"Wanna-have-it-all"s in Istanbul

Our Local Expert Says:

Centered in the heart of modern Istanbul and close to everything entertainment and transportation, the Marmara is certainly a great pick if entertainment is the name of the game.

Description:

Modern nineteen-storey hotel situated high on a hill in Taksim Square with panoramic views, 500 meters from the Bosphorus. Smart, air-conditioned guestrooms with city or sea views include wireless Internet, satellite TV, and minibars. Guests can enjoy yoga and martial arts classes in the gym and relax by the outdoor pool or in the Turkish bath and sauna.

Description:

Contemporary 6-storey hotel sited in the shopping district, overlooking the Bosphorus, one kilometer from Dolmabahçe Palace. Guestrooms have bright, colorful modern furnishings and include flat-screen LCD TVs, Internet connections and minibars. Guests can sample Turkish food with a modern twist whilst enjoying panoramic views from the restaurant's open-air terrace.

Description:

Originally built in 1892 to accommodate weary travelers from the luxurious Orient Express, this elegant hotel offers wonderful views of the Golden Horn. Ataturk stayed here when he was in Istanbul and Agatha Chrisitie researched her novel Murder on the Orient Express while staying here, both these rooms are preserved as mini museums. The rooms and suites are elegant, luxurious, airy and spacious and beautifully decked out in period décor and matching furniture. The restaurant serves up copious amounts of authentic Ottoman cuisine and live jazz.

Our Local Expert Says:

As always, the Hilton delivers on it's promises. Used by many visiting celebrities and VIPS.

Description:

The Hilton was the first high-rise block built to accommodate visitors to Istanbul. Although it provides its guests with beautiful, sweeping panoramic views of the Bosphorus, it's a bit of an eyesore to look at from the outside. Considering the prices, the rooms are not exceptional. The décor however, is pleasant and the hotel provides a vast range of facilities for families and businesspeople. For sporty types, there is a kilometer-long running track winding through the lush 13 acres of gardens. Not all of the rooms have Bosphorus views and they are therefore priced accordingly. One of the hotel's claims to fame is that Ian Fleming stayed here in 1955 when he was working on From Russia With Love.

Description:

Guests can revitalize in the wellness centre with a sauna, Turkish bath, thalassotherapy, massage and beauty treatments, and the gym offers state-of-the-art equipment and aerobics lessons. There is also an indoor swimming pool accompanied by a hot tub, and the coffee shop and bar offer a wide selection of drinks. Other amenities at Sofa Hotel & Residences include conference and banquet facilities, five function rooms, a concierge, a 24-hour front desk, currency exchange and complimentary Internet connections.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most famous avenues of Istanbul and one of the most lively

Description:

This 2-mile pedestrian boulevard is a must-stroll for any visitor to Istanbul. Formerly known as the Grande Rue de Péra, the street's name was changed to İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) after Turkish independence was declared in 1923. The grand boulevard's turn-of-the-century European-style façades are well cared for, and the shops and restaurants that line the promenade are not extremely touristy or expensive. If you start at Taksim Square, İstiklal Caddesi will lead you all the way to the neighborhood home to the famous Galata Tower. Before you reach Galata, you'll pass through Karaköy, where you can see (and ride, for all of two stops) the world's second-oldest subway, the Tünel. One of İstiklal's side streets is the old Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage). Along another offshoot you'll find a slew of independent shops selling handcrafted musical instruments. İstiklal Caddesi is also your point of entry to the famous Balık Pazarı (Fish Market). Obviously, the huge boulevard is full of history and mystery, so leave no cobblestone unturned!

Description:

From Tünel at one end to the Galata Tower at the other, the entire street is full of music and musical instruments. Dozens of stores all stock guitars, pianos, traditional instruments like the Cümbüş and Oud, and Turkish cymbals. The street is full of dervishes on weekdays, and the biggest demonstrations of their whirling happen at the Galata Mevlevihanesi, located at the end of the road. This side street is a great place to immerse yourself in the musical culture of Istanbul.

Description:

Galata Mevlevihanesi is a whirling dervish hall in the Tünel Music Quarter at the end of Gallip Dede street. A whirling dervish is the fervent dancing and whirling to traditional Islamic chants and is a worship service unlike any other. The Galata Mevlevihanesi is used by several dervish groups. The octagonal hall is the best place to witness the sema, but tickets cannot be bought on the spot. To avoid disappointment make sure you get your bookings done in advance, or if not in town, get someone from your hotel to get them for you. The performances happen every Sunday and some Saturdays.

Description:

The high-point of Litera is its position and view, which encompasses not only the Bosphorus and the Princes' islands, but also the old city. Litera is one of the three restaurants owned by the ERC Group -in fact the address of ERC Office is commonly mistaken on the Internet as the address of Litera. Litera starts the day at 11:00 AM with lunch and continues to serve throughout the day as a cafe. Kitchen re-opens for dinner at 19:00, and after 23:00 the dancing and music starts. It is a friendly place that accommodates also the customers, who wish not to eat, but to have a drink or two against the view of the city and the Bosphorus. Nevertheless, NileGuide advises strongly that you perhaps taste either the fried chicken pastry ( tava börek) or the plainer vegetable börek, followed by spring chicken with thyme -cooked the villager style-, ending with panna cotta or almond nut chocolate cake. Be sure to reserve a table if you plan on having a dinner.

