Tokyo: Ancient to Modern

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Located in the Asakusa shopping and nightlife district, the four story Kikuya Ryokan provides an inexpensive base for both sightseeing and business. Asakusa Kannon Temple and the Kappabashi Shopping Street are attractions near at hand. Only Japanese style rooms are available, with and without private bath.

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If you see just one temple in Tokyo, make it this one. Settled in Tokyo's historic heart, Asakusa, impressive, colorful Senso-ji temple feels larger than life. The walk up to Senso-ji should be taken at a leisurely pace, perusing the quaint street stalls and nibbling on snacks made fresh in front of you. Plus, Asakusa is the place in Tokyo to stock up on all those traditional trinkets and crafts you'll want to bring home.

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A millennium ago so the legend goes, the Hirokuma brothers found the statue of Kannon (the Bodhisattva of Mercy--the deity alleged to have great powers in purifying people and granting them true happiness) in their fishing nets and the village chief dutifully enshrined it.

The Asakusa Shrine was thus established in 1649 and the 3 persons in the legend were consecrated as gods of the shrine, hereby earning it the nickname Sanja-sama (the shrine of the 3 gods). Undoubtedly the most famous shrine in Tokyo, it also hosts the Sanja Festival in May.

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What better way to see the bayside city of Tokyo than from the water? Several different ferry lines crisscross Tokyo Bay to provide stunning vistas of the waterfront, as well as fun transportation between the shore and the island of Odaiba. For a leisurely bay tour, take the full cruise from Hinode Pier. For something more modern and definitively Tokyo, take the sleek Himiko (a mix between submarine and sun room, designed by Reiji Matsumoto) on the Asakusa-Odaiba direct line.

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Those who like to watch their meal being prepared will be pleased with Icho. A popular Japanese barbecue can be enjoyed while pondering the stately landscaped garden. Seating capacity is 32 and there is a good view of the teppanyaki chef. The à la carte menu includes fresh lobster for JPY5,000. There are set luncheon courses at JPY5,000 and JPY10,000 and dinner courses from JPY10,000 to JPY20,000. Beer is JPY850; and a glass of wine is JPY1,300. Bottles of wine begin at JPY6,000.

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Aside from braving Tokyo's infamous traffic tangle to drive across it, there are two ways to tackle Rainbow Bridge: by monorail or on foot. The driverless monorail is a blast for any tech enthusiast, as it swiftly transports you across the bridge to ultra-modern Odaiba. But, the best way to catch uninterrupted panoramas of Tokyo's waterfront is to simply walk across the bridge, preferably at dusk, when the city just begins its nightly illumination. Careful though: the walkway closes at 8pm.

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Located in the famous Tokyo Tsukiji Market Building, Daiwa serves fresh, quality Sushi at reasonable prices. The Zagat Survey rated it the top Sushi bar in Tokyo and is a favorite among locals. The restaurant is small, so expect a line.

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This temple was established in 1617 in the Yoshiwara area of Tokyo. It was relocated to Tsukiji after the great fire of 1657. The current architecture resembles India's Hindu-style and was designed by Chuta Ota in 1935. Once a major complex of over fifty temples, Tsukiji Honganji is now noted for being the biggest temple in Japan made entirely of stone. A famous Edo Period artist, Hoitsu Sakai (1761-1828), is buried here.

Admission: Free

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Well known for its festival (celebrated once every three years), this shrine is dedicated to Sumiyoshi Myojin--the Shinto deity of fishermen and ocean travelers. Featuring an enormous gate covered in copper plate, this rather plain building has quite splendid rafters (in chigi style). There are nearly 2,000 Sumiyoshi shrines scattered throughout Japan. It is believed that Empress Jingu established Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine (south of Osaka) to guard her during her invasion of Korea.

