Shanghai and the Yangtze River Delta

Description:

Even though most Chinese residents consider these morning tai chi gatherings as nothing more than "life in general," most foreign visitors are drawn to them. It represents the rare chance to witness Chinese culture without the gleam of tourist hype. Hundreds gather each morning along the Bund, a rebuilt hump of land overlooking the Huangpu River, to practice the disciplines of tai chi and kung fu. Some even take it one step further by practicing ballroom dancing, an odd sight at dawn. All "practices" are open to the public.

Our Local Expert Says:

Renmin Park is a central green space in close proximity to Shanghai's museums and Nanjing lu.

Description:

What was once a racetrack is now the beautiful Renmin Park. Renovated in keeping with Chinese design traditions, visitors can jog or work-out in the mornings, and stroll through in the evenings. A small pond with lotuses, rental boats, and a children's play area are some of the other reasons to venture here.

Description:

People's square is a large open area composed of the Shanghai Museum, The Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, The Shanghai Grand Theatre, and the municipal government buildings. It has many shops and attractions, one of them being Raffles city, a mall-like shopping center with a subway station underground. People's Square is a beautiful walk with trees and amazing photography spots of tall unique buildings and the many people always filling it. It is right next to People's Park.

Description:

This crazy street is full of eateries blazing with bright lights, emitting smells of the heavenly seafood sizzling on the burners. A trip down Huanghe Lu is essential to experience Shanghai's colorful cuisine and friendly hospitality. Looking at the chattering foodies, gobbling down the fresh catch of the day and downing bottles of local liquor, you are tempted to join in. So don't let anything stop you!

Our Local Expert Says:

This museum, nestled in the very hip People’s Square area, is home to the government’s detailed history and future hopes for the Shanghai area.

Description:

If your stay in Shanghai will be long, then the museum is worth a short daytrip, however, if you only have a few days then this propaganda and modeling center can be skipped in favor of something more up to date or lively. The first floor holds a small model of the city, covered in dust and looking dejected and lonely. The second floor is a pictorial history of the area which is worth a look-see. Some images show a side by side view of the city 30 years ago and today, which is quite amusing only if you know the city well. The third floor is where the magic happens. A model of the city stretching across some 50 yards shows every street, building and alley in fine, dusty detail. The fourth floor holds some interesting models and literature on China's first green city, to be completed outside Shanghai sometime in the future.

Description:

Located in "expatriate central," Kathleen's buzzes with foreigners homesick for Western food. Diners enjoy contemporary American fare and fine brunches. The casual and cheerful interior is trendy with a bar flanking one side of the room. The menu and staff are English-friendly. Come and dine on dishes such as pasta with feta cheese and tomatoes, burgers, burritos, Greek salad, milkshakes and desserts. Two course lunch for 100RMB, dinner for two 800-900RMB.

Description:

The Shanghai Museum, located in the Renmin Square, has a massive assortment of Chinese art, from the bronze gallery to calligraphy and paintings. The 4 floored airy building has room after room of ancient artifacts and a wonderful Tea Room to sit and have lunch. In each of the exhibits, there is a pamphlet of information that sums up the room. The museum is set up with easy to follow signs in a tour-like fashion and has little gift shops of souvenirs. From the top floor, looking down you can see the large circular design in the middle of the lobby. The top of the museum is a beautiful glass dome skylight.

Description:

One of the city's more unique lounges, this oasis in People's Park features vaulted Moroccan tents and offers style and comfort in the middle of the city. Attach yourself to a hookah, look out over the lush greenery and marvel at the brightly lit cityscape rising up in the distance.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Shanghai's marquee hotels. Worth the money

Description:

Stay in luxury at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square. This 60 storey wonder is spread over 20,000 square meters of space. In sync with all Marriott properties this hotel too offers maximum comfort to its business and leisure travelers. The 342 rooms offer magnificent views of the city and are equipped with a wide range of facilities. From high speed internet access to hydraulic massage showers, they have it all. Guests can dine at any of the hotel's restaurants on site and burn it off at the pool or fitness club. As they offer babysitting facilities, parents can have a relaxed day out touring the nearby sights.

Our Local Expert Says:

Located in Old Town, the Yu Gardens are a must see tourist shopping destination.

