Brest Travel Guide

Introduction

In this ancient northwestern province, Bretons cling to their traditions. Deep in l'Argoat (the interior), many older folks live in stone farmhouses, as their grandparents did, and on special occasions the women wear starched-lace headdresses. The Breton language is spoken, but the Welsh and Cornish understand it better than the French. Sadly, it may die out altogether.

Nearly every village and hamlet has its own pardon, a religious festival that can attract thousands of pilgrims in traditional dress. The best known are on May 19 at Treguier (honoring St-Yves); on the second Sunday in July at Locronan (honoring St-Ronan); on July 26 at St-Anne-d'Auray (honoring the "mothers of Bretons"); and on September 8 at Le Folgoet (honoring ar foll coat -- "idiot of the forest").

Like the prow of a ship, Brittany juts into the sea. Traditionally, the province is divided into Haute-Bretagne and Basse-Bretagne. Promontories, coves, and beaches stud the rocky coastline, some 1,207km (750...