Sakya Monastery (Sajia Si)

Description:

• The massive 35m (115-ft.) windowless gray walls of Lhakhang Chenmo tower above the village and fields on the southern bank of the Trum Chu. Completed in 1274, this monastery fort was largely funded by Kublai Khan, and unlike the older temples of north Sakya, it survived the Cultural Revolution. Little was left standing on the north side of the river, although a nunnery to the northeast is being revived.

  Unlike the rich and confusing pantheon seen in most Geluk temples, most images in the Assembly Hall (Dukhang) are of the historical Buddha, Sakyamuni. You'll need a flashlight to see the exquisite statuary and murals. Look for a striking 11th-century image of the "speaking" Buddha, third from the left on the back wall, with its cheeky grin. Other great works include an image of the bodhisattva Manjushri, second from the right on the back wall, leaning gently to one side, suggesting a sympathetic ear to believers. Walk around the monastery's walls, which offer fantastic views of the surrounding areas. Only 170 monks remain, but they're a young, friendly bunch. They may show you the monastery's greatest treasure -- a white conch shell, said to have housed a very early incarnation of Sakyamuni. Mountains of white kata (silk cloths) give away its location. Just south of the monastery stands a modern-looking museum that is still awaiting its collection -- ask at the monastery for the latest.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010