Description:

"Variety is the spice of life"-this might as well be the motto of the Beyoglu branch of the House Café restaurant. And if contemporary cuisine is on your mind, this is by far the best bet. You can grab pizzas, salads, burgers and cocktails here. The decor at this joint-courtesy the Autobahn design agency-includes an ensemble of furniture from different countries.

Description:

Located on five floors in the heart of Old Pera, the Pera Museum houses a small but solid collection of Kütahya ceramics, Ottoman weights and measures, and Ottoman portraiture from the 18th to the 20th centuries rarely seen outside of Turkey. The portraits alone are worth the price of admission, and a quick lap around the museum can be accomplished in an hour, if you really try hard.

Description:

The Anglican church which was used by Sri Lankan Anglikan community, is located on Serdarı Ekrem Street, extending to the Galip Dede Street in Beyoglu, Istanbul. Lord Stratford Canning laid the foundation in 1856. It was built in memory of English soldiers who attended to Crimean war on the site of the Greek cemetery. Christmas celebrations are a rare kind attended by a cheerful priest and a choir.

Description:

The Saint Antoine Church is located on Istiklal Street in Beyoglu, Istanbul. The construction began on August 23rd, 1906 and it was completed and opened to service in 1912. Its architect is Giulio Mongeri, who was born in Istanbul. The church which was governed by Italian priests is the greatest Catholic Church in Istanbul with the biggest number of congregation. It was openned to service on February 15th, 1912.

Description:

Things don't really get started here until dinnertime, but the menu works great for a light lunch of clever salads and sandwiches. The short string of tables on Sofyali Sokak offer some of the best people-watching in the area, while on cooler evenings, most diners opt for the intimate, mezzanine-level dining room. Dinner options are more substantial: choose from teasers like grilled rock grouper, bresaola with avocado, risottos, or the Flamm steak (the most expensive menu item) with rosemary, oyster mushrooms, and spinach in a cream sauce.

Our Local Expert Says:

The views here are just as good as the food! A pricey restaurant to be sure, 360 Istanbul offers superb dining with great wait staff, and a view that is paralleled by few. A romantic way to spend the evening.

Description:

As the name implies, this restaurant offers a stunning 360 degree view of the city. Although quiet at lunch, it transforms into a sophisticated and trendy nightspot. The fare is more or less international, with a range of exotic dishes. Try dishes like Prawns in a Jar with Lemon Grass, or the Bollywood Chicken. Stick to Turkish cuisine or go in for some sushi, but definitely order something from the imported wine list. The DJ and the live music keep you on your feet-the atmosphere gets more vibrant as the night progresses.

Description:

The name says it all: köfte is on the menu and köfte is what they do best here. The thumb-sized meatballs grilled over an open coal fire are one of the staple fast foods in Istanbul. Ordering one and a half to two portions of the house special will get you a good feed of tasty meatballs in between slices of toasted, buttered bread and a little side salad garnish. The beverage of choice is ayran, a salted yogurt drink. Eating here definitely won't break the budget.

Description:

The best seats are around the brass and copper Ocak, an open glowing coal grill where chunks of tender marinated lamb are grilled on skewers. Served on huge metal skewers, the idea is to wrap the thin freshly baked Lavash bread around the meat with your fingers, grip firmly and withdraw the skewer, leaving you with the Türkish equivalent of a lamb sandwich. There's not a lot of elbow room as all three floors are crammed full most nights. The atmosphere here gets pretty boisterous, and alcohol is served. It's also one of the best places in town to watch a frantic live football match on satellite TV.

Description:

Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Istanbul, its bright walls give the three rooms a contemporary atmosphere. By far the most pleasant room is the one at the back; you'll find pink tones, a skylight and a glittering old world chandelier. The English menu lists a vast selection of Turkish and Ottoman delights. It's an excellent place for lunch. A colorful display of preserved pickles and fruits brightens up the entrance. Try the Kunefe for dessert; it's to die for.

Description:

Hippodrome was built by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus in 203 A.D. The hippodrome was a stadium which served as a meeting place for the politicians, for chariot races, wrestling, boxing, and other athletic activities that took place. The arena was over 400 meters long and 120 meters wide, In the fourth century the spectator capacity was increased to 100,000. Hippodrome square is home to the Egyptian Obelisk, the Constantine Column, the Serpentine Column, and the German Fountian.

Description:

The Egyptian Obelisk the oldest monument in the city and has always been considered magical. The obelisk rests on four bronze blocks on a Roman base decorated with reliefs. These depict the emperor, his children and other prominent personalities watching the races from the imperial box, as well as the spectators, musicians, dancers and chariot races. The obelisk measures 25.60 m including the base.

Our Local Expert Says:

The piece de resistance of Istanbul - a breathtaking building both on the outside and inside. Steeped in history, this building is the building to see in Istanbul.

