Sydney on a budget

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Four days well spent in Sydney - a day exploring the city, a day exploring the harbor, and a couple of days on the Eastern beaches.

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Author: JHN


Day 1 - Sydney


Don't try this one if you are at all jet-lagged, because this is the day that is going to hurt. There is a lot to do, and there is only one day to do it in... so if you are fresh off the plane you might want to swap this day with day 2 or day 3 (or you might like to stretch it out over two or even three days). First things first: if you're travelling with friends, grab a taxi from the airport into town. There are hundreds of hostels in Sydney, most of which provide pretty standard accommodation. Particular concentrations are to be found around Central Station (where you might try Maze Backpackers) and around King's Cross (where Eva's is good). Central Station has the advantage of being extremely convenient to transport links, whilst King's Cross is more atmospheric, prettier, and considerably more entertaining. Having chosen a place to crash out, dump your bags - and now it is time to get into it. Before you leave however, and especially if it is summer, pack a bottle of water and some nibbles. And, as you'll be picnicking later, throw some tasties in your bag too. Time to fly! Catch a train to Hyde Park, our first stop. The basic plan today is to wander through the ring of parks that surround the historical core of Sydney. Coming out of Hyde Park train station, you'll come across the lovely ANZAC memorial - ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army corps. There are large still pools, and seats scattered around the formal gardens, typically filled with grazing and suited office workers from the skyscrapers that tower over the park, and with locals walking their dogs. Wandering through Hyde Park, you'll be shading by massive fig and plane trees, many of which are over a hundred years old and on a hot day the shade they throw is very welcome. After a while, you will notice the spire of massive St Mary's Cathedral - the heart of Sydney Catholicism - recently completed after a century of construction. You can drop in if you wish, after which keep on heading around through the parklands - by now known as The Domain. Sydneysiders tend to think of this part of town as the location of summer open air concerts. A few hundred metres on you will hit the Art Gallery of NSW, which is Sydney's premier art gallery. There is a permanent exhibition here of Australian art, which is of high quality, though lesser than that at the National Gallery in Canberra and the NGV in Melbourne. It also hosts high profile international touring extravaganzas. There is also a handy cafe if you need recharging with some energy... they do nice cakes and so on, but it is hardly a budget option. You now find yourself on the edge of the Botanical Gardens where you will be confronted by verdant greens and the fertile smell of humus. Make sure to check out the trees for hanging bats. And here too, you first views out over Sydney's famous harbour. Mrs Macquarie’s chair is a particularly nice spot to look out over the water. Sydney Harbour IS the most beautiful urban watercourse in the world (sorry San Fran locals!) And now for the most famous sights. Rounding the corner and wandering through the Botanical Gardens, you'll have your first sight of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. You can wander around the Opera House, about a 15 minute walk from Mrs MacQuarrie's chair. From here, make your way around busy ferry terminus Circular Quay (the historical heart of Sydney), and towards the MCA. A choice here - whether to take a breather in the gallery cafe or to look at more art... the choice is yours, and depends what you make of the exhibits. The Museum of Sydney is also nearby if you would rather spend your time contemplating history than art. Finally, wander over the bridge - featuring fabulous views out over the city and the water. There is a pedestrian path, which gets quite a lot of use. Try to time it so that you hit the other side sometime nearing dusk. Here, settle yourself down in Blues Park, which is under the shade of the Harbour Bridge and unpack your picnic (but make sure that you have bought this with you, as there are no shops nearby). A few beers might be nice, too. From here, you get amazing views out over the densely built CBD, the Bridge and Opera House. Later, make your way home from Milson's Point train station, about a 10 minute walk up the hill away from Blue's Point park, and back to the backpacker's and bed. Total spent? $20 on accommodation, $5 on picnic food, and $5 on train fares. Amount seen? Heaps. Nice.


1

Oaks Maestri Towers

Location:

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298 304 Sussex Street
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 92679977


2

Elizabeth Bay House

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Location:

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7 Onslow Ave
Elizabeth Bay
2011 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9356 3022


2

Museum of Sydney

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Location:

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37 Phillip St
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

9251 5988


2

Australian Centre for Photography

Location:

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257 Oxford Street
2025 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9332 1455


2

Gap (The)

Location:

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Gap Road
Watsons Bay
2030 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9255 1788


2

Rose Bay to Nielsen Park Walk

Location:

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Start at the walking track at Bayview Hill Road
2029 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9265 9333(Tourist Information)


2

Cinema Paris

Location:

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Bent Street
Moore Park
1363 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9332 1633


3

Circular Quay

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Location:

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Cahill Expressway
The Rocks
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9255 1788


4

Hyde Park

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Location:

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Elizabeth Street and College Street
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9240 8788 (Tourist Information)


5

Mrs Macquarie's Chair

Location:

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Mrs Macquarie's Road
Mrs Macquarie's Point
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9255 1788


6

Opera House to the Botanic Gardens Walk (The)

