Honoji

Description:

• A plain wooden facade and a stark interior of concrete walls with wire-mesh screens set the mood for good, home-style Japanese cooking. Although it looks small at first glance (an open kitchen takes up half the space), quiet back-room nooks give diners a sense of privacy as they enjoy grilled fish, sashimi, yakitori, grilled eggplant with miso, stir-fried dishes such as cabbage with oyster sauce, and seasoned pork with potatoes. Honoji serves the kinds of food offered by neighborhood nomiya (drinking establishments) all over Japan, which isn't exactly the kind of fare you'd expect in trendy Roppongi (you may, however, wish to steer clear of the grilled cow diaphragm with salt and the whale or horse sashimi listed on the English-language menu). Still, the crowds that wait at the door, especially on weekend nights, attest to its success. Note: There's a dinner table charge of ¥380 ($3.15/£1.60), though I was told it will be waived if foreigners don't like the snack that comes with it. The lunch teishoku, available for ¥900 ($7.45/£3.80) and the only item offered for lunch, draws Japanese from all walks of life.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010