|
|
|
|
|
|
My Trip
|
|
|
|
|
Add points of interest to your trip by clicking on the  button while searching through our recommendations
|
|
|
0 items in your trip
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Vienna 2008
A refreshing gulp of Gruner Veltliner
|
|
| |
|
Normally when I travel I stay in the same place for at least a week. But a mandatory layover between Kharkiv and the US and wildly fluctuating ticket prices conspired to give me three nights in Vienna. Let's see what we can do with that!
 Day Note
Arrive Vienna at 16:10.
Pop into Stephansdom, two short blocks from the Wandl, have a mug of Gruner Veltliner at Zwoelf-Apostelkeller, then hike across town to an excellent modern Viennese dinner at Schnattl. On the way back, Michael Tilson Thomas was conducting "Rite of Spring" on a huge screen in front of the Rathaus.
The "Steffl" is arguably one of the world's most enchanting Gothic cathedrals. A 12th-century construction at heart, it was renovated in Gothic style between 1304-1433. Its Northern Tower, standing at a height of 70m, was redesigned according to Renaissance aesthetics in 1579 and the interior was given a baroque slant following the Counter Reformation. St. Stephen's Cathedral's famed bell, the "Pummerin," weighing no less than 21 tons, suffered considerable fire damage in World War II. It has since been repaired and is now used to mark special occasions, such as to ring in the new year.
Schnattl
Cuisine: French, Austrian, German & Swiss
The Schnattl in Lange Gasse is a restaurant with a particularly imaginative cuisine. Wilhelm Schnattls interpretation of standard Viennese dishes is fresh and innovative, with excellent ingredients impeccably cooked and a touch of French cuisine. Also, the wine list here is excellent. Wilhelm Schnattl, himself, has transformed a large house on Lange Gasse into this very fashionable restaurant. And, there are few more pleasant spots in the hot summer months to wile away some hours with friends than in Schnattls' sheltered courtyard.
This hotel has been run by the same family for generations and has a very cozy, old-fashioned atmosphere. It is situated close to the Peterskirche and the Graben. Some of the rooms even have views of St. Stephan's Cathedral. All of the rooms are very spacious, with wooden floors and sometimes even stuccoed ceilings, adding a rather classic touch. The underground as well as the airport are within easy reach of this hotel and it makes a perfect base from which to sightsee.
Stephansdom
Day Note
The schedule only tells part of the story. I was at the Theater an der Wien when they opened, in time to grab the very last ticket for tonight's performance of "Luisa Fernandez" with Placido Domingo as Vidal. While in the neighborhood, I checked out the representation of Schikaneder as Papageno on the side of the theater, visited the Secession (not open yet), the Secessionist apartment buildings at Linke Wienzeile 38 and 40 (the Majolikahaus) and the Naschmarkt. Then off to the KHM to see Breughel and Arcimboldo and many more.
Afterwards, Witwe Bolte provided a shady spot to recover from all those pictures with Trumer Pils (just like Berkeley!) and knodel. Refueled, I returned to the now-open Secession to see the memorable Beethoven Frieze and -- anyway, I saw the Frieze. The astonishing state library and its globe and Esperanto museums and the phony mosaic Last Supper in the Minoritenkirche rounded out the afternoon.
Despite the line, Figlmuller provided an excellent Frisbee-sized schnitzel more than quickly enough for me to get back to the theater for the show. And the show was so good that the audience kept the cast coming back for callbacks -- one of which is the photo for this trip -- for at least forty minutes.
Situated opposite St. Stephan's Cathedral between Wollzeile and Bäckergasse, this authentic Viennese restaurant is characterized by beautiful vaulted arches and traditional decor. There isn't a menu as such. All meals and drinks are chalked onto a blackboard daily. Figlmüller is well known for its gigantic wiener schnitzels, cooked according to an age-old recipe, this is definitely the specialty of the house. Beer is not served, but the restaurant makes up for it with some fine home-brewed wine.
Built during the 1320s, the Minoritenkirche, also known as the Gothic Ludwigschor, was the first French cathedral style church in east Austria. It was used as a mausoleum in the 14th and 15th centuries. Inside is an imitation of Da Vinci's "The Last Supper." The painting was ordered to be made by Napoleon I and after changing hands many times, ended up on the north wall of Minoritenkirche.
Designed and built at the end of the 19th century by Gottfried Semper and Karl Hasenauer, the Kunsthistorisches Museum houses the Habsburg family's art collection, widely regarded to be one of the finest in Europe. The Picture Gallery is literally a Who's Who of the old masters, containing works by the likes of Rubens, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Dürer, Raphael, Tizian and Velazquez, as well as a comprehensive collection of paintings by Breugel. One visit is hardly enough to take everything in - lots of people return for a second or third time. The Ephesus Museum - a collection of arms and armour - and the collection of ancient musical instruments in the Imperial Palace also belong to the Kunsthistorisches Museum and are worthy of a visit in their own right.
Named after the banks of the Wien River, which once flowed beside it, Vienna's largest theatre still retains its past glory. Its Empire Style design, a memorial Papageno gate and scenic surroundings make it a romantic venue to catch some stunning performances. Listen to the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra bring Mozart and Beethoven back to life. Among other big names that grace the stage, are Angelika Kirchschlager, Rudolf Buchbinder, and Maurizio Pollini. With “Mozart 2006”, the theatre celebrates the 250th anniversary of the composer's birth. Music also takes on a humorous note with acts, such as “I Hate Mozart”, so there seems to be something for all classical tastes here. Check the web site for upcoming events and tickets.