Description:

The magnificent Hagia Sophia was originally built by Justinian and used as a church for 916 years. It then became a mosque for 481 years and Ataturk declared it a museum in 1935. Considered the first and last unique application in terms of its architecture, magnificence and functionality, it has been the inspiration for Ottoman mosques for countless centuries. The incredible frescoes and mosaics in the upper gallery, despite being damaged, are among the most visited sites in the city. The Hagia Sophia is the number one must-see.

Description:

Yerebatan Sarayi translates into English as the 'Sinking Palace'. It's Istanbul's largest underground cistern and the only one renovated and opened for public viewing. Today Yerebatan Sarayi is a major tourist attraction and offers cool respite from Istanbul's searing summer heat. Pulsing lights, water dripping from the ceiling and eerie music played over strategically placed speakers add an air of mystery to the place. Note the two large Medusa heads supporting columns on the north side of the cistern. Wooden walkways allow visitors to view the whole cistern.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most beautiful buildings in the world. An absolute must while in Istanbul.

Description:

Dubbed the "Blue Mosque" by Europeans because of its beautiful interior tiles with flower and tree motifs manufactured at the end of the high period of the great Iznik workshops, this is the only mosque in the world with six minarets. Built by Ahmet I between 1609 and 1616, the architect was Sedefkar Mehmet Aga, one of Mimar Sinan's most prominent students. The dome is 23.5 meters wide and 43 meters high. The shrine near the mosque houses the tombs of Ahmet I and his wife Kosem Sultan. On the east side of the mosque is the Arasta, a bazaar filled with souvenir shops. The Hunkar Mansion at the north side is today's Carpet and Kilim Museum.

Our Local Expert Says:

Typical eatery / diner in the Sultanahmet with tradition and history

Description:

Sultanahmet is painfully short of high-quality eateries, but Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi has a constant stream of locals and tourists queuing out the door and down the street. It's strictly a fast food-style köfte restaurant. The tasty walnut sized meatballs are grilled to perfection over a great open-flame ocak (grill). Waiters literally run from table to table serving huge helpings of köfte accompanied by crusty bread, crispy green salad, fluffy rice and excellent white-bean salad ( piyaz). The restaurant has been around 80 years, hence its name which means, "Historical Sultan Ahmet Köfte Restaurant."

Description:

Although mistakenly immortalized as a dark 60s hippie drug den in '24:00 Express', it's now hard to comprehend that the Pudding Shop fed an entire generation of long-haired flower power babies traveling the overland hippie trail to India over 30 years ago. Idris Çölpan opened the shop in 1954 as a bakery and pudding shop and soon found himself dispensing food, loving care and the occasional bed to out-of-luck hippies. He was also the first man in Turkey to import Nescafé. These days, you push your tray along a stainless steel counter choosing cheap, unexceptional Turkish fare. It's only really memorable as an historical footnote.

Description:

The new Capa (Turkish businessman well known for his experience in opening and running restaurants and bars) restaurant that has recently opened inside of the Sofa Hotel. Interesting ambiance, rich colors, rich food and very exhaustive cocktail menu… Frequented often by the Turkish social-elites for dinner and after dinner fun

Description:

When in Istanbul, head to Hunkar for some of the best traditional Turkish food. Located in the upscale shopping district of Nisantasi, this establishment is pretty much high-end, in keeping with its surroundings. The trendy decor and mouth watering cuisine make it worth a visit. Try the Crunchy Lamb (on a bed of mashed eggplant) or the specialty, Hünkar Beğendi. Make sure you sample their palatable homemade jams and desserts too.

Description:

Mia Mensa wins the hearts of its customers by its key-point location inside a pretty garden on the Bosphore shore. Open throughout the year, yet extremely in-demand only during the summer months, Mia Mensa is frequented by adults and young adolescent friend groups alike. In fact, during the peak summer season, the latter and the younger group dominates tables for hours to catch a glimpse of who-else-might-be-there and for fine gossip. The menu at Mia Mensa is characterized by à la carte southern Italian fare; and is accompanied by few tasteful Mexican and Chinese sample dishes. Examples from this diverse menu include baked mushrooms with cheese and chicken, penne with broccoli and zucchini, linguine with garlic and oil and chicken curry with rice. There is a good variety of excellent Italian wines (as well as Grappa and Sambuca) as well. Whilst the dinner menu is available only at certain hours of the day; there is a café section serving quick salads and pizzas all day. An elegant place, yet trendy among young adolescents... A word of thumb: The service can be irritatingly bad and rude at times of peak hours.

Description:

"Ask" means love in Turkish, so the Assk Kahve is the "Love Cafe" in translation. It has a very simple menu with various sandwiches, toasts and paninis, salads and pasta. Yet, its unique location on the sea makes Assk Kahve one of the places to be in the summer. As such, it tends to get quite crowded with both young adolescents and adults. It is highly recommended that you find yourself a seat on the deck, but for that you will need to arrive a bit earlier than 11:00 AM. Breakfast is very enjoyable and you are supposed to order everything to the middle. Do order the "giant pogaca" (pastry / croissant) and honey & cream. At other times, enjoy their home-made lemonade and the "tongue of love" sandwich.

