Introduction
Ston and Mali Ston are adjacent "blink-and-you'll-miss-them" towns at the isthmus where the Peljesac Peninsula meets the Croatian mainland about an hour northwest of Dubrovnik (58km/36 miles). However, both low-key Mali Ston and its more working-class sister Ston were important strategic locations for the Republic of Dubrovnik, which acquired them in the 14th century. The city-state's officials then built an amazing system of fortified walls and fortresses that runs straight up the southern slope of Sveti Mihaljo (St. Michael) Hill behind the town and that served to limit enemy access to the rest of the Peljesac Peninsula in medieval times.
Several sets of brick stairs -- some overgrown -- appear to lead from various streets in town to the top of the wall. These are dead ends, but not until you climb a good third of the way up. Approach from the right.
The town of Ston is a small area scored with a number of very narrow streets designed to flummox intruders. In addition to the walls, the towns prize their salt pans and oyster beds, which are still active today. Stay for dinner at one of the town's good restaurants to feast on oysters taken directly from nearby oyster beds and to drink one of the Peljesac's fine wines.
