Pontus in the Green House

Description:

• Budding Aristotle Onassis types take young Jackie wannabes here to impress with the most expensive ingredients in Sweden -- we're talking Iranian caviar of the type enjoyed by the deposed Shah himself, as well as foie gras and truffles imported from Umbria. Set within a building whose foundations date back to the 16th century, on the western edge of Gamla Stan, this is a well-orchestrated and elegant restaurant. Just don't confuse it with a nearby clone, Pontus by the Sea (tel. 08/20-20-95), where the dining experience is roughly equivalent but less popular than this, the original and still the more sought-after of the two venues. Your dining experience might begin with a drink or aperitif in the ground-floor Greenhouse Bar, one side of which contains tables which are less grand than those of the main restaurant and a "bar menu" that's a lot less elaborate than the one that's featured upstairs. In the formal restaurant, you'll find a plush-looking late Victorian decor characterized by elaborately crafted banquettes, a monumental and highly ornate bar, touches of scarlet, and a somewhat unresponsive staff. Chef Pontus Frithiof was inspired by two of the most newsworthy chefs of England, Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay. Their influence is seen in dishes that include barbecued pikeperch with smoked herbs, crayfish terrine, and clams with aioli and fennel; a spectacular version of lamb with two sauces; or crayfish with a potato-based paella, saffron, mussels, and a shellfish sausage.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010