The location right on Palace Square is what draws people here, but the inventive cuisine and atmosphere are what keep them coming back. Above a labyrinth of dining halls, the vaulted stone ceilings give the place the feel of a secret treasure cavern; works by local artists hang in the corridors. Each dining room is distinct in style, from the table sizes and shapes to the silverware and window coverings. When crowds are thin (more likely on a weekday or midafternoon) you can choose which room suits your mood. The menu combines imperial-era favorites like pikeperch grilled with cepe mushrooms from the surrounding forests, and more modern French-inspired favorites such as a delicately seasoned veal tartare. You can even get a $10 (£5) hamburger if nothing else on the extensive menu is appealing.
- © Frommer's 2013
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- Very Highly Recommended 2010