Venice 2007

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

Located around the Maritime station at the end of Zattere opposite Mulino Stucky (in front of the other part of the canal naturally.) The place offers a cordial welcome without being exaggerated and the atmosphere is warm and familiar as is always the case in Venice. The cuisine offers traditional, typical dishes with a few innovations that are not too over the top. Plenty of vegetables are used to give the dishes flavour. Good wine list and desserts especially the traditional ones.

Our Local Expert Says:

For many Venetians the Rialto Bridge means they’ve almost made it to San Marco square, as there are a few short cuts, known well by locals, from the Rialto straight through the winding alleyways to Campo San Marco.

Description:

Ponte di Rialto is Venice's most famous bridge arching over the Grande Canal, known as a commercial area of the city with the busy Rialto Market nearby, filled with bright colored fruits, vegetables and fish (only open in the morning), and souvenir shops lined up and down the bridge itself. After its construction in 1591, the Rialto Bridge remained as the only bridge connecting the two sides of "the fish" called Venice for almost 300 years. The Ponte di Rialto is perfect for shopping or strolling along with gelato in hand while gazing off the bridge at the passing gondoliers and boats, and postcard perfect shots of the orange buildings & green water against the pink sky at sunset.

Our Local Expert Says:

The real question is whether there are more people or pigeons in this lively square. Stands are available to buy feed for these overly friendly birds, which can be a fun experience for kid and adult alike. However, for the more romantic side of this charming piazza, come at night and listen to the bands and orchestra's lining the sides. You have the option to bring your own dance partner or find one there!

Description:

Encased in a trapezoidal shape by the Basilica di San Marco, the Palazzo Ducale , Museo Correr, and the Torre dell'Orologio, your first view of the breathtaking Piazza San Marco will never be forgotten. Popular with photo snapping tourists and children chasing and feeding the pigeons, Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark's Square, is the biggest (at 175 meters long) and liveliest square in the center of Venice. Expensive restaurants and shops line this square which hosts many of the city's festivals (Carnival in February, for one) and concerts. Also enclosed within the square is the San Marco Campanile with the Palazzo dei Prigioni and the Bridge of Sighs just a few steps away. As one of the main attractions of Venice, it is not to be missed! Basilica di San Marco

Description:

The two facades of this building are attributed to Longhena, so it can be assumed that it was built in the seventeenth century. The brotherhood of the Virgin of Carmel was very powerful in seventeenth-century Venice, and is still dedicated to works of charity nowadays. A pictorial cycle of nine paintings can be admired inside, dedicated to the 'Madonna del Carmine' and painted by Giambattista Tiepolo. There is also a painting by Padovanino.

Description:

Jacopo Robusti (1518-94), called Tintoretto because his father was a dyer, was a devout, unworldly man who only traveled once beyond Venice. His epic canvases are filled with phantasmagoric light and intense, mystical spirituality. This museum is a dazzling monument to his work -- it holds the largest collection of his images anywhere. The series of the more than 50 dark and dramatic works took the artist more than 20 years to complete, making this the richest of the many confraternity guilds or scuole that once flourished in Venice.

Begin upstairs in the Sala dell'Albergo, where the most notable of the enormous, powerful canvases is the moving La Crocifissione (The Crucifixion). In the center of the gilt ceiling of the great hall, also upstairs, is Il Serpente di Bronzo (The Bronze Snake). Among the eight huge, sweeping paintings downstairs -- each depicting a scene from the New Testament -- La Strage degli Innocenti (The Slaughter of the Innocents) is the most noteworthy, so full of dramatic urgency and energy that the figures seem almost to tumble out of the frame. As you enter the room, it's on the opposite wall at the far end of the room.

There's a useful guide to the paintings posted inside on the wall just before the entrance to the museum. There are a few Tiepolos among the paintings, as well as a solitary work by Titian. The works on or near the staircase are not by Tintoretto.

Description:

The atmosphere of this old restaurant is homely and intimate; and features a small and cozy dining room with just a few tables. The menu is traditionally Venetian with an excellent selection of Sausages and high-quality Meat and Fish choices. The Tagliolini with Scampi makes a perfect starter; then try the Hand-Whipped Cod for your main course. Booking is advisable due to popularity and limited seating, especially in the evening.

Description:

If you get lost in the Rialto market, ask someone from San Giacometo for directions. Above the tribunal, near the main entrance, is an extraordinary 24-hour clock and the original porch.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Basilica di San Marco is definitely the main event of Venice, so a complete tour is highly recommended to soak up all of the fun stories tied to the beautiful Basilica di San Marco.