Description:

You can find almost anything you want in the Yu Gardens bazaar. With renovated old Chinese buildings, and winding streets full of shops and salespeople, you are sure to spend all day seeing everything. There is an antique mall that sells little trinkets, statues, jewelry, and paintings. Many restaurants can be found; among them are places for foreigners. There are also the many street food vendors for the curious. One of the most interesting shops is the 2RMB stores; the equivalent to an American dollar store.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best xiaolongbao in Shanghai!

Description:

Locally known as Ding Tai Feng, this eatery is actually a branch of a Taiwanese dumpling house, and sets to rest any doubts about the ability of Taiwanese to prepare Xiaolongbao. The sweet aroma of the Xiaolongbaos has spread internationally, and crossed the Atlantic in 1993, when an outlet opened in New York. Drop by to feast on juicy dumplings, wontons and the like. If you're by yourself and bored, you can pass the time watching chefs at work in the open kitchen.

Our Local Expert Says:

The iconic trademark tower of Shanghai has long been not only a tourist attraction, but a pillar of Chinese progress and modernization.

Description:

Though an iconic and beautiful structure in Pudong, the tower is much to look at from afar but little to see up close. Designed by Jia Huan Cheng, a Chinese national, the tower was opened to the public in 1995. It is the third tallest tower in the world, and reigned supreme from 1995-2007 as the tallest structure in China (surpassed by the Shanghai World Financial Center). One can be admitted to various spheres of the tower, including and observation sphere and a pricy revolving restaurant, an exhibition on the history of shanghai, or one can spend a small fortune to stay in the tiny hotel located in the middle sphere. Be prepares for long lines and a certain amount of shoving in order to gaze out the observation windows. If you have a longer stay in Shanghai, the Pearl Tower is worth the wait, but if your stay is minimal skip this attraction and head up to the top of Jin Mao Tower or the newer Shanghai World Financial Center.

Description:

Mesa & Manifesto is more than just your average restaurant. In addition to its elegant dining space (Mesa), it offers a stylish lounge and bar (Manifesto), a lush outdoor terrace, and a separate space for private dining, business events, or any other special occasion you might have. Here, delicious dishes created from only the freshest ingredients and infused with Eastern and Western influences make mouths water in anticipation. The modern and chic decor, along with delectable fare, make this the ultimate spot for a romantic dinner, business lunch, after-work drinks, or brunch with friends.

Our Local Expert Says:

A chic hangout spot. The fun begins with the mysterious entrance and decieving restroom doors. Check it out for your yourself!

Description:

People 7 is a relaxed lounge with an extensive bar selection and a mix of Chinese and Japanese offerings. Minimalist interiors with dull, muted lighting and cushy sofas, make this an ideal place to chill with friends or chat with your sweetheart. The food and snacks selection may not be great, but the fabulous cocktails keep the crowds coming in. For those who love interesting concoctions the house specialty is a must-frozen cocktails in test-tubes!

Description:

This venue is an oasis of music and sumptuous cocktails, seemingly imported directly from Monaco. Shanghai's hottest DJs and most beautiful people rock the MAO dance floor late into the night. The space feels like a breath of fresh air to the off-the-Bund club scene and the outdoor garden and semi-private rooms allows for a change of atmosphere within the same space.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Shanghai's marquee hotels. Worth the money

Description:

Stay in luxury at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square. This 60 storey wonder is spread over 20,000 square meters of space. In sync with all Marriott properties this hotel too offers maximum comfort to its business and leisure travelers. The 342 rooms offer magnificent views of the city and are equipped with a wide range of facilities. From high speed internet access to hydraulic massage showers, they have it all. Guests can dine at any of the hotel's restaurants on site and burn it off at the pool or fitness club. As they offer babysitting facilities, parents can have a relaxed day out touring the nearby sights.

