Infante 51

Description:

• This sleek relative newcomer serves über fresh fish and seafood dishes that are a purist's dream. The well-versed, debonair staff will guide you passionately through the menu, describing in intricate detail the origins, flavors, and even the oceanic habits of each fish. The menu is an ever-changing roll call that can feature as many as 20 specialties, ranging from white tuna and meaty but sweet kana from Easter Island, deep and earthy grilled breca from the Juan Fernandez islands, and rich and smooth cojinova austral from Puerto Montt, each simply grilled or sautéed. The focus of the dining experience is the exquisite taste of each fish, pure and unadulterated -- if you like experimental sauces and rich accompaniments this isn't the place for you. Basque chef and part owner Xabier Zabala is clearly fanatical about the chastity of taste: "I don't like girls who wear makeup," he is reputed to have said in relation to his cooking style. Even the minimalist decor, with its whitewashed walls, sober furniture, and its muted aura, is designed to not steal the glory of the fish.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010