Planning a Trip
Getting There -- After recent repairs, the drive from Tashkurgan to Kashgar is now a smooth 6-hour journey (bar the odd landslide). Roughly two-thirds of the way to Tashkurgan is Karakul Lake, over which towers the magnificent Mustagh Ata. Buses leave for Karakul and Tashkurgan starting at 9:30am at Kashgar's Diqu Bus Station. The cost is ¥52 ($6.70/£3.35). Or you could consider renting a taxi and driver for three people for ¥800 ($104/£52) for 2 days; Mohammad Tursun (tel. 01389/913-3306) is a friendly and reliable driver who speaks a little English and is usually to be found outside the Chini Bagh Hotel in Kashgar. The icy lake is surrounded by Kyrgyz yurts that take in visitors. Room and board can be negotiated for ¥40 to ¥50 ($5.20-$6.50/£2.60-£3.25) per person, but many of the locals are quite pushy. If you encounter this, just walk on; there are plenty of other yurts. The yurts that you'll come across before you get to the parking lot and official entrance of the lake are recommended and staying here will also mean you'll avoid paying the ¥50 ($6.50/£3.25) "ticket" to Karakul. You can hop on the back of a motorbike and ride around the lake for around ¥50 ($6.50/£3.25). Warning: Do not camp alone -- recently, an Italian tourist almost met an untidy end here. Returning to Kashgar from Karakul may be a little trickier; buses are supposed to stop on their way back from Tashkurgan, but they'll often plow ahead without stopping. The bus down to Kashgar should pass by around 11am, while the bus up to Tashkurgan should arrive at around 12:30 or 1pm, but check this with the locals.
Beyond Karakul is the town of Subash (Subashi), starting point for hikes to Mustagh Ata. It may be possible to stay here, as a less-touristed alternative to Karakul Lake. Beyond Subash, there is a magnificent moraine valley, a highlight of the trip. A bus runs from Tashkurgan to Kashgar at 9:30am for ¥52 ($6.70/£3.35). You can continue to Sost for ¥225 ($29/£15); the 8-hour trip arrives in town in late afternoon after many inspections.
Planning a Trip
Getting There -- After recent repairs, the drive from Tashkurgan to Kashgar is now a smooth 6-hour journey (bar the odd landslide). Roughly two-thirds of the way to Tashkurgan is Karakul Lake, over which towers the magnificent Mustagh Ata. Buses leave for Karakul and Tashkurgan starting at 9:30am at Kashgar's Diqu Bus Station. The cost is ¥52 ($6.70/£3.35). Or you could consider renting a taxi and driver for three people for ¥800 ($104/£52) for 2 days; Mohammad Tursun (tel. 01389/913-3306) is a friendly and reliable driver who speaks a little English and is usually to be found outside the Chini Bagh Hotel in Kashgar. The icy lake is surrounded by Kyrgyz yurts that take in visitors. Room and board can be negotiated for ¥40 to ¥50 ($5.20-$6.50/£2.60-£3.25) per person, but many of the locals are quite pushy. If you encounter this, just walk on; there are plenty of other yurts. The yurts that you'll come across before you get to the parking lot and official entrance of the lake are recommended and staying here will also mean you'll avoid paying the ¥50 ($6.50/£3.25) "ticket" to Karakul. You can hop on the back of a motorbike and ride around the lake for around ¥50 ($6.50/£3.25). Warning: Do not camp alone -- recently, an Italian tourist almost met an untidy end here. Returning to Kashgar from Karakul may be a little trickier; buses are supposed to stop on their way back from Tashkurgan, but they'll often plow ahead without stopping. The bus down to Kashgar should pass by around 11am, while the bus up to Tashkurgan should arrive at around 12:30 or 1pm, but check this with the locals.
Beyond Karakul is the town of Subash (Subashi), starting point for hikes to Mustagh Ata. It may be possible to stay here, as a less-touristed alternative to Karakul Lake. Beyond Subash, there is a magnificent moraine valley, a highlight of the trip. A bus runs from Tashkurgan to Kashgar at 9:30am for ¥52 ($6.70/£3.35). You can continue to Sost for ¥225 ($29/£15); the 8-hour trip arrives in town in late afternoon after many inspections.