Description:

Hangzhou is home to scenic West Lake, a mirror-perfect pool of water surrounded by weeping willows, beautiful stone arch bridges and botanical gardens. What makes the lake so memorable, however, are the people. Arrive at the lake around 6:00am and you will meet such an array of kindly elderly people that you'll want to relocate to the city permanently. These happy individuals descend on the lake every morning for tai chi, dancing, aerobics, sword play and more. In addition, meet locals having their morning tea at many of the lake-side cafes as they play checkers, cards or just chat about old times. Aside from West Lake, Hangzhou has vast silk markets, rolling scenic hills for hiking and a beautiful temple full of practicing monks and mountain-side rock carvings. Plan to spend the entire day here but do not be surprised if you end up spending more than just one.

Description:

Hunan cuisine is known for hearty portions, chili flakes and roasted, flavorful meats. Gu Yi's popularity is based on their careful orchestration of these elements, to the hollering joy of Shanghai's populace. Especially in demand is the chicken and bamboo shoot hot pot and the chili covered ribs. If you love spicy food, this place is sure to bring a tear to your eye. Those who are not so enamored will find plenty of variety on the menu as well. A second location is located on Nanjing Road.

Description:

A justifiably popular Japanese restaurant that buzzes of an evening; by contrast the décor is calm and muted in shades of navy, grey and mustard. Attention to detail such as towels in nifty little lacquered boxes and beautifully laid out plates are let down a little by disposable chopsticks and napkins. Dishes and drinks have cutesy names such as Sake-2-me and Moto-roll-ah or Pink Kimono. The service is tentative and a little slow, also dishes may not arrive at the same time as one's dining partner. However, the quality of the food more than balances this out. The lunch deals are particularly good value.

Description:

Wide, plush velvet sofas and crystal chandeliers provide the hipster crowd with a warm-as-the-womb atmosphere and great music to dance and sing along to. Decidedly the classiest joint on Julu Lu, this venue offers Hoegaarden draughts and a better than average selection of liquor.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Shanghai's marquee hotels. Worth the money

Description:

Stay in luxury at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square. This 60 storey wonder is spread over 20,000 square meters of space. In sync with all Marriott properties this hotel too offers maximum comfort to its business and leisure travelers. The 342 rooms offer magnificent views of the city and are equipped with a wide range of facilities. From high speed internet access to hydraulic massage showers, they have it all. Guests can dine at any of the hotel's restaurants on site and burn it off at the pool or fitness club. As they offer babysitting facilities, parents can have a relaxed day out touring the nearby sights.

Description:

The two-story building was once home to Chiang Kai Shek and his wife, Soong Mei Ling and later became a music school. Today, the compound is home to a restaurant and bar and stylish outdoor patio. Prime, the upscale restaurant on the second floor, is one of the classier places to enjoy a western style steak or romantic dinner for two. Sasha's famous patio attracts diners on sunny afternoons and is ideal for Sunday brunches, large events and after work gatherings. With affordable pub grub downstairs and high brow cuisine above, this spot has something for everyone- at every budget.

Description:

Hai Hai Road is not only covered in flashing lights and blinking signs, but has bars, clubs, boutiques, bookstores and some of the finest food in Shanghai. It is worth checking out if your stay in Shanghai will be longer than a few days or if you are craving food and sights from your homeland. Additionally, Huai Hai Road remains one of the best places in Shanghai to take a date, stroll arm in arm under the bright lights as you window shop, stop for coffee or drinks at a nearby bar and even entice your romantic other to dinner with the aroma of international cuisine drifting across the boulevard.

Description:

Massages by blind masseurs in China are a popular trend. These massages are said to be therapeutic for good health and extremely relaxing. This center is located in the historical old French Concession area so it is worth a walk. Kang Ning offers professional service at good standards and at a reasonable price. A massage will cost on average, CNY60, for one hour.

Description:

In the center of Shanghai's busy bar street, this charmingly tiny cafe/pub gives the visitor a feeling of having traveled back in time to colonial Shanghai, circa 1930s--a decadent time when Shanghai was known as Paris of the East. The walls are covered with nostalgic advertisements and photographs. A beautiful gramophone and other 1930s memorabilia of old Shanghai are scattered around. While quiet and empty in the afternoons, the place gets crowded in the evenings. Alcoholic beverages, coffees, and tea are professionally made or mixed for your pleasure.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most amazing and memorable experiences of any stay in Shanghai, the Huangpu River cruise is a must-see.

