Those familiar with the late 19th century novella made popular by Charlton Heston’s 1959 film will find the 21st century take a fast paced, eye-catching performance with live gladiator fighting, chariot racing and dance.  What sets this performance ahead of its predecessor is the musical score by Stewart Copeland (The Police) and its minimalist sets which are clevered configured and reconfigured to create Nazareth, Rome and Jerusalem.

For passionate linguists, dialog is surprisingly in spoken Latin and a kind of pre-Arab/Aramic, with voice overs in Italian and subtitles in English.  Unlike Heston’s film, the performance lasts under 2 hours (with a half-hour intermission) and is vibrant.  The dancing and spectacle events recreating the Roman empire seem inspired by the Cirque de Soleil, and are in fact by choreographer Liam Steel– whose  dance and gymnastics movements capture the personality of the era and story.

For more information, visit Ben Hur Live or view this clip from Il Corriere della Sera.

Arrival to Nuova Fiera di Roma is best by local train (FR1) from Termini and Ostiense stations.  Look for Ingresso Nord.

Located on the edge of Villa Borghese, the Bioparco di Roma is one of the oldest zoos in Europe, a conservation center and a great children’s respite from days of trekking through the Ancient City.   The original entrance the zoo is a beautiful example of Italian turn-of-the-century architecture, an embracing art nouveau gate that welcomes you into a 21st century biopark where nearly 1000 animals representing over 200 different species reside.  Like most zoos, the Bioparco offers animal feedings, learning sessions with both adult and baby animals, reptilian house and a large Noah’s ark inspired playground.  In general, it is a great escape for younger children who need to run around and also be stimulated– not just inspired by art and culture.  It also must be noted that the bioparco is a partial botanical garden, boasting more than 1000 different varieties of trees, some of which are very old and rare.  In the hotter months (end of June through August), the bioparco can be rather balmy and the animals are not as active, so plan early mornings or later in the afternoon visits.

Open daily from 9:30 to 5pm (April 2 through September 25 through 6pm).

Festa della Repubblica is kicked off on June 2nd with a morning parade of armed forces led by Italy’s President (currently Giorgio Napolitano) down Rome’s via dei Fori Imperiali, after which there are speeches, the anticipated fly over the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II by Italy’s Frecce Tricolori, military aviatrix, and concerts at the Palazzo del Quirinale, presidential office and residence.  For residents and visitors across the peninsula, the Festa della Repubblica is a ponte, an often time three-day weekend to get out of town.  Most head to the beach or country for their own personal barbecue celebrations.  Commercial activity– from shops to transport– in most major cities such as Rome and Milan is limited.

Though you may not find the hot dogs you so desire in Rome, you can have an evening under big bang fireworks.  The June 29 Festa di Santissimi  Pietro e Paolo (Saints Peter and Paul, patron saints of Rome) is J a Rome-only holiday when most shops close, Romans head to the beach and the city celebrates saints Peter and Paul with fireworks and music.  For those in the Eternal City on the evening of the Festa of St. Peter and Paul, the city hosts two main events of fuochi artificiali.  In the center only? Shooting over Castel Sant’Angelo– and almost directly in front of St. Peter’s Basilica– will be an unforgettable fireworks display.  For the adventuresome, head outside the historic center toward San Paolo Fuori delle Mura (the basilica of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls).  In honor of St. Paul, fireworks are shot over the basilica.  Most Romans like to get front row seats on Ponte Marconi, the modern bridge that crosses the Tiber between the Ostiense and Monteverde Nuovo neighborhoods.

Photo by OKRoma

The Trastevere neighborhood leads the way with some of Rome’s most favorite beer bars such as Bir & Fud an ample selection of handcrafted brews and creative comfort food, and old school favorite Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà,  serving a rotating selection of artisanal beers within its football-bannered walls.  Birreria Olmsted, on the “other side” of Trastevere is a landmark pub, known for its German beers especially.   Hidden in the Porta Portese area is a Brasserie 4:20, whose name alone should be just enough of an invitation.  4:20 serves only beer, water and whiskey, has 28 taps, 13 pumps, vintage beers and lovely menu.