Admission: Free

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Located in the east of the city, Tokyo Station handles a vast array of commuter trains running north, south, east and west. All trains are color-coded to match the lines on which they run. Most lines run local, rapid and express trains. Tokyo Station is also the terminal for bullet trains running to all corners of the country. Tickets for these may be purchased at all major JR stations at the 'Midori madoguchi' (Green Window). It is best to make a seat reservation in advance. Call the number below for JR East Information in English, 9a-6p Monday-Friday.

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This might not be everybody's peak experience, but the run around the Imperial Palace could be second best and a whole lot easier than climbing Mout Fuji. The 5km plus-a-few-meters course takes participants around the Imperial Palace, passing near the Marunouchi business district, the Budokan, venue to sports and concerts, the British Embassy and Hibya Park. There is even an annual charity team-relay run that does the distance and is organized by the Japan Times. For those who require a more leisurely pace, there are plenty of things to look at while you complete the circuit.

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The Japanese people take their monarchy seriously, and Tokyo's Imperial Palace, home to the royal family, gives a sense of just how venerated they are. On first approaching the Imperial Palace, one might be disappointed by the total restriction of access to the grounds. It's important to remember, however, that this is where the emperor and his family live, and it's enough to be able to visit the immaculate gardens adjacent to the palace, gazing at the ancient, imposing palace walls and partaking of the latest gossip on the country's favorite family. Come to the Imperial Palace on the 23rd of December for the emperor's birthday, or on New Year's Day, and you'll be granted access inside and treated to a speech by the man himself.

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Perhaps the most famous meeting spot for people in Tokyo is this life-sized statue of a very loyal Akita dog in front of Shibuya Station. Hachiko used to walk with his master, Professor Ueno of the University of Tokyo, to the station each morning and home each evening. In May 1925, the professor died while at work; the dog patiently waited for his master that day, came back again the next day, and the next. For 10 years he waited for his master's return. Hachiko's stuffed body is now in the National Science Museum, Ueno.

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Any traveler's image of Tokyo must include the jumbo-trons and neon signs illuminating the thick crowd flooding Hachiko crossing in Shibuya. But there's more to Shibuya than just crowds; it's full of funky shops, off-beat restaurants, and cozy bars that highlight the neighborhood's slightly alternative feel. Don't forget to snap your requisite photo with Hachiko, the statue of the dog in front of Shibuya station; it's Tokyo's number one meeting spot.

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Tokyo is a city where fashion is taken seriously. It comes as no surprise then that the buildings are also dressed - for success. The Dior Omotesando Building is one such example. Wrapped in a sheath of skin, this four storeyed creation by Sejima and Nishizawa, is more like a glass box. Designers and other brands jostle for office space within as passersby and tourists take time to admire the architectural beauty from outside. But the best part is yet to come. The dressing rooms have no mirrors but computer screens, which take pictures of the customer and display it on the screens.

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Gothic lolitas and cosplay kids come out to strut their stuff every weekend on Harajuku's Cosplay Bridge, right between Harajuku and Yoyogi Park. Harajuku is the epicenter of Tokyo's vibrant youth culture, and plenty of fashion houses and entertainment venues tickle the fancy of trend-hungry hipsters. Nekko Dori (Cat Street) is filled with high fashion boutiques and vintage stores, with prices to match. Or, head down Omotesando Dori for some more grown up shopping. Pictures with your favorite kids in costume are generally graciously accepted, but do be sure to ask first.

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This naturally wooded park adjoins the Meiji Jingu Shrine, and until 1996 was the venue for Tokyo's amateur rock and roll bands to show their stuff every Sunday. They have since moved to Omotesando, and Yoyogi Park has become quiet, and ideal for lovers and families who like to enjoy a tranquil Sunday afternoon with each other on the grass and strolling by tranquil ponds filled with koi (Japanese carp). Rental bicycles are available within the grounds during summer for JPY500/hour.