Description:

The best time for a river cruise along the Huangpu is of course at night. Some boats will offer dinner and drinks while others will simply sail east or west for a half hour and then turn around. Be sure to learn the details of each cruise before buying your tickets as many have had bad experiences on boats that simply circle the peer. The dinner cruises can run a bit pricy, but will take you on a very scenic tour of the Pudong and Puxi cityscapes, both of which are beautiful at night and stung up in neon lights. Shorter cruises with drinks are fun, but will not take more than an hour to two hours, so plan your evening accordingly.

Description:

A huge glittering chandelier hangs in the dining hall that talks of the royal treatment meted out here. Whampao Club has taken traditional Shanghai cuisine to a newer level. Chef Jereme Leung has recreated a unique ancient taste and spiced it up with his contemporary style, pleasing the most critical connoisseur of Chinese food. It is located at the famous Three On the Bund complex which houses many shops, art gallery and spas like the Evian Spa. Whampao Club has three tea rooms, where you can sip Oriental concoctions in proper Chinese tea-ceremony fashion. It also has six private dining areas which can be merged for a larger party. An expensive place to dine, but worth your yuan.

Our Local Expert Says:

After undergoing a facelift in Spring 2008, Bar Rouge remains one of the hottest bars on the Bund.

Description:

This newly open space at Bund 18 provides a less frenzied atmosphere than Bar Rouge to unwind, relax, and nosh on some tapas with your fanciful cocktails. Sunday to Wednesday 2pm to 12:30am; Thursday to Saturday 2pm to late.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Shanghai's marquee hotels. Worth the money

Description:

Stay in luxury at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square. This 60 storey wonder is spread over 20,000 square meters of space. In sync with all Marriott properties this hotel too offers maximum comfort to its business and leisure travelers. The 342 rooms offer magnificent views of the city and are equipped with a wide range of facilities. From high speed internet access to hydraulic massage showers, they have it all. Guests can dine at any of the hotel's restaurants on site and burn it off at the pool or fitness club. As they offer babysitting facilities, parents can have a relaxed day out touring the nearby sights.

Description:

With buildings dating back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, this water town is a true relic of the past and houses some 120 acres of ancient sights and a winding maze of alleys full of beautiful and aromatic surprises. Some 15 bridges span across the various rivers and streams that intersect the village, and many of these stone arch bridges are over 200 years old. You can easily spend an entire day in ZhouZhuang exploring the alleys and riding in rickety but masterfully piloted boats and touring the nearby Chengxu Taoist Temple. Located 30 miles south of SuZhou, this beautifully preserved water town is a must see. Bring a camera, your appetite and a good pair of walking shoes.

Description:

This stylish wine bar and shop has big glass windows to watch the world pass by. The décor is smart and along masculine lines with a palette of grays, reds, and dark woods. The focus is on great wines at decent prices, and although light tapas are available, don't go if you are starving. A Croque Monsieur was the most substantial dish available. It's buzzing even early in the week, so reservation may be necessary. Comfy chairs and a candlelit ambiance make it ideal for a first date.

Our Local Expert Says:

An expat secret and a great place to take a date.

Description:

Live jazz nightly is the hallmark of this local institution, Shanghai's longest running and still the best venue for live jazz and blues. The bands are skilled, the tunes are tight, and the informal, darkly atmospheric club often attracts standing-room-only crowds on weekends. 7pm to 2am. Live music plays from 9:30pm to midnight during the week and from 10:15pm to 1:30am on Friday and Saturday.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Shanghai's marquee hotels. Worth the money

Description:

Stay in luxury at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square. This 60 storey wonder is spread over 20,000 square meters of space. In sync with all Marriott properties this hotel too offers maximum comfort to its business and leisure travelers. The 342 rooms offer magnificent views of the city and are equipped with a wide range of facilities. From high speed internet access to hydraulic massage showers, they have it all. Guests can dine at any of the hotel's restaurants on site and burn it off at the pool or fitness club. As they offer babysitting facilities, parents can have a relaxed day out touring the nearby sights.

Description:

This temple, which was constructed in 1918, ranks as one of Shanghai's top tourist draws. The interior is heavy in the wow-factor with its classic Chinese architecture and is highlighted by a massive jade statue of Buddha. But what makes this so wildly popular is the ability to witness the temple's resident monks perform their daily ceremonies throughout its four halls. These daily "events" provide amazing first-hand insight to China's ancient religous culture. Visitors are asked to behave accordingly.

