Since opening in 1997, the popularity of this award-winning trendsetter hasn't flagged. The dining room is a cool white space with painted steel and lots of glass; the waterside location on False Creek is sublime (book an outside table if the weather is fine). Ingredients make all the difference here: The chef and his highly knowledgeable staff can tell you not only where every product comes from, but also the name of the boat or farm. Expect exquisite surprises and imaginative preparations: For appetizers, sample the fresh B.C. oysters with tongue-tingling sauces, "pulled" trout salad, or salmon cannelloni. Mains are artfully created and might include pan-roasted sablefish wrapped in prosciutto or seared scallops with maple glaze. Give chef Robert Clark a chance to show off, and order the six-course tasting menu (or the "Ethical Luxury" tasting menu) as you watch the sun set over the marina. Excellent wine pairings, too.
- © Frommer's 2013
- Very Highly Recommended 2010