Description:

Spend the afternoon exploring Istanbul's Ottoman past at the enchanting Topkapi Palace, superb Suleymaniye Mosque and bustling Grand Bazaar on this private half-day tour.

Your four-hour personalized afternoon tour begins at spectacular Topkapi Palace, for centuries the main residence of the Ottoman sultans. The palace features delightful Ottoman architecture, exquisite tile work, the mysteries of the harem, the treasury jewels, outdoor pools and gardens, and spectacular views of the Bosphorus.

Your tour continues with a visit to the Suleymaniye Mosque, the largest mosque in Istanbul, built in the 1550s. With its four minarets and cluster of domes, the beautiful mosque dominates the skyline and is a city symbol.

After a short visit to the ancient Roman Hippodrome, you'll take an escorted tour of the Grand Bazaar, where you can spend time wandering through 3,000 shops!

Please note: The Grand Bazaar is not open on Sundays.

Our Local Expert Says:

Without doubt one of the most historical sights in Istanbul and Turkey at large. Consisting of hundreds of rooms, including the scandalous harem, Topkapi doesn't dissapoint. Plan atleast 4 hours for this - yes, it's THAT big.

Description:

Topkapi Palace, on the Seraglio Peninsula, became a museum in 1924. The Harem, Baghdat Pavilion, Revan Pavilion, Sofa Pavilion, and the Audience Chamber distinguish themselves with their architectural assets, while other artifacts reflect palace life. Gülhane Park is located on the slopes below Topkapi Palace extending to the seashore, and is popular among Istanbul residents for picnicking and open-air concerts. In the park is the Gothic Column, known to have been one of the main obelisks of the Byzantines, and an as yet unclassified, and therefore unofficial, Byzantine ruin.

Description:

Mimar Sinan is a name synonymous with Turkish architecture, and some would argue he reached his peak upon completion of the Süleymaniye Mosque, considered by many to be the most beautiful mosque in Istanbul. It's also one of the most structurally sound, not having incurred any recognizable damage from earthquakes in 450 years of sitting proudly in the heart of seismically-prone Istanbul. The mosque's most unique characteristics are its bright red and white striped archways, which, rather than lending a candy-cane feel to the place, actually add an aire of elegance to the mosque's interior with their subtlety and symmetry.

Our Local Expert Says:

One could spend a day here, and only see a quarter of what it has to offer. From leather goods to books, and clothes to dishware, the covered bazaar doesn't disappoint. Be sure to try the restaurant up top - this writer hears good things!

Description:

The Kapalıçarsı is Turkey's largest covered market, housing approximately 4000 shops of luxurious Turkish carpets, delicate pottery, shiny brass-ware, handmade nargiles, precious stones, leather goods, lamps and a lot more than one could count or remember. A place as big as this has multiple entrances, though most people enter through the Nuruosmaniye Gate. As is "custom," never settle on the price a dealer quotes. He expects you to haggle with him and you should. Do it amiably and be reasonable (don't ask for more than 50% off), and you're sure to walk away with the article of your choice at a price you can live with. All payments are in cash, and those that take credit cards accept only the major ones. The bazaar also houses restaurants, which are frequented by tourists and locals alike.

Description:

The Kariye Museum (Church of the Holy Savior in Chora) has the most amazing Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul. Set aside a few hours to see them. The Kariye Museum served as a mosque for centuries after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best Ottoman Palace cuisine

Description:

Housed in a 19th-century Ottoman mansion (now converted into the Kariye Hotel), the Asithane Restaurant is big diversion from the mainstream Turkish and Ottoman Cuisine Restaurants in Istanbul -a.k.a kebab houses or doner / tacos buffets as the stereotypical Turkish food. Asitane Restaurant is a highly recommended restaurant to get a feel of the real historical taste of the Turkish culture. The menu changes seasonally - although some typical dishes don't, such as almond soup, stuffed calamari, seasonal salad with beetroot and hibiscus, hassa böreği (aged skin bag cheese from goat's milk, yogurt, green olives, walnuts and tarragon wrapped inside wafer), muntancana (stewed lamb served with pearl onion) and mahmudiyye (chicken flavored with honey served with almond, apricot, cinnamon, dried grape and flavored rice). Asitane Restaurant has a gorgeous summer terrace and an aromatic rose garden overlooking the Chora Church (Kariye Church). Enjoy your şerbet and / or wine, whilst sampling the small dishes (hot and cold appetizers). Go for sharing everything - as there is so much that is so good. The staff is overly well-behaved, kind and they speak very good English. Share your appetite with... read more

Our Local Expert Says:

Summer-time day trip

Description:

In Turkish, "adalar" simply means "islands" - though adalar are very familiar territory for Istanbulites, which island you are referring to is still quite important since many Istanbullites use the islands as their summer residence and have a genuine circle of relatives and friends there. Probably the most popular day trip option from Istanbul, at least in the summer, the Princes' Islands are comprised of seven small islands, four of which (Büyükada, Kınalıada, Burgazada and Heybeliada) have constant summertime service by ferry from Kabataş and Bostanci. The islands offer treasures of history (Byzantine churches and Greek and Turkish ruins), green parks, and various upscale restaurants and hotels. As no cars are allowed onto the islands, you would be better off renting a horse-backed carriage to go from one part to another; or to arrive on the islands dressed casually and renting a bike. The islands are a wonderful retreat from bustling Istanbul, each with its own unique character and pace of life.