Description:

Arguably the best and most internationally renowned gallery for contemporary Chinese art, ShanghART took some time to build its reputation. The Swiss owner, Lorenz Helbling, claims he is probably the first contact for local and overseas admirers of modern Chinese art in China. The contracted artists at this gallery have shown at international exhibitions and are emancipating themselves from the stigma of being recognized as Chinese artists to being known as artists in their own right. Single and group exhibitions are featured frequently. ShanghART's website also offers regularly changing exhibitions online. Admission is free.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best Shanghai food in China!

Description:

Mei Long Zhen first opened in 1938 and is often touted as Shanghai's most famous Chinese restaurant, an icon of Shanghainese cuisine. It is also a historical site having housed the headquarters of the Chinese Communist Party in the 1930s. The interior still reflects the neo-traditional Chinese heritage. If the historical significance is not enough, the restaurant's excellently prepared food will definitely impress. Among the many favorites, Shanghainese braised beef, pork and fish are worth a try.

Description:

The road to see and be seen on for shopping, eating, pub-crawling or simply absorbing Shanghai's famous modern feel.

Description:

Plaza 66 boasts the tallest skyscraper in Puxi and is home to a sprawling shopping center complete with great eats, entertainment, shopping and hotels. Plaza 66 is a great meeting point in the middle of the bustling Jing'an district, and an ideal place for any fashion connoisseur to peruse such labels as Christian Dior, Hermes, Vuitton, Prada, Versace and more. Though shops in the Plaza 66 mall are quite high, it remains a tourism hot spot because of the beautiful architecture, glamorous advertisements and brand name goodies, as well as top food chains and its proximity to nearby sights light the Jing'an Temple, the Shanghai convention center and the Ritz Carlton.

Description:

Housed in the beautifully restored three-story building of the Ruijin Hotel, with the posh Face (bar) and Hazara (Indian restaurant), Lan Na Thai certainly holds its own. The Thai restaurant transports diners to the lush and romantically tropical ambience of Thailand. Incense, wall hangings and statues adorn the room. The decor is backed by an English-speaking staff that is polite and efficient. The chefs prepare some of the most authentic Thai food in town.

Description:

Located on the ground floor of Building 4 of the Ruijin Guest House, the posh and opulent Face Bar attracts Shanghai's beautiful people. The huge wooden faces lining the walls of this atmospheric establishment give the bar its name. Take a seat at the antique Chinese tables, or recline on the opium beds and sample the numerous, decadent alcoholic creations. For the teetotaler, the non-alcoholic lemonades are homemade and delicious. The wine list changes every few months. Happy hour is from 5:30pm until 7:30pm.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Shanghai's marquee hotels. Worth the money

Description:

Stay in luxury at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square. This 60 storey wonder is spread over 20,000 square meters of space. In sync with all Marriott properties this hotel too offers maximum comfort to its business and leisure travelers. The 342 rooms offer magnificent views of the city and are equipped with a wide range of facilities. From high speed internet access to hydraulic massage showers, they have it all. Guests can dine at any of the hotel's restaurants on site and burn it off at the pool or fitness club. As they offer babysitting facilities, parents can have a relaxed day out touring the nearby sights.

Description:

Sitting pretty atop the Pu Dong Shangri-La Hotel, this bar and hotel offers breath-taking views of the city's skyline and the Bund. The interiors are just as spectacular, with Oriental artistry dominating the ambience. With Australian, American and European cuisine on the menu, the restaurant ensures there's something to please everyone, while allowing adventurous palates to experiment. Check out the bar, done up in jade green, as you sip on some of the international spirits lining the frosty shelves. Needless to say, quality comes at a rather hefty price!