Location:

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Start at East Circular Quay
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9255 1788


7

Art Gallery of New South Wales

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Location:

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Art Gallery Road
The Domain
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9225 1744 / +1 800 67 9278 (Toll free)


8

Sydney Opera House

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Location:

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Off 2 Macquarie Street
(Circular Quay)
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9250 7111


9

Museum of Contemporary Art

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Location:

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140 George St
The Rocks
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9245 2400


10

Sydney Harbour Bridge Pylon Lookout

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Location:

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Via Cumberland Street
(The Rocks)
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9240 1100


11

Royal Botanic Gardens

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Location:

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Mrs Macquaries Road
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9231 8111


12

The Rocks

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Location:

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George Street
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9240 8500


13

St Mary's Cathedral

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Location:

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St Mary's Road
College and Cathedral sts
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9220 0400


14

Anzac War Memorial

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Location:

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Elizabeth Street
Hyde Park South
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9267 7668


15

Blues Point Reserve

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Location:

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Blues Point Road
McMahons Point
2060 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9255 1788


16

Rose Of Australia Hotel, The

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Location:

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1 Swanson Street
Erskineville
2043 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9565 1441


17

Bank Hotel

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Location:

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324 King Street
Newtown
2042 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9565 1730


18

Eva's Backpackers

Location:

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6-8 Orwell Street
2010 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9358 2185


Day 2 - Sydney


Time to chill out... take it easy in the morning, recovering from the previous day's exertions. Later, when you've caught up on some sleep and has a leisurely breakfast, it is time to make your way to Bondi Beach. The best way? Catch the 380 down Oxford Street, or else (if you are staying in King's Cross) catch the train to Bondi Junction, and then grab the bus from there). Bondi is a huge stretch of pure white sand, with (most days) great sets of breakers rolling in. Behind the beach itself, the area is quite urbanized and not lovely; however, the shore is a marvel, the people watching interesting (with a mixture of beautiful locals and pale tourists), and the ambience very relaxed. There are plenty of tourists, particularly the English, who never get much further than here - many a gap year is spent within 500 meters of Bondi Beach's charms. If it is a hot, sunny day, by all means sun yourself on the sand - but do be conscious that the sun will burn you very quickly unless you cover yourself liberally in sun lotion - and even then, be sensible. Better to ease yourself into the Australian sun than find yourself in an emergency department with sunstroke and severe dehydration... and that happens all the time. Another warning: be careful of the waves, with many spinal injuries reported each year from swimmers unfamiliar with the power of the ocean. When you have had enough of sunning yourself, you might want to stroll around Campbell Parade, the street behind the beach, and some of the streets that lead away from it. If you care to look, you will quickly find that Bondi is one of Australia's most interestingly diverse areas, with a particular concentration of Jewish people. There are plenty of cafes and supermarkets where you can grab a tasty bite to eat - use your intuition. This is Sydney, and it can seem pretty hard to find bad food. Later, take the time to head along the coast, along the famous Bondi to Bronte walk, one of the world's most spectacular urban walks. This is clearly signposted, and relatively easy to find - just head to the Southern edge of the beach. You will wend your way along beautifully weathered sandstone cliffs, with the gorgeous blue waves of the Pacific Ocean battering against them, carving interesting shapes. Heading along this path, you'll chance upon a smattering of other beaches - Bronte, a cute beach with a nice park behind it. The houses overlooking this bay are some of Sydney's most expensive, and Tamarama, which is popular with surfers and the beautiful people. If you are really persistent, you will be rewarded by Waverly Cemetery, a cemetery high on a cliff, the gravestones overlooking the Pacific. It’s a spectacular place, and you will probably have the place almost to yourself. Later in the evening you might want to head back into Bondi and have dinner at the ever present Gelbisons, which is a great little Italian place. Afterwards there are plenty of laidback bars where you can chill out before grabbing the bus back into town. Alternatively, if you find yourself craving culture, you might want to try character filled Govinda's, a Hare Krishna restaurant in King's Cross that couples with a cute little cinema that shows films which are just out of mainstream cinemas. The food is passable without being spectacular - but it is a buffet, so you can eat as much as you like! Alternatively, if you are into rock music, you might want to make the trip to the Hopetoun Hotel - the spiritual home of independent rock music in Sydney - which is a 15 minute walk from King's Cross. After the show (which will finish at midnight sharp and will probably cost less than $10 entry) reel your back up the street and end your evening in the Judgment Bar, which is free and fun.