Description:

Adem Baba is a little, cosy fish restaurant in Arnavutköy. If the metaphor suits itself right, it is infact the Le Relais de l'Entrecôte of Istanbul -taking no reservations in advance and making people wait in line to eat its fresh and daily products. Its fish soup, which is only available on Sundays is one of its fineprints.

Description:

Essentially a rocking boat making fish & bread to the passers by, Takanik has expanded its business and opened two restaurants: one in the Yenikoy region of the Bosphorus, and the other in Arnavutkoy. Nevertheless, Takanik did also manage to keep its "rocking boat" - "fisherman" spirit, and has thus kept the restaurants pretty basic and simple -much like a diner. The high point of Takanik, like much of the other fish diners in Istanbul is the freshness of the food, delightful tastes and low prices. Bringing fresh food and organic salads from the garden, Takanik is one of the local's choice for take-out as well.

Description:

Ali Baba has been serving simple Turkish fast food to discerning locals for many years. Köfte can be found on the menu - and not much else. These tasty little grilled meatballs are served with white bean salad (known as piyaz and fresh hot pide bread. To spice it up, you can add as much crushed hot chili as you like. The place has an impeccable reputation - way out of proportion with its tiny size. Eager patrons wait in long queues or share tables with the rest of the weekend crowd. Devotees maintain these are the best köfte in town.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best location, very good food

Description:

Iskele Restaurant is very much liked by the local (well-to-do) folks for its unique location on the water front along the Rumeli Hisari coast; and the quality of its services and freshness of the seasonal fish. The best seats in the house are probably those that are outside on the wooden deck, commanding a view across the straits to the castle on the hilltop - Anadolu Hisari. In the winter, tables by the window are second best. The interior décor is unornamented, simplistic and traditional, but still very elegant. The extremely attentive staff are unobtrusive and very friendly, yet still polite and efficient. The service overall is extremely unpretentious. The variety of food is actually not very different from other mainstream fist restaurants. However, Iskele manages to differentiate itself through the quality of its food offer: fresh seasonal fish and delicious seafood meze. Marinated sea bass, Mackarel special from the cold plates; Iskele special from the hot dishes are highly recommended. Locals' choice for business meals and quality time with friends & loved ones. Definitely a place to take your foreign friend and bewilder him during his visit to Istanbul.
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Our Local Expert Says:

Most trendy neighborhood bar

Description:

Lucca is chic cafe-bistro in the heart of Bebek accommodating your mood at every hour of the day, whether you feel like partying or co-cooning. Early morning to until after lunch time, Lucca offers a menu that features predominantly a variety of options for breakfast, paninis, salads, wraps, home-made pastry and cakes. After 5 p.m. Lucca offers its clients the right atmosphere to chill and relax after a long and hard workday. The menu changes accordingly as well, offering little tasty plates -the tapas-, cheesy and big hamburgers, the drunken beef sauted with wine and a bigger selection of salad and pasta. Everyday whether it is a Monday or Friday, Lucca gets heated with people dining, or just drinking. There are frequently arts and music happenings: special DJs are called in every now and the little gallery inside the cafe renews itself every two months.

Our Local Expert Says:

An interesting fact is that it has the world's largest chandelier - the size of a small car in fact!

Description:

Imagine a home with 285 rooms, 6 baths (hamam), 68 toilets and a ceiling made of 14 tonnes of gold! The Dolmabahçe Palace built on a reclaimed land is one such marvelous structure, built by the Ottoman Sultan, Abdulmecid between 1853-1922. A guided tour to this splendid palace will be an experience, checking out the modern approach to architecture with an essentially French influence. The rich tastes and splendor of the era is evident in every corner and artifact in the decor. You just can't miss the Bohemian crystal chandelier, the Crystal Staircase or the original bearskin rugs.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best among the Asmalı Taverns

Description:

Asmalı Mescit has changed immensely and continues to change -from an artisan street occupied by butcher shops, plumber shops and the like to a bars' street. The lower end of this street has been home to a few typical Turkish taverns for a long time. Among the well known taverns are Refik, Yakup and Asmalı Cavit. Asmalı Cavit offers one of the best price for value offers, whilst keeping true to friendly service and long-lasting traditions. The custom is to start off the night with rakı, melon and cheese; and to move on slowly to cold and hot appetizers -the mezes.

