernini's finest. It shows the sea-god Triton carved into the centre of a shell. It was ordered by Pope Urban VIII Barberini, as was the other fountain in the square, the Fountain of the Bees. It takes its name from the bees of the Barberini coat of arms, sculpted into the fountain.

Our Local Expert Says:

Upon exiting the crypt, visitors encounter some chilling words: "What you are now we used to be, what we are now you will be." There is no entrance fee though donations are much appreciated by the Capuchin monk who greets you at the door.

Description:

Creepy, bizarre and completely captivating, the crypt of the Capuchin Friars is worth the venture. The crypt, or cemetery of sorts, lies under the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini. Since 1764 the bones of over 4,000 deceased Capuchin Franciscans were arranged in elaborate, decorative floor to ceiling designs spread throughout five rooms. Each room highlights certain bones, and the designs even extend onto the light fixtures. Skulls flanked by shoulder blades create angelic figures looming above on the ceiling and the final room contains the skeleton of a child grim reaper and the inscription 'what you are, we once were too and what we are now, you will be'. Morbid, but like nothing you have ever seen before or could even imagine.

Description:

These four baroque fountains, situated at each of the four corners of the crossroads of Via delle Quattro Fontane, Via del Quirinale and Via XX Settembre, depict the Tiber, recognisable by the presence of the Wolf; the Arno: the two male figures; and Diana and Juno: the females. The statues were erected at the end of the 16th century under Pope Sisto V during a period of reconstruction and embellishment of the city.

Description:

The fountain is known as Fontana Del Mosè due to the badly proportioned statue of Moses in the central arch and its amazing resemblance to the famous statue by Michelangelo. It was created as a finishing touch to the Acqua felice aqueduct, ordered by Felice Peretti, better known as Pope Sixtus V who introduced drinking water to this area. The two arches have reliefs on the side of scenes taken from the Old Testament, while the lions are copies of two Egyptian statues that are to be found in the Musei Vaticani.

Description:

This church, frequently used for state ceremonies, was founded in the mid-16th century inside the Diocletian Baths. It was built to designs by Michelangelo, who sought to minimise alterations to the original building, simply linking several different spaces and conserving the original walls and columns. A less respectful reconstruction was carried out, in honor of the holy year 1750 by Vanvitelli, who altered the angle of its positioning. Salvator Rosa and Armando Diaz are buried here. Amongst the works of art is a painting by Domenichino, to be found in the presbytery, 'The martyrdom of Saint Sebastian'. In the sacristy, Michelangelo's original designs are on show.

Description:

This restaurant specializes in cuisine from the Marches region of Italy. When the ingredients are in season, you will find Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms and various dishes seasoned with the white truffles of Acqualagna. Friday is fish day - expect dishes such as Baked Anchovies with Artichokes. During the rest of the week there are Fusilli with vegetables, Shin of Ox with Red Wine, or Spring Lamb offered simply with Parmesan cheese. The wines are all Italian with a wide selection from the Marches. The interior is attractive and fitted with air conditioning and the family-run atmosphere is friendly.

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Description:

In the 7th century a church was built in order to house the chain from Constantinople that was said that to have been one of two used to bind St Peter when he was in prison carcere mamertino. The second chain was sent to Rome at a later date and when it was brought into the church it miraculously attached itself to the other chain. You can still see these chains under the altar, and this is how the church got its name 'San Pietro in Vincoli', meaning St Peter in chains. The church is also renowned for the tomb with the famous statue of Moses by Michelangelo, which was commissioned by Pope Julius II. Richly decorated with frescoes, the interior houses works by Guercino and Giovanbattista Parodi, as well as a beautiful mosaic icon of St Sebastian from the 7th century. The cloister, built at the end of the 15th century, is also worth visiting.

Description:

Many couples choose to get married in this magnificent church on the Aventine hill, built in the 5th century under Pope Celestine I. Ever since St Domenic was welcomed in this church by Pope Honorius III in the 13th century, he has been patron of the Domenicans. A lot of the medieval decorations were lost after the late 16th century restorations, but successive restorers, above all the most recent, have tried to retrieve the original look of the church, even using specialised recovery equipment. Legend has it that in the cloister (1200), St Dominic planted Rome's first orange tree. The central doorway, which dates from the 5th century, is a masterpiece of carpentry. It was carved from cypress wood and cedar with scenes from both the Old and the New Testaments. The rear of the façade conserves only part of the highly refined mosaic-style decoration in marble, paintings and stucco, which used to cover the entire church.

Description:

You can forget good manners here and queue so as to look through the keyhole of the entrance that leads into the complex of the Order of the Knights of Malta. The curiosity is the unusual view of the dome of St. Peter's which, framed by the trees inside the garden, seems very close.

Description:

Originally this district was not all that prestigious, as it was a rubbish dump for amphorae that were shattered into fragments called 'Testae'. Testaccio still has a provincial atmosphere, and one feels that everybody knows each other. When walking over Sublicio bridge, you should remember that its predecessor, made of wooden boards, was built by order of Ancus Marcius, and it was the bridge on which Horatius Cocles fought the Etruscans. Everybody here is fond of Piazza Testaccio, used as a fruit and vegetable market and full of colour and life. The shops surrounding the square are still called by the names of the original owners, even though they may have passed on many years ago, and all this makes this market one of the most enjoyable in Rome.