1

Bondi Beach

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Location:

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Bondi Beach
2026 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9130 5311


2

Bondi to Coogee Coastal Walk

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Location:

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Start from Bondi Icebergs Club
Notts Avenue, Bondi Beach
2026 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9130 5311


3

Waverley Cemetery

Location:

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Saint Thomas Street
Bronte
2024 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 2 9665 4938


4

Tamarama Beach

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Location:

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Gaerloch Avenue
Tamarama
2026 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9255 1788


5

Gelbison

Location:

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10 Lamrock Avenue
Bondi Beach
2026 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9130 4042


6

Bronte Beach

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Location:

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Bronte Marive Drive
Bronte
2024 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9255 1788


7

Govinda's & Movie Room

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Location:

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112 Darlinghurst Road
Darlinghurst
2010 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9380 5155


8

Hopetoun Hotel

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Location:

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416 Bourke Street
Surry Hills
2010 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9361 5257


9

Judgement Bar

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Location:

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189 Oxford Street
Darlinghurst
2010 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9360 4831


Day 3 - Surry Hills, Sydney


You are in Sydney, and you are looking to save money, so what do you do? Well, head to the beach, silly. But today we'll try a different one, albeit in the inner East. Coogee is just as marvelous as Bondi, though less famous perhaps, and marginally less busy. It has a slightly more relaxed and less urbanized than Bondi. However, to leaven the unremitting hedonism, a visit to the Brett Whitely Gallery, which costs very little and gives a unique insight into the daily life of one of Australia's most important artists, the much loved Brett Whitely, who was perhaps Sydney's best artistic chronicler, and who died tragically young of a heroin overdose about 20 years ago. His studio has been kept in much the condition that he left it in, down to his scattered LPs. There is also an excellent collection of his paintings. This done, jump a bus (the 373 down Cleveland Street) to Coogee Beach. Spend a day on the sand. The township behind is a laidback place, and there are plenty of good options for a bite. Cheap and good is the fish'n'chip shop A Fish Called Coogee. If you want a change, you might wander through the park behind Coogee as far as Clovelly, which is an odd cemented in little bay which is actually very swimmable, and offers a great chance to see various colorful fish... for instance, there are blue gropers a couple of feet long (when one particularly famous groper was accidently speared a few years back the NSW State Premier raised the issue in parliament!) In the evening you might end up in the Coogee Bay Hotel which is immediately behind the beach. Be warned however: this bar does have a slightly rough reputation later at night. A nice alternative - get some takeout food and eat it on the sand looking out over the waves. A perfect Sydney evening.


1

Brett Whiteley Studio Museum

Location:

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2 Raper Street
Surry Hills
2010 Surry Hills, Australia

Phone:

9225 1892


2

Coogee Beach

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Location:

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Arden Street
Coogee
2034 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9665 0468


4

A Fish Called Coogee

Location:

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229 Coogee Bay Rd
2034 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9664 7700


5

Coogee Bay Hotel (The)

Location:

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253 Coogee Bay Road
Coogee
2034 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9665 0000


6

Clovelly Beach

Location:

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Clovelly Road
Clovelly
2031 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9665 0468


Day 4 - Sydney


Your last day... time to explore the beauty of the harbor a little more. Firstly, make your way to the Manly Spit - best to ask advice on this one, as it can be quite complicated to do by public transport. However the trip is worth it, because the walk from the Spit to Manly is one of Sydney's best medium length walks, and is one that is easily accessible from the city. Allow several hours so that you can take your time. The views are fabulous, wending along the jagged harborside through the wide strip of protected forest that makes up the shoreline. Eventually you'll find yourself in Manly, which is a well known beachside suburb, and a good place to grab a swim, or a bite. If the waves are high or you just a more relaxed place for a dip, trek across to Shelly Beach, which is a nearby harbor beach, and much calmer. Later, catch one of the famous Manly ferries back across the harbor - the cheapest way to see this beautiful watercourse, and as good as any. This service is most used by commuters and takes about half an hour, dropping off at Circular Quay, which is well connected to pretty much everywhere in the city. A nice relaxed way to end your time in Sydney - a movie. If you are staying in King's Cross, the nearest and best choices of cinema are The Palace Verona and The Palace Academy, just near each other on Oxford Street. They show more art house oriented films. Good choices for bars to grab a drink in afterwards are the 'three weeds', the Rose, Shamrock and Thistle, which fills with art students (the Centre of Fine Art is next door), or the laidback and classy East Village Hotel.


1

Spit Bridge to Manly Walk

Location:

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Begin at the North end of Spit Bridge
Avona Crescent, Seaforth
2092 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9977 1088


3

Sydney Harbour National Park

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Location:

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110 George Street
Cadmans Cottage, The Rocks
2000 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

1300 361 967


4

Kings Cross

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Location:

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Darlinghurst Road
2011 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

+61 (0)2 9255 1788


5

Rose Shamrock & Thistle Hotel

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Location:

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27-33 Oxford Street
Paddington
2021 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9360 4662


6

Palace Verona Bar

Location:

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17 Oxford Street
Paddington
2021 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9360 6099


7

Palace Academy Twin

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Location:

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3a Oxford Street
Paddington
2021 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9361 4453


8

East Village

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Location:

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234 Palmer Street
East Sydney
2010 Sydney, Australia

Phone:

61 2 9331 5457


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