Head to Piazza Venezia, Rome’s very center, to find Antica Birreria Peroni, the old school Italian brewery whose motto  Just as precious as milk are words to live by as  this original turn-of-the-century beer house features Peroni’s four frothy favorites: Nastro Azzurro, Crystall Red, Fuller’s London Pride and Peroni Gran Riservas.  A newer version of an old Italian favorite is Open Baladin, from Le Baladin brewing company from the Piemonte region, more commonly know for its spectacular barolo wines.  Open Baladin stocks 140 different brews.

For the adventuresome, (i.e. anyone willing get off the beaten paths), take a peak at Bed and Beer in Ponte Milvio, Rome’s most recent hipster hangout about 15 minutes north of the city center.  Touted as Rome’s smallest beer bar, Bed & Beer showcases 500 beers form over 25 countries, a World Cup of beers, so to speak.  The ever-in-the-gastronomic-know Katie Parla found the almost as tiny beer speak-easy Blind Pig, just past San Giovanni in Laterano.  My personal favorite, and not too hard to find, is Cantina Tirolese, in the Vatican’s Borgo neighborhood. A kitschy Alpine-themed fondue restaurant, Cantina Tirolese also has on tap some of Austrian’s finest beers– and a very nice beef stoganoff.

Photo by Romefile

For those who are less interested in the Spartan aspects of going native but still want an outdoor adventure, glamping– glamour camping where the wilderness meets five-star luxury service- is the latest trend to hit the Mediterranean.   A Lazio favorite in eco-luxury camping is La Piantata, a tree house in the country-side near Viterbo.

Photo by QNM and La Piantata

Rome Guide, 06live and Eventful publish an extensive calendar of summer concerts to keep you up-to-date with who’s playing and where.  Favorite series include Lungo il Tevere, where the banks of Rome’s Tiber river host restaurants, theatres and discos.  Rock in Roma at the Ippodromo whose headliners include Jamiroquai and Fabri Fibri.  For some days of yore, Rock City Roma, near Cinecittà features cover bands of Italian and non-Italian musicians and groups and Roma Vintage, near Terme di Caracalla, will be playing, you guessed it, the very best of the 1970s, 80s and 90s.

For those just looking to dance, Rome’s discos and nightclubs take on a summer style with many opening all’aperto (outside) along the Tiber, and in parks such as Villa Borghese,  Stadio ai Marmi at the Foro Italico and EUR.

Photo from La Repubblica

Rome is only 20 minutes by train to the seaside, meaning the beaches and stabilimenti are competitive. Though Ostia may rank #1 for affordability and distance– only 20 minutes and 1 euro by local train- my top three and half  under-the-Roman-sun spots are:

Fregene and Maccarese, the posh cousins of Ostia, just a few miles north of Ostia. Fregene and Maccarese are known for having some of the nicest stabilimenti in the area– think billowing tents, candle light and music– which become evening (and often daytime) discoteche in the summer months.  The stabilimenti have music, dance floors, websites and even have wifi.  The restaurants that run up and down the area like La Baia and Scialuppa are beach gateways and known for their celebrity clientele so reservations must be made in advance.  Fregene and Maccarese are best reached by car.

Sperlonga, a beautiful beach community about ninety minutes south of Rome– halfway between Rome and Naples.  The beaches of Sperlonga are white and the sand sometimes whistles under your feet.  The stabilimenti are simple and relaxed, with epicurean fish menus.  But make sure to try  bufalo mozzarella if listed on the menu.  For those looking for more than just a tan, the gorgeous 1st century AD  Villa di Tiberio (a summer palace of Emperor Tiberius) sits on the water just below the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. To get to Sperlonga from Rome Termini , you must take a local train to Fondi (approximately one hour, cost 6.20 euro) and then local bus.

Santa Marinella, small beach town about 45 -55 minutes from Rome that is an age-old secret whose favorite sun bathers have included ancient Phoenician settlers, medieval rival families, Renaissance popes, fin de siècle literati and Dolce Vita celebrities like Ingrid Bergman and Roberto Rossellini.  To get to Santa Marinella, take a local trains (from either Termini, Trastevere and Ostiense stations) which depart every half hour and cost approximately 4.10 euro-  less than 10 euro round trip.  Make sure to purchase roundtrip tickets, as smaller stations like Santa Marinella do not tend to have reliable ticket machines.

