Bohemia Travel Guide

Of the two regions which make up the Czech Republic, the better known is Bohemia. It is the land that gave Europe its favorite catchall term for free spirit: "Bohemian." Despite being beaten into submission by successive Austrian, German, and Soviet hegemony, that spirit has lived on. In the 14th century, the capital, Prague, was the seat of the Holy Roman Empire under Charles IV. So Bohemians maintain their collective historical memory that they too, at least briefly, ruled the world. Even under the domination of the Austrians, Bohemia's industrial base was world-class, and in the peace between the big wars, independent Bohemia, especially Prague, created some of the greatest wealth on earth.

Much was lost in the destruction of World War II and the 4 decades of communism that followed. But Bohemia is slowly returning to that earlier prominence, leaving behind its reputation as a satellite in the former East Bloc and forging a familiar role as a crossroads at the heart of Europe. When talking to the people (or, even worse, the politicians), note the looks of pain on their faces with every mention of the East. "This is central Europe; we are west of Vienna!" is a common refrain. While the people may wish to put the past 40 or so years away like a pair of worn trousers, the fact is that they can't. Those years only add to the splendor of Bohemia's gentle rolling hills and majestic towns, giving the area a less-polished authenticity.