Description:

This is a Protestant cemetery in a beautiful area. Several distinguished people are buried here: writer Daisy Miller, poet John Keats and his friend Joseph Severn. The ashes of Shelley, the remains of Antonio Gramsci and those of Goethe's son, Julius are also kept here. Get a map when you come in. Admission: Free

Description:

San Giovanni in Laterano is the oldest church in the world. It was founded by Pope Melchiade at the start of the 4th century on the ruins of the villa of the Roman family, the Laterani. The church's current appearance was created by Borromini for the 1650 Jubilee. Although he retained the 16th century ceiling and floor, the architect altered the appearance by joining pairs of columns in the central nave to make a single pillar inside. In this he built coloured marble niches and placed statues of the apostles. In 1735, Alessandro Galilei renewed the façade entirely in travertine stone and crowned it with 15 statues, and at the end of the 19th century the apse was also rebuilt. The admission to the basilica is free.

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Our Local Expert Says:

This ancient cobblestoned street offers visitors a glimpse into the past with its ruins and historic markings.

Description:

The ancient Appian Way was the most important of the consular roads. It was inaugurated in 312 B.C. by censor Appius Claudius Ciecus after whom it was named. The road was especially important for economic reasons as it connected Rome with the south of Italy. Initially it only went as far as Capua along the Pontine marshes, but was later extended to Benevento and then all the way to Brindisi, which encouraged trade with the eastern Mediterranean. This last stretch lost importance however when the Appia Traia Way was opened that stretched down to Bari. Lined with pines and cypress trees, the road is very attractive, particularly where the original paving can be seen. There are many remains of Roman constructions that testify to its ancient splendour and archaeological importance.

Description:

The catacombs of San Callisto, known for more than two centuries as the Church of Rome's cemetery, contain the tombs of nine popes buried in the Crypt. They extend over approximately 20km on four floors. Strangely enough, the tomb of Callisto I, martyred in 200 while celebrating a mass in Trastevere, is not to be found here. The most visited sites are obviously the papal 'crypt' and Santa Cecilia's sepulchre. These places were accidentally discovered by the scholar Giovanni Battista de Rossi, who entered a vineyard and noticed two unusual structures; one was converted into a farmhouse and the other was used as a wine shop and contained bottles of wine. Acquiring the land with the consent of Pope Pius IX and starting excavations, he found some relics, which led to the final discovery of the entire complex.

Description:

Cecilia, daughter of Metelllus, valiant conqueror of Crete and wife of Crassus, Caesar's general in Gaul, was buried on the Appia Antica. A tombstone has been placed here in memory of this noblewoman who died at a young age. The tomb was built circa 50BC and was a large cylindrical body resting on a square base built entirely from travertine stone. Passing under an archway one entered the tomb itself. The original battlements were covered by a fortress built in 1300 by the Caetani, which encased the sepulchre inside a castle (the remains of which can still be seen) The tomb became the castle's keep which comprises the church of S. Nicola (a rare example of Roman Gothic style)

Description:

The Villa Dei Quintilli is a museum as well as an archaeological site that may be visited while in Rome. The Villa belonged to the two Quintillius brothers, both senators, who were eventually beheaded. Before their tragic deaths, the wealthy brothers expanded their estate to include baths and even a hippodrome. The Villa Dei Quintilli is an archeological site of great importance and is open to visitors. The buildings are part of an archeological complex on Appian Way. Hours vary by time of year, call for details.

Description:

This is one of the most acclaimed restaurants in Rome -- and one of the very few to have a coveted Michelin star. Its 16th-century building is a classic setting in pristine white with accents of wood. The Troiano brothers turn out an inspired cuisine based on the best and freshest ingredients at the market. Start with caramelized tuna fish with chestnut honey, ginger, green pepper, rosemary, and green apple purée. Other tantalizing menu items include spaghetti with a ragout of sole, artichokes, and tuna roe; breast of guinea fowl in a mustard crust; and salt cod confit with tomatoes, spring onions, olives, Jerusalem artichokes, and eggplant.

Description:

Built atop the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, this small charmer lies near the spot where Julius Caesar met his end on the Ides of March. Intimate and refined, it's on a quiet piazzetta near the Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori. The rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned Italian style with hand-painted tiles, and the beamed ceilings date from the days of Michelangelo. The guest rooms range from small to medium, each with a tidy but cramped shower-only bathroom.

Description:

This trattoria is centrally located and is a very popular place. There are red and white checked tablecloths, creating a homey atmosphere. They offer various pasta dishes including gnocchi, lots of vegetable antipastis and excellent beef dishes.

Description:

This informal restaurant exemplifies the spirit of Testaccio, once the butchers' district and still Rome's best neighborhood for offal. Classic dishes include penne alla pajata (lamb tripe still with its mother's milk) and nervetti (tendon).

Description:

If the fact that this restaurant is packed with Roman families at all hours doesn't convince you that it's is the real deal, try the spaghetti di cacio e pepe.