This structure was built by Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach between 1723 and 1735, according to a design by his father Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach. Both names represent the highest quality in architecture and the Grand Hall of the National Library is said to be the most beautiful library room in the world. Don't miss visiting Grand Hall, with frescos by Daniel Gran and the historical Reading Room with frescos by Johann Bergl. The National Library's Museum of Globes is also open to the public. To imagine what imperial entertainment such as dances or masquerades were like, take a look into the ballrooms. Such imperial splendour should enjoyed in a calm and relaxed mood.
Constructed in 1895-6, the magnificent Secession building was conceived as a gallery for the movement of the same name, including artists such as Klimt, Schiele and Otto Wagner, which represented a break with the traditional Historicist school. The Secessionists' philosophy is encapsulated in the inscription above the entrance, reading "To the Age its Art, to Art its Freedom". The building is remarkable for its gilded cupola (earning it the nickname "the golden cabbage") and numerous floral and animal motifs. Today it houses exhibitions of contemporary art and in the basement, Klimt's impressive unfinished Beethoven Frieze.
Kunsthistorisches Museum
Day Note
This morning, finally peek into Peterskirche, which has been right in front of me every time I exit the Wandl. And speaking of Wandling, wandl the streets until it's time to head for the Belvedere.
Salm Brau, next to the Unteres Belvedere, nicely punctuates visits to the Oberes ("The Kiss") and Unteres Belvederes. Then a long swing around east central Vienna, visiting Portois and Fix (a green-tiled Secessionist commercial building), a pair of Flakturme and the much-hyped Hundertwasserhaus. And since I wound up at the Schwedenplatz U-Bahn, I might as well actually see the Danube -- so out to Donauinsel before returning to home base.
Later, I took another turn around the medieval streets before settling down to a very traditional and delicious Viennese dinner of veal innards, beef consomme with liver dumplings, boiled brisket and strudel, with several different Austrian wines and schnapps at the end.
On the way back someone asked directions to Figlmuller. Happy to help!
In the late 19th century, the main course of the River Danube was straightened to allow larger vessels to dock. A parallel channel was cut in the 1970s, creating a long, thin artificial island, officially known as "Donauinsel," though often called the Copa Cagrana after Kagran, the 22nd district in which it is situated. The original course of the Danube, to the east of the Neue Donau, was then used to create the semi-circular nub of land known as Kaisermühlen, home to Vienna's UNO-City. To be honest, the Donauinsel (measuring 20km by just 200m) is pretty bleak; nevertheless, it is a paradise for cycling and rollerblading. In summer, the Viennese flock to the beaches here. At night, there are numerous bars, discos, restaurants and food stalls, centered around the Donauinsel underground-station.
The Belvedere comprises two magnificent baroque mansions facing each other across a sloping formal garden. Prince Eugène of Savoy, whose campaigns against the Turks enabled the Habsburg Empire to reclaim Hungary, purchased some land beyond the city walls in 1693, upon which he ordered a park with elaborate water features and fountains to be built. In 1714, the Prince had Lukas von Hildebrandt build the Lower Belvedere for his personal use with its beautiful Marmorsaal (marble hall), the Prunkgalerie and the marvelous Spiegelsaal (mirror hall). In 1721, Hildebrandt started with the construction of the Upper Belvedere, purposely built for the prince's lavish masked balls, receptions and firework displays. The Audienzsaal (reception room), Spiegelkabinett (mirror cabinet), Kunstgalerie (arts gallery), Konferenzsaal (conference hall) and Kaffeezimmer (coffee room) can all be visited today. The complex of the Upper Belvedere now houses one of Austria's most popular galleries (Galerie im Oberen Belvedere) with a huge collection of paintings by Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka.
Love it or hate it, this brightly colored, off-centre, eco-minded transformation of a drab council block by Austrian hippy artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser in Vienna's Third District is now as much a tourist attraction as the Hofburg or Stephansdom. By declaring war on the straight line and pledging to repay a debt to nature, Hundertwasser covered the facade in a chequerboard of primary colors, added onion domes and ceramic cladding, and planted lawns and trees on the rooftops. Inside, the 50 flats were given the disconcerting feature of undulating terracotta floors. Don't miss the nearby Kunsthaus Wien, another Hundertwasser transformation, housing a permanent collection of his art.
The Viennese cooking here has a modern twist and more than a perceptible Mediterranean slant. The items on its menu are to be recommended if you would like to eat traditional Austrian cooking that is not too heavy. The surroundings are cozy Beisl atmosphere and yet elegant, although slightly lacking in space. For starters, try its appetitizers made with the famous Styrian pumpkin oil. Fabulous dishes cooked with local game make a memorable main course choice. An impressive wine list is on hand, featuring a number of good Austrian wines.
The Belvedere Palace, designed in baroque style in the early eighteenth century by Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt for Prince Eugene of Savoy, is home to the Austrian Gallery. The Upper Belvedere houses pieces of Austrian art from the 19th and 20th centuries. The remarkable collection contains paintings by Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller, Hans Makart, Oskar Kokoschka, Egon Schiele, Gustav Klimt, Richard Gerstl and many others. The Museum of Medieval Art and the Baroque Museum are situated in the Lower Belvedere. Romanesque and gothic wood sculptures and altar panels and a comprehensive collection of works by Maulbertsch, Messerschmidt and Donner can be visited in the splendid summer residence of this former military commander. After visiting the Museum, don't miss a walk through the elegant parks and also the Alpine Gardens.
Belvedere
|
|