Description:

Located on the top two floors of the new Marmara Pera hotel, Mikla is the newest hit of the Istanbul Yiyecek Icecek A.S. ("eat drink") ventures, which includes the very popular Lokanta (at Nu Pera in winter and at rooftop as Nu Teras in summer). The Swedish born chef, Mehmet Gürs, is somewhat of an Istanbul celebrity by now; he settled in Istanbul in the 1990s and has made all of the kitchens he's touched turn to gold. Reservations are hard to come by and the wait for a table is long; the management makes it easy with the upstairs bar views of the lights of the Old City. Raw grouper makes an outstanding appetizer, followed by the whole roast beef tenderloin for two. Try to leave space for the memorable pistachio and tahini ice cream.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best French Bistro in the city

Description:

Located right on the corner of the Asmalı Mescit Street -referred to simply as "Asmalı" by the local folk- as you enter it from the side where the Marmara Pera Hotel is, you recognize La Brise from its red tilts. Tiny, yet cozy, lined with white table tops, frequented by typical Istanbulelites, La Brise is indeed a little germ on the Asmalı. Run by the the Hunal family (who also run the bar & bistro North Shields branch), everything on the menu is a must-try. A French Bistro, decorated very much like one, serves delicate samples of French cuisine including the French Onion Soup for starters, maybe accompanied by Pate de foie de poulet (chicken pate) or Huitres -les 6- (the shelled fish) and followed by Chateaubriand (for share). A concise wine list is available and do consult the chef or the sommelier for suggestions on delicate Turkish wines -there is in fact some niche Turkish wine available here. A meal is unfinished without the enchanting Napoleon -mille feuille.

Description:

This small Italian joint is famous for its mojitos and for its late night scene. Apparently, the motto is to eat well and dance better at this joint. The DJ gives everyone a reason to groove and sway till they are thirsty or famished. Rock and electro music are played here till late night.

Description:

This two-level nightclub, formerly known as NuPera, now also called Nu Club, happens to be the Nu Terrace in summers. It is located within the NuPera complex in the Beyoglu neighborhood, enclosing three restaurants inside during the winter and the regular Nu Restaurant on the terrace in the summer. In terms of its clientele, there are no vast seasonal differences in winter and summer. On the other hand, the concept of the place tends to change a bit. During winters, the three rooms, in which the three restaurants are, rock to different types of music, making an enchanting club environment that allows you to bar-hop without putting on your jacket at all. The restaurants inside are Moreish, Nu Restaurant and Lilbitz, offering a range of fusion, world and tapas food. During the summer, the inner places close down and only the terrace area is open for both dinner and entertainment. The place does tend to be crowded, making getting in a tough work at times; but this does not deter the regulars, who jostle for elbow-space on the dance floor. An eclectic range of music is played by the DJs here, and that includes hip hop, house and pop. The clientele is elitist and the dress code is strictly... read more

Our Local Expert Says:

Between 2001 and 2007, Babylon has been nominated and won various international awards, including "One of the best 100 International Jazz Club in the World" by the famous Down Beat magazine, and "The Best Concert/Performance Venue" by Time Out Istanbul - Miller Gourmet Awards.

Description:

Babylon, designed as a multipurpose performance space, is the premier award-winning live music venue in Turkey, that is offering both some of Turkey's most popular artists and some very special international bands and musicians at fairly reasonable rates. Top international names from jazz, latin, reggae, world music, and electronica spectrum are staged on weekends; while local bands take the stage on weekdays. There are also special DJ sessions, which are held once a month. This place has a capacity of 450 standing or 300 with tables & standing. Since 2007, Babylon has opened the Babylon Lounge, which also hosts live music performances. The difference of Babylon Lounge is that it is also possible to have dinner or lunch here, or just come for drinks and enjoy finger food and snacks.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most famous avenues of Istanbul and one of the most lively

Description:

This 2-mile pedestrian boulevard is a must-stroll for any visitor to Istanbul. Formerly known as the Grande Rue de Péra, the street's name was changed to İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) after Turkish independence was declared in 1923. The grand boulevard's turn-of-the-century European-style façades are well cared for, and the shops and restaurants that line the promenade are not extremely touristy or expensive. If you start at Taksim Square, İstiklal Caddesi will lead you all the way to the neighborhood home to the famous Galata Tower. Before you reach Galata, you'll pass through Karaköy, where you can see (and ride, for all of two stops) the world's second-oldest subway, the Tünel. One of İstiklal's side streets is the old Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage). Along another offshoot you'll find a slew of independent shops selling handcrafted musical instruments. İstiklal Caddesi is also your point of entry to the famous Balık Pazarı (Fish Market). Obviously, the huge boulevard is full of history and mystery, so leave no cobblestone unturned!

Description:

While the caterpillar on a cocoon would be the idea of many a drawings, art is also extended to the cotton in the cocoon. Prominent amongst featured works at Galerist are those of multiple 'British Designer of the Year' award winner, Cypriot Hüseyin Çağlayan (MBE). That doesn't mean the canvas is completely shunned as the Dutch artist Haluk Akakce's works also make their presence felt. Leading the Turkish charge of artists is Leyla Gadiz. If you share the non-enthusiast perception of all art being another brick in the wall, the art here is sure to make you think again.

