Kardos

Description:

• This folkloric restaurant specializes in the strong flavors and potent traditions that developed in different parts of what used to be the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Similarly, the setting celebrates the idiosyncratic folklore of various regions of the Balkans and the Great Hungarian Plain. Newcomers are welcomed with piquant little rolls known as grammel, seasoned with minced pork and spices, and a choice of grilled meats. Other specialties include Hungarian Fogosch (a form of pikeperch) that's baked with vegetables and parsley potatoes, Hungarian goulash, and braised cabbage. The cellar atmosphere is Gypsy schmaltz -- pine-wood accents and brightly colored Hungarian accessories. During the winter, you're likely to find a strolling violinist. To begin, try a glass of Barack, an aperitif made from fermented apricots.

• © Frommer's 2012