Description:

Even before arriving in front of the Byzantine styled Basilica di San Marco, her many magnificent domes can be seen from afar announcing their presence and status in Venice. The story goes, that the remains of St. Mark were brought, or stolen – depending on your point of view, by the Venetians from Alexandria to rest in this elaborate burial place back in the 9th century. On closer observation, you will notice not all of the columns on the Basilica di San Marco are the same (some green marble, others not) due to trading with incoming merchants for the materials to build and decorate this amazing edifice. History throughout the centuries is woven into the world-wide known Basilica di San Marco, including the originally looted Bronze horses being stolen by Napoleon, and then returned again in 1815.

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

This church dates back to the year 1000 and includes elements from 400 years earlier. The beautiful ambo on the left comprises of certain parts of the original sixth-century church. The luminosity of the mosaics that adorn the apse and, above all, the image of 'The Last Judgement' on the west wall (which is rumoured to be a reconstruction) are incredible.

Description:

This is the oldest cathedral of the lagoon, and evidence of the first settlement here. It was built in 639, but has undergone restoration and modification in the 9th, 11th and 14th centuries. The interior is enriched by splendid decorations, with particularly striking mosaics, which were probably made by mosaic makers from Ravenna. The bell tower, which was built in the 11th century, can only be visited by appointment. The view that can be enjoyed from the top is well worth the climb.

Our Local Expert Says:

Between four and six in the evening, in the square just on the other side of all the lace shops in the center of town, get ready for the animated local Venetian kids to come out and play, kicking the ball around and playing ‘till dinner.

Description:

The 40 minute boat ride to reach the fairytale island of Burano is all worth it when walking through the brightly colored blue, purple, green and pink houses and calm canals lined with rowboats. Burano is most known for the exquisite hand-made lace which adorns many of the shops at the heart of the island, and at times one can watch the masters at work inside the small stores. How those little old Venetian ladies produce such intricate masterpieces, one will never know! The restaurants and bakeries of Burano make the visit to this island complete, when stopping off for a quick snack ask for the Bussolai (pronounced: boos-ohl-eye) fresh out of the oven which also come with a dipping wine specifically used for these tasty cookies specific to the island. (Although the friendly Burano waiters will probably recommend this unique item before you even ask.)

Our Local Expert Says:

Well known glass blower, Cenedese, constructed a life sized Christmas tree made entirely of glass for the island of Murano. Each branch of the tree is done in different colors, as opposed to solid green, to represent the colored houses of Murano. The tree is on display most of the year in Murano, and during Christmas time near Piazza San Marco in Venice.

Description:

The skilled Glass Blowers are the founders of this fair sized island called Murano. In 1291, the furnaces were moved off of the main island to Murano in case they ever caught fire, making sure the main city of Venice would still be preserved. To this day, Murano is still known for the beautiful glass works of art, with many stores allowing tours and on-looking crowds to watch the intense production of these delicate pieces. Many quaint restaurants and shops line the quiet streets of Murano, located just a short 15 minute boat ride from Venice.

Our Local Expert Says:

Basilica di San Donato is a typical Byzantine structure so wonderfully quaint and out of the way, it’s a great place for your camera to have a heyday! Plus the incredible mosaic floor of the Basilica di San Donato is not to be missed.

Description:

Off the beaten path of most tourist-packed sites, located in a quiet corner of Murano, the Basilica di San Donato is a charming 12th century church. Rich in columns and arches, the intricate brick work and Byzantine mosaics on the walls and floors make the trip to the Basilica di San Donato a soothing experience for all the senses. Plus, its rumored that the relics of San Donato and the dragon slain by him are laid to rest in this tribute to San Donato from Arezzo.

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

For years this lovely restaurant has been deservingly popular with American food writers, putting it on the short list of every food-loving American tourist. There are nights when it seems you hear nothing but English spoken here. But this has never compromised the dining at this warm and welcoming spot, where the preparation of superfresh fish and an excellent selection of moderately priced wines is as commendable today -- perhaps more so -- as it was in its days of pre-trendiness. Much of the tourist-friendly atmosphere can be credited to the naturally hospitable Diane Rankin, the co-owner and dessert whiz who hails from Texas. She will eagerly talk you through a wondrous fish-studded menu. Her husband, Cesare Benelli, is known for his infallible talent in the kitchen. Together, they share an admirable dedication to their charming gem of a restaurant -- the quality of an evening at Al Covo is tough to top in this town.

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

The bare, simple decor doesn't hint at the trendiness of this out-of-the-way trattoria, nor at the high quality of its strictly seafood cuisine. The emphasis is on freshness here; they put the shrimp live on the grill. Seafood fans will want to make reservations here on their very first night to hang with the foodies, artists, and writers who patronize this hidden gem. There's seafood-studded spaghetti, risotti with scampi, and a great frittura mista all'Adriatico (mixed Adriatic seafood fry). In nice weather, you can dine under a canopy of grapevines in the courtyard.