Description:

Initiated in September 2001, this center is located in one of the liveliest areas of the city. It facilitates meetings for artists, curators and critics, acting as a stable platform. There are research and lecturing facilities available here and it is also home to an extensive artist archive. The Platform Garanti Contemporary Art Centre encourages art on both a local and international level - it even offers a Residency Program, which is open to international artists, critics and curators. Visitors can enjoy various group and solo exhibitions as well as lectures, workshops and video and film events. So if you are a budding artist, a critic in search of the next big thing or just an interested visitor, head here for a complete arty experience.

Our Local Expert Says:

Shoppers' haven

Description:

Abdi İpekçi Caddesi is much referred as the "5th Avenue" of Istanbul among locals. Another competing avenue in terms of shopping and larking is the Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian continent. However, if you ask most residents of Istanbul about where to tie up your high-end shopping, the answer is more likely to be on Abdi İpekçi Street. Starting with Channel down the bottom of the street, as one makes his/her way up the "always crowded" Midpoint Cafe and Brandroom, passing aside from the entrance of the legendary Reasurans Passage (where locally managed small boutiques selling old season La Perla and high end La Scarpa are found together with some of the best restaurants of Nişantaşı, such as Zanzibar and Assk) and reaching slowly slowly to Louis Vuitton and Prada...

As if that was not all of it, the side streets running across are filled with more variety and choice; as well as affordability in terms of price. A place all shoppers should visit before they go back home.
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Description:

Named after the famous Turkish photographer, Ara Guler, who is known to have taken the photographs of Salvador Dali as well, Ara Café is a cosy, little place with quality people and food. The interior design of the place is decorated with the photographs of Guler himself. Located inside a very narrow street in Galatasaray, the café offers what any other photographer or artist would have asked for: a tranquil place to observe people without them observing you. Their hot chocolate and wet chocolate cake are a must-try.

Our Local Expert Says:

Original food and quality people

Description:

Small casual cocktail bar in an upscale contemporary Turkish restaurant. Cezayir is located on the corner of the Fransız Sokağı -the so-called French Street. The three floored restaurant/bar features high quality finger food, main courses (including everything from very good risotto to roasted duck wrapped in a milfoille) and original cocktails. The garden of Cezayir is open starting from April onwards and throughout the summer. The highly active management and team put all their energy into making Cezayir a unique, high-class, yet not snob bar&restaurant. As such it is a homely, neighborhood bar, where most of the frequenters know each other pretty well. Tourists also arrive here upon chance and leave bewildered. Every Wednesdays, there is a live group of musicians making jazz. A nice oppourtunity to get out there and mingle with the local crowd.

Our Local Expert Says:

Chic and elegant lounge area

Description:

Despite a fairly good French-influenced menu, most of the moneyed clientele come here to be seen rather than eat. The well-heeled customers enter through a narrow corridor -a.k.a VIP-, walk over colorful old carpets and bright kilims (traditional Turkish rugs) into a wide saloon with an incredible view of the Bosphorus. Ulus 29 is located right above, on the same hill as the, Sunset Grill Bar & Restaurant. The two restaurants share the same aura, clientele and the view; and have slightly influenced menus, yet differ by the fact that Ulus 29 is a bar, restaurant and club. Even though dinner may end around midnight at 29, the 29 club is usually just starting by that time. The ostentatious décor of both restaurant and the club area makes the whole place resemble a gigantic Bedouin tent. In summer, everyone prefers to dine on the open-air garden terrace with fabulous views of the Bosphorus. The menu covers a wide array of cuisines, but is fairly influenced by French, Ottoman Classics and Italian.

Our Local Expert Says:

Local's pick

Description:

Majestic view of Bosphorus hidden at Anjelique. Anjelique is the leading candidate for the best and most popular site of Istanbul in the summer; an address for fun, chill-out and full enjoyment with fascinating view and decoration. Top specialties of Anjelique are the lively feeling of the place, the majestic view of Bosphorus and the menu consisting of different flavours. Decoration is designed and renovated by Mahmut Anlar (Geomim Architecture). The simplicity of the decoration and specially angled mirrors bring wide-spectrum of Bosphorus inside Anjelique.

Our Local Expert Says:

Certainly the place to go to see and be seen. Frequented by celebrities and the who's who of Turkey, Reina doesn't disappoint, save for the 30 euro drinks.

Description:

One of the hottest clubs in Turkey, Reina is actually a vast playground filled with bars, restaurants and dance floors that can welcome up to 2500 people. Supposedly, the name 'Reina' was inspired by a 'very cute' 3-year-old girl (wCities). In the past few years, Reina has been becoming more and more "less local." Yet, high-fliers, millionaires, celebrities and media moguls continue to mix and mingle under one roof. This has to do with its vast popularity and scenery, which have made it very famous worldwide and thus very crowded. It is located at the foot of the European side with a magnificent view of the Bosphorus Bridge. It is open every season, yet moves out to its vast open space in the summers. The place gets renovated right down to its toilets almost every season and opens both its winter and summer seasons with huge parties. The restaurants inside this complex run the gamut from Italian to Sushi to more traditional local fare. Many well-known restaurants including Kosebasi Kebab, Samdan Restaurant and Dragon Chinese Restaurant move into Reina for the summer season. Nevertheless, you may not be able to find the same restaurant here season after season: Who pays the piper calls... read more

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the best for a "typical" breakfast

Description:

One of the best places to enjoy Turkish style breakfast with olives, cucumber, tomato, the Turkish tortilla, bagels, various different egg assortments and the handmade pastry. It is open air and tends to get very crowded on weekends. Still the wait is worth it and it is not as long as it may look.