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Ever heard of the Meiji Restoration? Tokyo's most important shrine (Meiji-jingu; Meiji Shrine) honors the man who opened Tokyo and Japan to western culture. The immaculate shrine provides some "real Japan" flavor, smack dab in the middle of Tokyo, near Shibuya, Omotesando, and Harajuku. It's an extremely popular spot for traditional Japanese wedding ceremonies, so you don't even have to be that lucky to catch a gorgeously decked-out procession making its slow way across the plaza. The spacious shrine grounds are situated right next to Yoyogi Park, Tokyo's largest, which is also a must-visit destination for taking in some much-needed greenery. Rent a bike to catch all the park's beauty and oddball characters in one easy ride.

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A hut site from the Jomon era (8,000 BC) was unearthed at the Yoyogi grounds in 1950. A model of such a hut is now on view while some of the excavated pieces are exhibited in the main temple hall. The shrine was founded by a retainer of Minamoto no Yoritomo, after a dream of his in which an auspicious mirror appeared. The Minamoto family is associated with Hachimangu shrines.

Admission: Free

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This classy restaurant has an atmosphere of warmth and comfort like it was any other neighborhood grill. The dishes are pretty uncomplicated, with emphasis on the Izakaya type of cuisine, which are generally the small fares served in typical Japanese bars. Only here, the environs are a little more chic. The menu consists of the charcoal grilled seafood and meat dishes and a range of 12 sakes to choose from. You can get yourself one of the window seats on the 50th floor and gaze down at the bustling life of Tokyo, while gorging on the best of Japanese open-grill delicacies!

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Yebisu Garden Place is a skyscraper complex with beautiful views and something to please every palate. With a large variety of restaurants and watering holes, pick your pleasure from the food and drinks on display at the entrance of each location. A large collection of Japanese, Western and tavern-type establishments exist here and each operates independently, so check with the staff for opening and closing times.

Our Local Expert Says:

The tasting room here is one of Tokyo's best opportunities for sampling fine beer at a reasonable price.

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At this museum, beer culture enthusiasts will enjoy a virtual reality tour of a brewery! Beer was introduced into Japan during the Meiji Era and Tokyo's first beer hall opened in 1899. Beer drinkers have never looked back and consumption has now surpassed that of sake. Exhibits describing the history of beer manufacture in the west plus liquid samples of Suntory's version are the main attractions at this museum. See website for visitor info. Admission: Free

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Ebisu Garden Place, named for Ebisu, the Japanese god of commerce, is a hub for western businesses and this location is one of its ultra modern showplaces. The Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography's museum shop has a good selection of photo books as well as catalogs from past exhibitions of the museum. If you only want to visit the museum shop there is no cost. Admission: The museum itself has three galleries--the cost for visiting the regular exhibition is JPY500, the special exhibition JPY600, or both for JPY1,000. Children are half price.

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Miyaku, is a diner where Japanese menu is served at its authentic best. Located within the famous Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-so, this restaurant is filled with Japanese food lovers. Get the taste of this world renowned cuisine in a place where excellent service is a norm and delicious food is but second nature. Special menus for children and teens, make this a complete family diner. Hop in for a gastronomic ride through sashimi, steaks, Tempura and Zen cuisine. Wooden furnishing and usage of pastel colors, create a warm ambiance. A must visit for its simplistic authenticity.

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At the Tableaux Lounge you can listen to some soul-stirring jazz while taking in the aroma of perfect Cuban cigars or eat a sumptuous meal accompanied by some great French, Italian or American wines. You'll find ad agency hot shots, international brokers and embassy big-wigs here schmoozing and puffing away at their Cubans. Jazz lullaby's and love songs rendered artfully on the baby grand tinkle in the background of conversations.

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Tokyo's oldest public park in down-home Ueno is a sprawling, well-kept, and beautiful destination for a pleasant morning stroll, especially during hanami (cherry blossom viewing) season. It's also a logical choice for the culture vulture, since it's home to numerous temples and shrines, as well as the National Museum. If you wish, you can also rent a boat to tour the large pond at the park's south end. Ueno Park's mix of museums, historical attractions, and natural beauty can't be beat in Tokyo.