Description:

This fine dinning establishment used to be a plain trattoria in the city centre, but the establishment was completely renovated. It has now become one of the best known and most popular dining choices in Venice. The black squid risotto is mouthwatering, as is the bass in balsamic vinegar and tunny fish with rosemary. Try something from the high quality wine list. A sumptuous dessert is the perfect end to a meal here. The service is impeccable.

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

This is so close to the Frari church that it almost seems like the same building. Almost nothing remains of the original 15th century construction, which was sanctioned by the Francescani dei Frari. Giovanni Scalfarotto rebuilt it in the middle of the 18th century. The church houses art by Pordenone, Ricci and Tintoretto.

Description:

Known simply as "i Frari," this immense 13th- to 14th-century Gothic church is easily found around the corner from the Scuola Grande di San Rocco -- make sure you visit both when you're in this area. Built by the Franciscans (frari is a dialectal distortion of "frati," or brothers), it is the largest church in Venice after the Basilica of San Marco. The Frari has long been considered something of a memorial to the ancient glories of Venice. Since St. Francis and the order he founded emphasized prayer and poverty, it is not surprising that the church is austere both inside and out. Yet it houses a number of important works, including two Titian masterpieces. The more striking is his Assumption of the Virgin over the main altar, painted when the artist was only in his late 20s. His Virgin of the Pesaro Family is in the left nave; for this work commissioned by one of Venice's most powerful families, Titian's wife posed for the figure of Mary (and then died soon afterward in childbirth).

The church's other masterwork is Giovanni Bellini's important triptych on wood, the Madonna and Child, displayed in the sacristy; it is one of his finest portraits of the Madonna. There is also an almost primitive-looking woodcarving by Donatello of St. John the Baptist. The grandiose tombs of two famous Venetians are also here: Canova (d. 1822), the Italian sculptor who led the revival of classicism, and Titian, who died in 1576 during a deadly plague.

Free tours in English are sometimes offered by church volunteers during the high-season months; check at the church.

Description:

There is a silent and almost respectful ambience in this museum. Visitors enter by means of a staircase, originally built as a grand entrance to the Napoleonic royal palace. From here, the tour continues through neoclassical rooms, the Royal Palace, the Canoviana Collection, Venetian Civilization, Antique Art, and Renaissance Bronze. There are many sculptures by Canova and decorative objects by Francesco Hayez. Venezia by Jacopo De' Barbari can be admired in the entrance.

Our Local Expert Says:

A favorite among many, the Santa Maria della Salute is truly stunning and elegant with its octagonal design and prominent location at the tip of the island as it looms over the water.

Description:

Having been constructed at the end of the Plague in1630, la Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute, the Church of St. Mary of Health, was built as a sign of thanksgiving for lifting the plague off the city of Venice. A beautiful octagonal shaped interior adorned with paintings such as Tintoretto's "Le Nozze di Cana" and particularly ornate marble-work coincides harmoniously with the elegant rising exterior of this handsome baroque church designed by Baldassare Longhena. The Santa Maria della Salute participates annually in the traditional Festa del Redentore (usually held the third Saturday in July), as a bridge of boats is temporarily constructed across the canal from the Santa Maria della Salute to the Chiesa del Redentore. Located at the opening of the Grande Canal, and just across the canal from Piazza San Marco, the Santa Maria della Salute seems to stand on her own but not far down the alleyways are the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and the Galleria dell'Accademia.

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

At the St. Antonino Bridge (Fondamenta dei Furlani) is the second-most important guild house to visit in Venice. The Schiavoni were an important and wealthy trading colony of Dalmatian merchants who built their own scuola, or confraternity (the coast of Dalmatia -- the former Yugoslavia -- was once ruled by the Greeks and therefore the scuola's alternative name of San Giorgio dei Greci).

Between 1502 and 1509, Vittore Carpaccio (himself of Dalmatian descent) painted a pictorial cycle of nine masterpieces illustrating episodes from the lives of St. George (patron saint of the scuola) and St. Jerome, the Dalmatian patron saints. These appealing pictures freeze in time moments in the lives of the saints: St. George charges his ferocious dragon on a field littered with half-eaten bodies and skulls (a horror story with a happy ending); St. Jerome leads his lion into a monastery, frightening the friars; St. Augustine has just taken up his pen to reply to a letter from St. Jerome when he and his little dog are transfixed by a miraculous light, and a voice telling them of St. Jerome's death.