Description:

This bar is a big favorite among expatriates and travelers alike. The Sky Lounge is perched on almost the top floor of the Jin Mao Building on top of Cloud nine as they say. Only the sightseeing platform is higher. It is cozy, warm and dimly lit, but with a modern and trendy décor. It has an extensive drinks list. Thai and other Asian snacks are also available. Sweet peanuts scented with lemongrass are usually served with drinks. Excellent wines can be selected by the glass.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Shanghai's marquee hotels. Worth the money

Description:

Stay in luxury at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square. This 60 storey wonder is spread over 20,000 square meters of space. In sync with all Marriott properties this hotel too offers maximum comfort to its business and leisure travelers. The 342 rooms offer magnificent views of the city and are equipped with a wide range of facilities. From high speed internet access to hydraulic massage showers, they have it all. Guests can dine at any of the hotel's restaurants on site and burn it off at the pool or fitness club. As they offer babysitting facilities, parents can have a relaxed day out touring the nearby sights.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best dumplings in Shanghai

Description:

With a dozen or more locations, this Cantonese delight is frequented by locals and tourists alike. Famous for its dim sum, xiaolong bao, and la mian, you're sure to find something you enjoy. Nestled in the trendy Xin Tian Di area, Crystal Jade has friendly staff who are well versed in English. Make reservations in advance if you want to avoid a long wait, but if you find yourself waiting for a table, stay patient as the food is worth it. After your meal, stroll the fashionable xintiandi district under soft romantic lighting.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best place for group parties

Description:

From the bright red and green floral fabric everywhere to the customers and the wait staff, Dongbei Ren is loud. The décor is Chinese Revolutionary retro with pictures of liberators hugging every wall, while staff in pigtails or even military costumes shout out orders. Customers may sit at kangs or in themed rooms such as a North Korean room. Comfort food prevails with plenty of dumplings, breads, noodles and big caveman-like lamb shanks with an endless supply of tea and beer. One fish dish even comes with an accompanying song sung by staff members. Popular, so get there early to avoid missing out on a local favorite and a tourist must!

Description:

Rated among the best Thai restaurants in Shanghai, the deservedly popular Simply Thai boasts stylish ambience and terrific food. The menu features various curries and other traditional favorites, with a full bar. Though a bit overpriced, the experience is pleasant and the food not undeserving of renown. Recommended are the more affordable lunch specials and the terrific vegetable and rice dishes. Wonderfully decorated in charming Thai style, this intimate and cozy restaurant exudes a faint smell of incense. Beloved among its loyal clientele are the outdoor courtyard (for alfresco dining on warm nights) and the late-night drink specials. Service is English-friendly and professional and this is a classy place to take a date.

Description:

Replenish yourself at the Bi Feng Tang, while you roam around in the heart of Shanghai. With various locations around the city, this restaurant is known for its delicious dim sum. Sit on tree covered tables in the busy sidewalk and soak in the atmosphere while you dig into Spicy noodles or tasty dumplings.

Description:

Treat yourself to a taste of ethnic Nepali cuisine. Located on the culturally diverse Julu Road, this restaurant serves up some of the best authentic food of its kind. Spread across three floors, the comfortable and colorful interior decorated with ornaments, pictures, paper lanterns and cushions, is as much of a draw as the food. The staff, decked up in the traditional Nepali attire, serves you hot curries, flavorful noodles, soups and more. There is even a set menu for the herbivores, as well as a sprinkling of Tibetan and Indian fare. If you have a tough time choosing go for the restaurant's special set menu which offers all their specialties.

Description:

Dig into delicious fresh-water crab specialties at this charming local restaurant, nestled in a stone house and decorated with deep red lanterns against dark wood. One of three such joints in the region, it treats patrons to Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai variations of seafood, dumplings, dim sum, and the ubiquitous noodle. Meats come in the form of braised duck, while those who prefer a vegetarian dish can have their fill of the pout-pourri with 18 green options. If you are in China for an authentic experience, this is the place to go to savor Chinese food done to the local's tastes. Especially good are the fresh-water crab, which are a Shanghai treat, and the endless pots of flowered and gingered teas.

Description:

Brought to you by Kathleen of the KABB American bistro fame, this popular, unpretentious "just-the-drinks-ma'am" kind of bar has expanded in the last few years to seven locations, though the most popular are those at Tongren Lu and on Maoming Lu. Draft beers are reasonably priced and the grub is pretty good as well. The crowd starts off mostly foreign, which has a funny way of drawing in the locals. 11am to 2am.