NileGuide Expert Says:
The main pub is a great night out in itself; but for that special culinary treat, the Dining Room is hard to beat.
105 Sutherland Street
2021 Sydney, Australia
tel: 61 2 9326 2254
fax: 61 2 9363 9543
Lunch/dinner: Tues-Sun, 12pm-2.30pm & 6.30pm-10pm
In England, the Four in Hand hotel restaurant would be referred to as a Gastropub. That term always bothered me. Let's just call it a multi award winning dining room that does delicious, honest, contemporary food without breaking the bank. Period.
The dining room is not huge; it's cozily lit, modestly but tastefully furnished, while a big print of a giant squid stares down at diners. A review of the menu indicates a more refined approach to the notion of 'nose to tail' dining, with the use of cheeks, ears and bones. Apparently, the chef also grows most of the flowers and herbs on the rooftop.
Consider crisp pig's ear with crab and roast corn salad ($26). Or whole organic, 12-hour braised lamb shoulder with heirloom carrots, salsa verde and kipfler potatoes ($84, serves two). Or sucking pig with red peppers, white anchovy, beans and ham hock ($36). There's plenty of seafood too, and the wine list is as extensive as it is impressive, with many varietals (including European fortifieds) available by the glass ($9-$12).