Description:

One hundred years ago this was a Tuscan wine outlet and social center of the neighborhood, so the Busatto family couldn't very well change the name even if their cuisine is strictly traditional Venetian and fish based. Albino heads up the dining room, wife Mariuccia makes desserts, and son Stefano mans the kitchen. They care about quality here, draping choice San Daniele prosciutto over slices of ripe melon or figs, stuffing ravioli with seafood and coating it with a light parsley sauce, or tossing zucchini flowers with the scampi and homemade tagliolini. The frittura della serenissima mixes a fry of seafood, sole, zucchini, artichokes, shrimp, baby squid, and octopus.

Description:

This massive Gothic church was built by the Dominican order from the 13th to the 15th century and, together with the Frari Church in San Polo, is second in size only to the Basilica di San Marco. An unofficial Pantheon where 25 doges are buried (a number of tombs are part of the unfinished facade), the church, commonly known as Zanipolo in Venetian dialect, is also home to a number of artistic treasures.

Visit the Cappella del Rosario through a glass door off the left transept to see the three recently restored ceiling canvases by Paolo Veronese, particularly The Assumption of the Madonna. Also recently restored is the brilliantly colored Polyptych of St. Vincent Ferrer (ca. 1465) attributed to a young Giovanni Bellini, in the right aisle. You'll also see the foot of St. Catherine of Siena encased in glass.

Anchoring the large and impressive campo, a popular crossroads for this area of Castello, is the statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni, the Renaissance condottiere who defended Venice's interests at the height of its power and until his death in 1475. The 15th-century work is by the Florentine Andrea Verrocchio; it is considered one of the world's great equestrian monuments and Verrocchio's best.

Description:

The limited seating for just 24 savvy (and lucky) patrons at butcher-paper-covered tables, the relaxed young staff, and the upbeat tavernlike atmosphere belie the seriousness of this informal osteria. Having already persisted beyond the usual 15 minutes of culinary fame, this is your guaranteed choice if you are a foodie curious to experience the increasingly interesting Venetian culinary scene without going broke. Start with the carefully chosen wine list; any of the 90 labels can be ordered by the half-bottle. The delicious homemade gnocchetti ai calamaretti (with baby squid) makes a frequent appearance, as does the traditional "secondo" specialty scampi alla busara, in a "secret" recipe some of whose identifiable ingredients include tomato, cinnamon, and a dash of hot pepper. Cheese is a rarity in these parts, except for Alle Testiere's exceptional cheese platter.

Description:

This pensione is beloved by Venice regulars. You'll have to reserve far in advance to get any room here, let alone one overlooking the breakfast garden, which is snuggled into the confluence of two canals. The 17th-century villa is fitted with period antiques in first-floor "superior" rooms, and the atmosphere is decidedly old-fashioned and elegant (Katharine Hepburn's character lived here in the 1955 classic Summertime). Formally and appropriately called the Villa Maravege (Villa of Wonders), it was built as a patrician villa in the 1600s and used as the Russian consulate until the 1930s. Its outdoor landscaping (a flowering patio on the small Rio San Trovaso and a grassy formal rose garden behind) and interior details (original pavement, wood-beam and decoratively painted ceilings) still create the impression that you're a privileged guest in an aristocratic Venetian home from another era.

Description:

This snack bar has more than two hundred years of history. It serves excellent wine, accompanied by sandwiches and traditional Venetian appetizers. There is no formal seating, but you will find typical Venetian barrels and wooden benches to perch yourself on. Whatever your taste is, rich red or dry white, you will find it here.

Description:

Visit Enoteca Mascareta after a hectic day at work and refresh yourself with some Sassicia and Montervetrano. The bar offers hundreds of different kinds of wine by the glass as well as an array of Italian cheeses to go with it. The friendly bartenders guide you through the extensive wine list and help you find the one that best suits your mood and personality. There is also an eclectic range of delicious soups on offer. So leave all your worries outside and enter Enoteca for some good wine and a relaxed evening with friends.

Description:

This wine shop and bacaro is a model for such establishments: good wine, good food, always packed, and possessing the brisk drink-and-get-out esthetic that all true bacari do. Nonetheless, the crowd often spills out on to the bridge over the Rio San Trovaso where they can take their time.

Description:

A good gelateria perfectly positioned on the Zattere at the end of the Rio San Trovaso.

Description:

Americans from the East Coast might recognize this restaurant from an old Italian or Greek neighborhood back home: white tablecloths, natty waiters, photos on the walls and classical columns dividing up the room. The fish, however, is classic Venetian. Be sure to check what's in season and what's frozen.