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Known more because it was not destroyed in the conflagration of the civil war of 1868 rather than for its supposed resemblance to Kyoto's Kiyomizudera is this Tokyo version which Tenkai, Kaneiji's first abbot, had constructed in 1631 to pay homage to the Kannon of the 1,000 arms. The dolls on view here represent gratitude from couples who became fertile after praying to Kannon's image. Admission: Free

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Benten, the goddess of Lake Biwa is honored here. The first abbot, named Tenkai, arranged for a shrine for the lute-playing goddess to be placed on the small island in the middle of Shinobazu Pond. The main hall on the site has been rebuilt since its destruction during the Pacific War. Here the incense of Buddhism and the shrine arch of Shinto co-exist.

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The Tokyo National Museum displays sculptures, paintings, calligraphical and archaeological objects, and other decorative arts. Broadly divided into Japanese, Chinese and Korean forms, the museum's collections are nothing but an artistic preservation of Asian history and culture. Exhibitions, lectures and gallery talks are held regularly, so visitors can gain access to some valuable information about the world's largest continent—the museum also stores historical documents dating back to the 10th and 11th centuries.

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This huge, two-building general science museum was established in 1877 and covers a wide variety of scientific knowledge including the evolution of living things, the Earth's formative history, nature, and astronomy. It has on display a giant dinosaur fossil, a moon rock and the stuffed body of Hachiko, the famous loyal Akita dog. If you cannot read Japanese, bring along a Japanese friend who can translate things for you. Otherwise, the range of sites to see will be limited.

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Slip into the atmosphere of a working class neighborhood set in the pre 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake days. A mural on the landing between the first and second floors depicts peddlers, artisans and blue-collar workers going about their daily life during the Edo period. The extensive display of household items gives a fascinating peek into a lifestyle from days gone by. The exhibits have no explanations in English, but an English language guide is available for JPY500. Guide dogs are permitted and there are wheelchair toilets on two floors. Admission: JPY200

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This 100-year-old zoo is the first in Japan to have Giant Pandas and they are cutely named Lingling, Huanghuang and Tongtong, which really suits their cuddliness. They are fed at 3.30pm and spectators gather and take pictures. You can also see baby Siberian tigers, monkeys, gorillas, giraffes and other animals from all over the world. A monorail links the two separate areas and there is a children's petting zoo at the southern end.

Admission: JPY600

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Akihabara is known as denki machi or Electric Town in Tokyo. All manner of electrical appliances, from washing machines to refrigerators, and from stereo and audiovisual equipment to fax machines, can be found here. There are also a number of shops selling computer hardware and software. Visitors to Japan will want to bring their passports along with them to purchase duty free products. Appliances with a range of voltages to suit different countries are available.

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This is the big one! Directly across from the JR Akihabara Station, this store houses seven floors and two buildings jammed full of every cell phone, MD player, hi-fi system, television, VCR, etc., that you could possibly want or find. The prices here are not the bargains you can get a couple streets away, but the selection is matchless. For one-stop shopping and complete inventory, Sato Musen cannot be beat!

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Located in Ochanomizu (Akihabara) with other branches in Nihonbashi (Ginza) and Akasaka, Franziskaner Bar & Grill is a delightful German eatery and beer hall. The three story building is decorated in a rustic style, with lots of light wood paneling and exposed stone, against cream colored walls. Stained glass windows add to the European feel. On the menu you will find thick sausages, spaetzle, venison, and of course, the crowning achievement: a wide variety of European beers, both on tap and in bottles. The place is always cheery, filled with boisterous patrons, so grab a couple friends and make a night of it.

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Jakotsu-yu is an Edo Period sento (public bath) in the historic Asakusa area. The water here, drawn from a deep well, flows into the baths the color of brown tea and is kept at a traditional 45 degrees Centigrade, the time-honored temperature of Japanese baths. While water at this temperature must be entered cautiously, and takes a few moments to adjust to, no tense muscles can withstand it for more than a few seconds. Jakotsu-yu has a quaint outdoor bath in a small enclosure hung with lamps. There is also a spacious sauna where you can sweat out for an extra JPY400.