Description:

One of the most enjoyable ways to travel in Istanbul! Traditional ferry boats travel convenient routes up, down, and across the Bosphorous, connecting Karakoy, Eminonu, and Besiktas on the European shore with Uskudar, Haydarpasa, and Kadikoy on the Asian side. A lovely parade of great, ancient mansions which line up both sides of the coast, a romantic escapade under crimson moonlight, no better way to seize the sea-water-canal of this city which divides it apart.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best location, very good food

Description:

Iskele Restaurant is very much liked by the local (well-to-do) folks for its unique location on the water front along the Rumeli Hisari coast; and the quality of its services and freshness of the seasonal fish. The best seats in the house are probably those that are outside on the wooden deck, commanding a view across the straits to the castle on the hilltop - Anadolu Hisari. In the winter, tables by the window are second best. The interior décor is unornamented, simplistic and traditional, but still very elegant. The extremely attentive staff are unobtrusive and very friendly, yet still polite and efficient. The service overall is extremely unpretentious. The variety of food is actually not very different from other mainstream fist restaurants. However, Iskele manages to differentiate itself through the quality of its food offer: fresh seasonal fish and delicious seafood meze. Marinated sea bass, Mackarel special from the cold plates; Iskele special from the hot dishes are highly recommended. Locals' choice for business meals and quality time with friends & loved ones. Definitely a place to take your foreign friend and bewilder him during his visit to Istanbul.
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Our Local Expert Says:

One of the landmarks of Turkey, Galata Tower is a must see on your trip. Historically important, and affording views of the whole of Istanbul, this is a site not to be missed. A decent restaurant at the top has nice, but overpriced meals.

Description:

The Galata Tower is a medieval stone tower, a cone-capped cylinder that soars high into the sky, dominating the skyline and offering a panoramic view of the Old city of Istanbul. It is thus worth climbing to the top for the view from this 14th century Genoese fortification. Beneath the tower is also a cozy, friendly neighborhood of artisans, artisan restaurants, designer boutiques, galleries and architects' offices. Take your camera and start strolling through the streets. Drop by at Lastik Pabuc Sneaker Store and have a look at unique sneakers; stop for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate at Cherrybeans Coffee Store -chocolates are their own production. The second hand store Second Chance sell unique vintage items, owned by model Ahu Yagtu. Lunch recommended at Kivahan Restaurant -no fix menu, everything is daily prepared.

Description:

This restaurant is named after the Türkish impressionist, Uluer Rami, whose works grace the walls. It's located in a renovated Ottoman house on three levels. The glorious interior is done out with antique furniture and old yellowing prints - gentle sepia tones and nostalgia are big here. If you book in advance, it's possible to have front row seats on the top floor for the spectacular sound and light show at the Blue Mosque in the summer. Traditional Türkish cuisine is on the menu.

Description:

A walk from Besiktas until Sariyer is just too long. But, if you were to do it, you would be passing by Ciragan Palace, Ortakoy, Kurucesme, Arnavutkoy, Bebek, Rumeli Fortress, Baltalimani / Boyacikoy, Emirgan, Sabanci House / Museum, Istinye, Yenikoy, Tarabya and Sariyer successively. This entire walk would last for at least 4 hours, maybe 5. However, a smaller version from Kurucesme until Rumeli Fortress is just enough to see the beautiful old houses, the fishermen, the sidewalk groceries and the Anatolian coast across. The same walk is doable on the Anatolian coast as well. There the line starts from Uskudar (across from Besiktas) and continues along Beylerbeyi, Kuleli Military School, Vanikoy (the elite residential place of mansions), Kandilli, Goksu, Anadolu Fortress, Kanlica, Pasabahce, Beykoz. Again this entire trail would be too long and tiresome. The better parts of this are from the Kuleli Military School until Kanlica. Yet, another trail along the coast on the Anatolian side is the parallel of the famous shopping street the Bagdat Street. The parallel of this street runs by the Marmara Sea and the best trail starts from Bostanci and continues along Suadiye, Caddebostan and... read more

Our Local Expert Says:

Bebek Park has one thing that most other parks in the world does not; and that is the Sea, the port and the fishermen...

Description:

Bebek Park is no Central Park... It is not big at all. But with its lush green trees, wooden benches and playgrounds for kids it is an invincible hub for locals of Bebek -especially those with kids and dogs :) On any sunny Sunday you are likely to find both celebrities and local residents, taking a breath here at the Bebek Park. Kids will be runnung up and around, dogs will be snoozing around, cats will be hiding away from them all... There are nice tea gardens (cafes) inside and around the park where you can relax and watch it all -sipping into tradional Turkish tea. Finally, Bebek Park has one thing that most other parks in the world does not; and that is the Sea, the port and the fishermen...