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Amazon, Brazil

NileGuide Expert tip:

This is a truly spectacular chunk of unspoilt nature. But beware, it really is remote and there are next-to-no tourist-friendly resources apart from what you bring. No gift shops, no where selling spare batteries or suncream. Pack it, or swear. There are no trails and the waterways are complex and unmarked. It is easy to get lost. There are few settlements and, apart from the occasional research scientist, it is very unlikely anyone you meet will speak anything but Portuguese. It is best to visit as part of an organized trip. If you go, don't slack – dawns on the river are superb, and the sunsets are accompanied by the nighjars' complex aerial acrobatics. If you canoe, be careful not to get water in your eyes or touch your eyes with wet hands – spicules from freshwater sponges can irritate your cornea and cause an unpleasant condition known as cauixí (cow-ish-ee), which can leave you looking like an extra from a low budget horror movie.

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JauNational Park, Amazonas.


Description: At 2 million hectares, this protected area is the size of Israel (or the US state of Vermont, or some 2/3 the size of Ireland). It has less than 500 people living there and has not suffered any serious hunting or logging for several decades before its official establishment in 1980. There are no indigenous peoples living in the park, but the region's caboclos are hardy inheritors of much of the Amerindian lore on how to survive by river and forest. The area abounds with wildlife. In the right season you are almost guaranteed to see macaws (the park has three kinds, among its 22 species of parrot), pink and grey river dolphins, toucans and caimans (both spectacled and black). If you leave the tour boat and enter the enchanted world of the igapó flooded forest, you may be lucky and see giant otter or such other specialists in this habitat as the long-billed woodcreeper and the golden-backed uacaris. There are also classic lowland rainforests, a strange hummocky swampy habitat called borokótó, as well as majestic stands of buriti palm and campina white-sand shrub forests. With all these different types of vegetation, its no surprise that nearly 500 species of bird are known from Jaú, while the known mammals include 8 species of monkey and 53 types of bat. Best to plan a visit of at least two full days.


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