Johnny's Half Shell

Description:

• Until September 2006, Johnny's was a neighborhood joint in Dupont Circle. Having outgrown its small space, Johnny's moved into this much larger Capitol Hill location but maintains the same warm vibes and welcoming atmosphere, with the help of many of its faithful P Street staff. This Johnny's also mimics the decor of the original, by featuring an aquarium behind the long bar, booths along one paneled wall, a tile floor, and a partly open kitchen. One thing's for sure: The regional cuisine remains unbeatable.

  The menu continues to offer its reliably good, farm-raised chicken with old-fashioned Eastern Shore slippery dumplings, garden peas, and button mushrooms; the crabmeat imperial with a salad of haricots verts (young green beans), tomatoes, and shallots; the delicious fried oyster po' boy sandwich (at lunch only); and Maryland crab cakes with coleslaw and french fries. If the sautéed soft-shell crabs with Old Bay and basil beurre blanc and corn pudding are on the menu, get them; this is one of the best places in town to enjoy them. Oysters and Wellfleet clams on the half shell are always available, of course. The short wine list includes a few selections by the glass; there are four beers on tap. Desserts are simply perfect, including homemade ice cream, a choice of apple or Meyer lemon tart, chocolate angel food cake with caramel sauce, and coconut passion-fruit layer cake.

  Johnny's also runs a Taqueria Nacional (tel. 202/737-7070), which serves breakfast tacos, scrambled eggs, and waffles 7 to 11am, and five varieties of soft tacos priced at no more than $2.50 each, plus a daily special at $5.50, 11am to 3pm. The taqueria is a takeout operation open weekdays only and is located just behind Johnny's main entrance.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2009