Portsmouth Travel Guide

Introduction

Portsmouth is the sort of place that tugs you back to visit again and again, a civilized little seaside city of bridges, brick, and seagulls -- and quite a lot of culture. Filled with elegant architecture that's more intimate than intimidating, this Boston-in-miniature projects a strong, proud sense of its local heritage without being overly precious about it. Part of the city's appeal is its variety: Upscale coffee shops and art galleries share main-street space with junk shops, barbers, tattoo parlors, and pierced local girls and boys. The upscale crowd has begun steadily elbowing old-time businesses out of the main square, but despite the influx of new money lately, this town retains an earthiness that serves as a great balance to more touristed and, well, saccharine coastal towns. Portsmouth's humble and historic waterfront is so understated that you actually have to seek it out; it's still a working waterfront, as you'll learn if you manage to locate it.

This city's...