Situated at the center of the Mediterranean, the island of Sicily was once one of the great centers of civilization in the Western world. Everything here is different from the Italian mainland, even the hybrid Sicilian dialect and the many place names tinged with Arabic, in memory of the island's long-ago conquerors. The Greeks, the Romans, the Muslims, the Normans, and the Spaniards all passed through here and left their marks. Much of that ancient past remains. But Sicily is also modern -- and forever changing.