Summer getaways -Çeşme/İzmir

I was unable to check out Istanbul over the last weekend, because I was weekend-tripping over at Çeşme, İzmir – a lovely place to get away for the weekend during summer (also in winter).

Weekend-tripping to Izmir is quite easy and only moderately expensive if you plan in advance. There are three ways to go to Izmir: by car, by plane, by boat. When you go just for the weekend though (Sat-Sun or Fri evening to Sun) plane is the only easiest and the most practical way. There are many airlines that fly to Izmir inc. Turkish Airlines (THY), Atlas Jet, Onur Air, Pegasus, Sun Express and some other subsidiaries of THY. In the season, if you try to buy a plane ticket two to five days earlier before you plan to travel, you may end up paying as much as 200 euros per person (for two ways). When you plan in advance of the season, it is much less (around 70-80 euros). Nothing too surprising though… Same story goes everywhere with you when it comes to plane tickets.

Arriving at Izmir, you still need a vehicle to go to Çeşme -which is appr. 45 minutes away. You can rent a car (there are many local companies, as well as the internationally known ones) or take the bus. Having a car in Çeşme is wise though, since you will need one to go just about anywhere.

There are a couple of beachtowns in Çeşme that you will need to choose between to make your stay. Doesn’t mean that when you choose one, you cannot go to the others… But, as I said you will need a car. Alaçatı is the Taormina (of Sicily) of Çeşme. That only goes true for the looks of this town, otherwise Alaçatı is the windsurfers’ resort. The center of Alaçatı, which is also a bit away from the surfing area, is a lovely little village with stone-paved streets -no cars- and little boutiques; and this center is the bit that resemble Taormina.

Alaçatı is expensive… Most hotels will not accept your reservation for the weekend, unless it meets the min. requirement of two nights and most hotels will charge you at least 100 euros for the night. If you can though, stay at one of these nice boutique hotels: O Ev or Taş Otel. These are intimately decorated by their owners, and are serving very typical village breakfasts in the morning. Other hotels in the area exist too and there are many. Sesil, Oda, Yaya, Taş Evi, Alaçatı Kır Evi are among those others. Yet other ones are to the surfing and beach area: Alaçatı Beach Resort and Süzer Hotel to begin with. Even if you choose not to stay in the center of Alaçatı, do come here for breakfast or dinner. The atmosphere at the center is lovely indeed. Recommended places for breakfast and drinks are Köşe Kahve and Sailor’s Hotel.

The other beachtown is Ilıca. This is more residential compared to Alaçatı. Most residents of Izmir own a summer house here. There are also the big hotels like Sheraton, Radisson Blu and Ilıca Hotel. Eating out options are limited on this side, but most hotels have their own beach. Most residents of Ilıca do end up at Alaçatı at the end of the day for dinner and drinks.

Dalyan, Kum Beach and Küçük Çiftlikköy are towns that are a bit more further away and less popular amongst tourists. Of these towns Kum Beach has the best shore and the best quality of sand. The sea here is very very cold though. Dalyan is where most people go to eat fish rather than for the beach or the hotels. The locals love this area for fish (the Agean love the fish, to catch, to cook and to eat it), so make sure you reserve. Küçük Çiftlikköy is even farther away. I have never stayed or swam in the sea on this part of the city. However, there are very nice langusta restaurants here -if you are interested. A bit expensive though.

A generic beach area where most of the locals of Izmir go to -when they are not surfing- is Aya Yorgi. Aya Yorgi is between Ilıca and Alaçatı and only 7 minutes away from each with a car. This where all the beach clubs are. There are more than five beach clubs with Shayna and Solemare in the lead. Babylon of Istanbul also has a place here -although until last year it did on the Alaçatı beach. Babylon beachclub used to serve a pitcher of mojito on its other venue; but I am pretty sure that they do pretty much the same things on Aya Yorgi as well. There was also a “happy hour” code of comduct on Babylon beach -according to which drinks after 5 PM were at a discount.

All of the beach clubs become night clubs after midnight. Babylon continues to host live concerts on the Aya Yorgi. This year most popular nightclub seems to be Marakesh (somewhere between Solemare and Shayna). Until this year Solemare had the lead. With Babylon’s arrival, it has become a question of doubt as to what will happen to these other clubs.

On the Alaçatı part, there are also popular night clubs -most of which have arrived from Istanbul. Until last year Otto was here, but it has now given the lead to Public. As Public itself has recently opened in Istanbul this year, it will be interesting to see how it holds up in the cool and popular Çeşme.

[RHS image By OscarKosy (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons at Wikimedia Commons]

A final word or two: weekend trip to Çeşme is unfulfilled if…

-you have not eaten the legendary Kumru sandwich,

-not have had a village style breakfast with fresh vegetables and fruits,

-not been to Alaçatı surfing area -at least to watch the surfers,

-not wondered through the beautiful streets of Alaçatı

-not had a happy hour at Aya Yorgi

-not eaten fish at Dalyanköy.

Happy weekends!