Vienna 2008

Arrive Vienna at 16:10. Pop into Stephansdom, two short blocks from the Wandl, have a mug of Gruner Veltliner at Zwoelf-Apostelkeller, then hike across town to an excellent modern Viennese dinner at Schnattl. On the way back, Michael Tilson Thomas was conducting "Rite of Spring" on a huge screen in front of the Rathaus.read more

Arrive Vienna at 16:10. Pop into Stephansdom, two short blocks from the Wandl, have a mug of Gruner Veltliner at Zwoelf-Apostelkeller, then hike across town to an excellent modern Viennese dinner at Schnattl. On the way back, Michael Tilson Thomas was conducting "Rite of Spring" on a huge screen in front of the Rathaus.  hide

The schedule only tells part of the story. I was at the Theater an der Wien when they opened, in time to grab the very last ticket for tonight's performance of "Luisa Fernandez" with Placido Domingo as Vidal. While in the neighborhood, I checked out the representation of Schikaneder as Papageno on the side of the theater, visited the Secession (not open yet), the Secessionist apartment buildings at Linke Wienzeile 38 and 40 (the Majolikahaus) and the Naschmarkt....read more

The schedule only tells part of the story. I was at the Theater an der Wien when they opened, in time to grab the very last ticket for tonight's performance of "Luisa Fernandez" with Placido Domingo as Vidal. While in the neighborhood, I checked out the representation of Schikaneder as Papageno on the side of the theater, visited the Secession (not open yet), the Secessionist apartment buildings at Linke Wienzeile 38 and 40 (the Majolikahaus) and the Naschmarkt. Then off to the KHM to see Breughel and Arcimboldo and many more. Afterwards, Witwe Bolte provided a shady spot to recover from all those pictures with Trumer Pils (just like Berkeley!) and knodel. Refueled, I returned to the now-open Secession to see the memorable Beethoven Frieze and -- anyway, I saw the Frieze. The astonishing state library and its globe and Esperanto museums and the phony mosaic Last Supper in the Minoritenkirche rounded out the afternoon. Despite the line, Figlmuller provided an excellent Frisbee-sized schnitzel more than quickly enough for me to get back to the theater for the show. And the show was so good that the audience kept the cast coming back for callbacks -- one of which is the photo for this trip -- for at least forty minutes.  hide

This morning, finally peek into Peterskirche, which has been right in front of me every time I exit the Wandl. And speaking of Wandling, wandl the streets until it's time to head for the Belvedere. Salm Brau, next to the Unteres Belvedere, nicely punctuates visits to the Oberes ("The Kiss") and Unteres Belvederes. Then a long swing around east central Vienna, visiting Portois and Fix (a green-tiled Secessionist commercial building), a pair of Flakturme and...read more

This morning, finally peek into Peterskirche, which has been right in front of me every time I exit the Wandl. And speaking of Wandling, wandl the streets until it's time to head for the Belvedere. Salm Brau, next to the Unteres Belvedere, nicely punctuates visits to the Oberes ("The Kiss") and Unteres Belvederes. Then a long swing around east central Vienna, visiting Portois and Fix (a green-tiled Secessionist commercial building), a pair of Flakturme and the much-hyped Hundertwasserhaus. And since I wound up at the Schwedenplatz U-Bahn, I might as well actually see the Danube -- so out to Donauinsel before returning to home base. Later, I took another turn around the medieval streets before settling down to a very traditional and delicious Viennese dinner of veal innards, beef consomme with liver dumplings, boiled brisket and strudel, with several different Austrian wines and schnapps at the end. On the way back someone asked directions to Figlmuller. Happy to help!  hide

Depart Vienna on OS 87 at 11:30.