Gelateria Round-Up

• Il Top del Gelato a Rome (The Best Gelato in Rome) by Tavole Romane (in Italian, but everyone speaks gelato, no?), April 2011
• Ice Ice Bay, Vice Gelateria by Katie Parla (May 2011). After being seduced by the photo (and yes, the words!), make sure to meander her website–  Parla covers almost all of Rome’s gelaterie in individual reviews.  Also, here is Parla’s 2010 role call of some of her Rome gelato spots.
• Le Petit France‘s March 2011 delectable review of Gelateria al Teatro- my favorite place for dark chocolate gelato.
• Nileguide’s  Eat Pray and Love Gelato Tour in Rome
• Tasting Rome, food writer David Lebovitz‘s Summer 2010 tour of Rome’s gelaterie
• May 2011 interview with food writer David Downie for his Terroir guides by Savory Girl who asks him about his favorite gelateria

Photo by LePetitFrance

The world of spas and “spa-ing” is vast and diverse.  In Rome, every variety of spa is accommodated- ersatz-Turkish, Thai, Maylasian, Chinese and Roman baths, baths built in and around actual ancient Roman sites, simple bath houses (i.e. sauna) and finally luxury baths whose ambience range from minimalist chic to grandiose.   When dedicating your time to a spa daycation, ambience must be the primary requirement.  Additional fundamentals include:  Distance, no more than 20 minutes, in traffic, from the city center and Mirage: location must give the illusion of “elsewhere” or else why go?

For my most recent spa daycation, I was looking for “Lap of Luxury”, and thus immediately headed to the Rome Cavalieri at the top of Montemario, rightly boasting the most beautiful of the entire Rome panorama.  Approximately 15 minutes from the city center, Cavalieri is Conrad Hilton’s dolce vita creation from the 1960s:  complete luxury in its 370 rooms (42 with private balconies), 3 swimming pools, clay tennis courts,  multi-million dollar private art collection and Rome’s only 3-star Michelin restaurant, La Pergola. But down to business, my only concern was the Grand Spa and all its amenities.

As a non-resident guest, access to the Grand Spa is  granted with an appointment for a treatment from the very banal eyebrow (or chest) waxing to the Grand Spa’s signature treatments– a delectable range of facials (using La Prairie products), massages,  holistic treatments et al.   Key to enjoying the Grand Spa and its treatments is to bask in its grandeur in its entirety– meaning that you should plan to arrive a few hours before your treatment.  

My usual program? A dip in  the indoor pool- thanks to its glass cupula, I enjoy natural light in any weather.  And then relaxation to the caldarium and saunas– the Turkish baths.  And then my favorite part of my daycation: an hour reading — preferably a period piece–on the heated chaise in the very imperial lounge.  In a sporty mood, I would have popped into the palestra.  Note to the all-business, all the time crew: there is a small, wifi-adapted caffè in the Grand Spa

Treatments and Aestheticians: the aesthetician staff in the Grand Spa are very polite, professional and well-informed on latest techniques, dos and don’ts and customer service.  The staff is multi-lingual and very helpful in making sure your experience is exactly what you are desiring–  there is no pressing need to hurry you or their service, an unfortunately feeling I’ve had at other spas.   One of the treatments I chose was the Ritual Treatment, an 80-minute almond oil, cocounut oil and karitè butter massage which relaxed every muscle and my brain.  After the massage, my aesthetician shared some aromatherapy scents and invited me to a refreshening hot tea.  Overall, it was a multi-sensory experience that left my mind rejuvenated and my entire being recharged for my reintro into Rome.  Though I had only disappeared a few hours, it felt like months.

Transport Tip: The Cavalieri Rome is located in the Montemario area of Rome, between the Prati and Stadio neighborhoods.  Though Rome’s public transport will take you within short walking distance to the hotel, I would suggest budgeting in taxi fare for your trip home after your luxe treatments.

Photos by Musei In Comune