Venice 2007



Description:

We first visited Venice in November 1999. It's probably our favorite place away from home: every inch of the city is interesting and beautiful and completely walkable (no cars!), the people have a distinct local character that's survived centuries of tourism, and the food, probably Italy's most underrated, is excellent, usually unpretentious, and completely of its place. When we came back we made sure to visit all our old favorites, and we made time for the Bienniale.

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Author: Dave Schweisguth


Enoteca Mascareta

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Location:

5183 Castello
Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa
30123 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 39 41 523 0744
fax: 39 41 523 0744


Cantina Do Mori

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Location:

San Polo, 429
Rialto
30121 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 39 41 522 5401


Cantinone Gia Schiavi/Vini al Bottegon

Location:

Dorsoduro 992
Fondamenta Nani
Venice, IT

Contact:

tel: 041/5285163


Da Romano

Location:

Burano, IT


Gelateria Nico

Location:

Dorsoduro 922
Venice, IT


Day 1 - Venice


Arrive in time to check in before dinner at Ristorante Riviera, our favorite restaurant from last visit. The restaurant is still there, along with the same friendly staff as last time! After dinner, a late walk around the city, through Dorsoduro to the Rialto, to Piazza San Marco and then home.


1

Pensione Accademia

Location:

Dorsoduro 1058
Fondamenta Bollani, west of the Accademia Bridge
30123 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-521-0188
fax: 041-523-9152


2

Riviera

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Location:

Dorsoduro, 1473-30123
30122 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 39 41 522 7621
fax: +39 041 244 7724


3

Ponte di Rialto

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Location:

Ruga degli Orefici (Rialto)
30125 Venice, Italy


4

Piazza San Marco

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Location:

St. Mark's Square
30124 Venice, Italy


Day 2 - Venice


A guidebook mentioned that Katharine Hepburn's character stayed in the Pensione Accademia in "Summertime". Watching the movie just after returning from Venice, we didn't think so, but we're pretty sure there was a shot or two in Pensione Accademia's rear courtyard. Just down the Rio San Trovaso (the canal) from the hotel is the great Cantinone gia Schiavi, a regular stop. Today is just for walking around and taking in the city. We've been here before and visited the Doge's palace and the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim, so you won't find those landmarks on this trip. But San Marco is free and always open and always worth a stop.


1

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

Location:

Sestiere Dorsoduro, 2617
Dorsoduro
2617 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 41 528 9420


2

Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Confraternity of St. Roch)

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Location:

San Polo 3058
On Campo San Rocco adjacent to Campo dei Frari
30125 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-523-4864
fax: +39 41 524 2820


3

Osteria Antico Dolo

Location:

San Polo 778,
Ruga Rialto
30124 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 39 41 522 6546


4

San Giacomo di Rialto

Location:

Campo San Polo
30123 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: + 39 (0)41 529 8711 (Tourist Information)


5

Basilica di San Marco

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Location:

San Marco 328
Piazza San Marco
30124 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 0412413817
fax: +39 41 520 8289


Day 3 - Venice


Off to Torcello to see Venice's most spectacular mosaics in that island's basilica. Visit the campanile as well for a great view of the northern islands. The bell rang while we were at the top; the whole room shook! On the way back, lunch in Burano and then a stop in Murano for more mosaics at San Donato. Never mind the lace or the glass.


1

Basilica di S. Maria Assunta - Torcello

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Location:

Isola di Torcelo
30100 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 41 270 2464


2

Basilica di S.M. Assunta di Torcello - Campanile

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Location:

Isola di Torcelo, Nord 12/14
30100 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 041 730 119


3

Burano

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Location:

Laguna Nord
30012 Venice, Italy


5

Murano

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Location:

Isola di Murano
30141 Venice, Italy


6

Basilica di San Donato-Murano

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Location:

11 Campo San Donato
30100 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 41 73 9056


Day 4 - Venice


Pick up Bienniale tickets in the Giardini at 10 AM. The Bienniale, Venice's famous show of contemporary art, ends in late November. If you don't need to see it early and impress your friends, November is the perfect time to visit, with less crowds and cool weather. The Biennale is held in two locations in east Venice: the Giardini, the gardens permanently given over to the show, and the Arsenale, Venice's ancient shipyard. Bienniale tickets are good for one day in each location. Today is Giardini day. The Giardini has a permanent pavilion for each of the original participating countries. Many of them are as architecturally interesting as the art in the show. Hungary's mosaic-encrusted arts and crafts palace is especially impressive. Al Covo, one of Venice's finest restaurants, is conveniently not far from the Giardini. We went today since it's closed Wednesday.


1

Al Covo

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Location:

Castello 3968
Campiello della Pescheria, east of Chiesa della Pietà in the Arsenale neighborhood
30122 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-522-3812


Day 5 - Venice


Back to the Bienniale, this time in the Arsenale. The Arsenale itself is fascinating: not inside the long hallways of the Corderie where the exhibition takes place, but outside, among the cranes and docks of the shipyard. The best of the Bienniale is the China exhibit, in a brick building filled with ancient riveted oil tanks. Corte Sconta is a great traditional fish-focused restaurant with a menu that seems to come right off the boat. Tipped off by our dining neighbors at Al Covo yesterday, we brushed off the hard sell on the large and expensive antipasto di frutti di mare and put together a nicely sized and excellent lunch on our own.


1

Ristorante Corte Sconta

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Location:

Calle del Pestrin 3886
30124 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-522-7024


2

Da Fiore

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Location:

Calle del Scaleter, 2202
30121 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 39 41 72 1308


Day 7 - Venice


Back to walking the city and seeing whatever we like. As when we were last here, Venice was preparing for the festival of the Madonna della Salute, who protected Venice from the Black Death. For most of the year, there are three bridges over the Grand Canal: the Accademia bridge, the Rialto bridge, and the bridge near Piazzale Roma. But for the week or so around this festival, there is a pontoon bridge that connects Campo del Traghetto in San Marco to Santa Maria della Salute in Dorsoduro. We'll miss the festival, but we got to enjoy the bridge.


1

Chiesa di San Rocco

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Location:

Campo San Polo
30121 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 41 522 2637
fax: +39 041 523 0399(Tourist Information)


2

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Church of the Frari)

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Location:

San Polo 3072
On Campo dei Frari
30125 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-522-2637
fax: +39 041 275 0578


3

Museo Correr

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Location:

Piazza San Marco 52
(Ala napoleonica)
30124 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 41 522 5625 / +39 41 240 5211
fax: +39 041 520 0935


4

Santa Maria della Salute

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Location:

Campo della Salute
30124 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: +39 0412743911


Day 8 - Venice


Another day of sightseeing. degli Schiavoni, home to a set of Carpaccios still in the fraternal setting for which they were painted, stood out as one of the finest artistic sights in Venice. Fiaschetteria Toscana is another great traditional Venentian restaurant. Alle Testiere is a more modern restaurant that still upholds the Venetian principles of fresh local food cooked in a way that maintains its character.


1

Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni

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Location:

Castello 3259
Calle Furlani
30122 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-522-8828
fax: +39 041 520 8446


2

Fiaschetteria Toscana

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Location:

Cannaregio 5719
Salizzada San Giovanni
30121 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-528-5281
fax: +39 041 528 5521


3

SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Location:

Castello 6363
On Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo
30122 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041-523-7510


4

Osteria alle Testiere

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Location:

Castello 5801
On Calle del Mondo Novo off Salizzada San Lio
30122 Venice, Italy

Contact:

tel: 041/522-7220


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